LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 

('hap._..y._.^ Copvris^ht No. __._._. 
SheJf..l\.5. 

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 



/ 



THE FIRST BELGIAN HARE 

Course of Instruction 

Twenty Lessons* 

Complete Directionsfor Buying, Sheltering, Breeding 
Killing, Skinning, Dressing, Tanning, Capon- 
izing, Cooking, Curing Ailments, Ex- 
hibiting, Judging, Shipping, De- 
veloping a Business, Etc. 

With a History of the Belgian Hare Compiled from All Sources, 

-AND- 

Actual Experiences of Successful Breeders Everywhere, 
TOLD BY THEMSELVES. 

REVISED EDITION. 



Entered according to Act of Congress in the Year J 900, 

by the New England Belgian Hare Company, in the 

Office of the Librarian of Congress, 

at Washington. 



ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 



BOSTON, MASS.: 

NEW ENGLAND BELGIAN HARE COMPANY, 

1900. 



JLibrtiry o« Cotturcoa, 

1 1 WO Copies Received 1 
JAN 22 m\ I 

Copyright entry 

SECOND COPY 



5F45 5 



SPECIAL NOTICE. 

In order to protect this Course of Instruction ac 
thoroughly as possible, we have designated by num- 
bers the experiences furnished by breeders. We shall 
be glad to furnish a key giving the names of these 
breeders, with their addresses, on request from those 
who buy Belgian hares of us. 

NEW ENGLAND BELGIAN HARE COMPANY. 



COURSE NO. B. 



LESSON ONE. 

Introduction 

Need of Instruction Apparent to All — Recourse Had to Suc- 
cessful Breeders Everywhere — Trustworthy Advice from 
Old Breeders in England — Most Space in This Course 
Given to American Breeders and Their Ways — Special Ef- 
fort to Make the Course Thoroughly Practical — No Disa- 
greement Among Experienced Breeders — Breeders Should 
Organize for the Good of the Industry. 

NEED of instruction in the breeding of Belgian liares is 
apparent to all, whether beginners, dealers, or those 
breeders who, by experience more or less costl.v, have 
learned what might have been theirs at the start, had 
not the industry then been in a new and unformed state. 
The ground has been gone over by so many that it would 
be a pity if the beginner could not have the benefit of their 
experiences, yet, with the exception of this First Course of 
Instruction, there is nothing of any kind — outside of trade 
catalogues, a few pamphlets, and the columns of the nevvs- 
papers and pet stock journals — of a nature to be of help to 
the beginner or the expert, and such of the latter-named 
sources of information are not available unless one has the 
means to buy, the patience to collect, and the time to read 
and reflect upon all the various scattered articles. 

In compiling this Course ot twenty lessons, the plan has 
been to secure a reliable, authoritative and indispensable 
guide for all breeders of Belgian hares, whether beginners or 
not, and first and foremost, in gathering the facts, recourse 
was had to successful breeders everywhere, as the ones best 
fitted to give advice. These experiences are given word for 
word as written or talked by the breeders. The experiences 
chosen cover every field of the subject, and in presenting 
them an effort has been made to explain in detail the points 
which prove most perplexing to the young student as v/ell 
as the points sought after by the adept. 
The Belgian has made great progress in this country, but 
it should not be forgotten that the industry had its birth in 
Europe, and it is principally to the breeders of England that 
we must look for the most truatworthy advice concerning the 
care of rabbit stock. The rearing of rabbits has been com- 
mon in England for many years; there are gray-headed men 
in that country who have raised prize rabbits all their lives, 
and their fathers have raised before them, and in this Course 

3' A 



of Instruction these practical English breeders have been ap- 
pealed to freely. As the Belgian hare is a rabbit, and as all 
rabbits have practically the same nature, and thrive on the 
same food, and by the same methods of feeding, the com- 
piler feels that no apology is needed for giving students the 
material furnished by the best English breeders. As the 
climatic and other conditions in this country are different 
from England's, greater space in this Course is given to the. 
American breeders and their ways, and we think this fea- 
ture will be found of especial value to the American breeder 
who is starting in the industry. The credit for the commer- 
cial development of the Belgian is to be given to this coun- 
try, and as that side of the subject is of gi'eatest importance, 
a special effort has been made to make the Course practical 
and of interest to those who wish to raise Belgians for profit, 
as well as to those who desire merely to raise pet or purely 
exhibition stock. 

It has been stated by persons of limited observation and 
experience that there is considerable disagreement as to the 
proper food, mating and judging of Belgians, but this is not 
so. When the views of the experienced breeders are col- 
lected and compared, as they are in this Course, there is 
found to be no essential disagreement, except in minor mat- 
ters. In this Course the student will find a method of hand- 
ling which cannot fail to l>e successful. 

Every student, if he is encouraged to become a breeder, 
should make up his mind to help himself by helping others. 
He should join with other breeders and strive to further the 
advancement of the industry in every way. Belgian hare 
associations in every section of the United States either are 
formed or are being formed, snd the member is sure of find- 
ing companionship, and of receiving and giving information 
that will be of value. The quicker the industry is put on a 
solid footing, the better for all concerned. 

We shall be pleased to hear from our students, and to know 
their experiences, and to add such experiences to future is- 
sues of this Course, if any new points of value are brought 
out. Climate and food stuffs vary with latitude and longi- 
tude, and information bearing on these points will be grate- 
fully received. 

Boston, Nov. 1, 1900. 



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LESSON TWO. 

H i story 

The Belgian Hare is a True Rabbit — How Rabbits Differ from 
Hares — Sterile Mules Born from Mating of Rabbit and 
Hare — Leading Characteristics of the True Belgian — Im- 
portance of the Standard Being the Same Common Meas- 
urement Everywhere — Every Breeder's Personal 
Interest Dependent upon Uniformity — How the In- 
dustry is Founded on a Rock — Not a Fad — Terms of the 
Standard — What They Mean — What the Expression "As 
Possible" in the Standard Calls For — "Rufous" a Good Dic- 
tionary Word — The True Color Defined. 
THE Belgian hare is not a hare, but a rabbit. 
It has an outward resemblance to the hare in the 
respects of size, and color of fur. The size is large 
and "racy" and the fur is a similar sandy tinge, but 
there the likeness ends. 

The young of the hare are born perfect, with eyes open 
and fur on their bodies. The young of the Belgian, like the 
young of other rabbits, are born shapeless, blind, and almost 
naked. The wild hare gives birth to its young in a "form' 
on the surface of the ground. The rabbit gives birth under- 
ground, just as the Belgian would if many generations of 
captivity and nest littering bad not almost obliterated its 
burrowing tendencies. 

Its was supposed that the Belgian was a cross between the 
hare and the rabbit, but that supposition was demonstrated 
to be wrong by careful experiments in mating at zoological 
gardens in France and England. Young were born from such 
mating of the hare and the rabbit, but they were mules, and 
consequently sterile. The European rabbit fanciers are 
further advanced than any in this country, and began keep- 
ing records before our fanciers, and they are agreed that 
the story of the Belgian being a hare-rabbit, or a leporine, 
or leporide, is a story of the imagination, a myth. No breed- 
ers in this country ever have produced fruitful young by mat- 
ing the hare and the rabbit. They have taken the Belgian as 
thev found it in England, and developed it. The English 
prize-winning Belgian was ohimkier, and its meat was not 
so palatable, as the standard Belgian is to-day. The Ameri- 
can idea is to get a Belgian, that is, a rabbit, which will 
have the form and beauty nf the wild hare and the com- 
mercial, easy-breeding qualities of the domestic rabbit. The 

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true Belgian to-day, as developed in this country, has a racy, 
hare-like body and hare-like ears, and its meat does not 
taste like the meat of the common rabbit, but is an improve- 
ment. The great American demand for the Belgian has 
affected the English standard. Our buyers are making 
frequent trips to England to secure Belgians of the hare-like 
body and other characteristics demanded in this country, and 
the foreign breeders, eager to get a market by pleasing our 
buyers, are devoting all their energies to developing the 
kind of animals we want. Therefore the judges in this coun- 
try and England are getting together and agreeing in an un- 
mistakeable way upon all the points which may provoke 
controversy. The industry is yet in its infancy in this coun- 
try, and organization and ag»'eement on the standard are 
comparatively recent. It is important that the standard of 
Europe and America, and indeed, the whole world, be the 
same, else it will be no standard, or common measurement, 
and there will be no confusion. However, every breeder sees 
that his personal interest i*^ dependent upon uniformity, and 
his every expression is sure to be for a common standard. 

The Belgian hare is the most useful of rabbits, and that 
is why there is good reason for concentration of efforts in 
developing and beautifying him. Breeders of cattle seek to 
raise the kind that will give the most and richest milk, the 
most and best-flavored meat and the biggest and best hide. 
According to the same rea^^oning, the Belgian hare is being 
developed. Of all rabbits, the Belgian is the most nicely bal- 
anced with respect to pelt, smallness of bone and flavor of 
meat. 

Neither the Belgian hare, nor any other animal, would be 
bred in quantities on a large commercial scale simply for 
good looks, or adaptibility as a pet, but because it is useful 
as well as ornamental. 

The ultimate destiny of the Belgian hare is the table and 
the manufactory. 

That is why the Belgian hare industry is founded on a rock. 

If it were a fad, like the collection of rare coins, beautiful 
porcelain, tulips, or postage stamps, it would have died out 
long ago, to be engaged in only by people of wealth or leisure, 
or both, who are the favored few that can afford the aesthe- 
tic or the beautiful in preference to the useful. 

Just now, breeders of Belgians strive to keep them alive, 
because more breeders are coming forward all the time to 

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get stock for a start m business, and the only Belgians that 
find their way to the table and the hat and fur factories are 
those which are rejected for breeding purposes because they 
are faulty in color, markings, shape or breeding habits. 

A rabbit still larger than the Belgian may be obtained by 
crossing it either with the Patagonian, the Flemish Giant 
or the Lop-Bared rabbit, but what is gained in weight is lost 
in extra weight of bone, quality of meat and good looks, or 
non-conformity to the accepted standard, the color being 
faulty, or something else being the matter. Still, the critic 
may say. it has more meat and a bigger pelt than the true 
Belgian. Nevertheless, breeders have agreed not to sacri- 
fice the beautiful hare-like shape and handsome color of the 
true Belgian. 

This standard should be firmly fixed in the mind, for it is 
the foundation of the Belgian hare business. It is like a foot 
rule with which a man starts to build machinery. If foot 
rules were of different lengths, objects made by one workman 
would not fit into places constructed by others, and chaos 
would result. If each section of the country had its own 
way of measuring, or judging, Belgian hares, then claims, 
terms, price-lists, arguments, etc.. would not mean the same, 
and ambiguity and deception would follow. So a standard 
li.as been agreed upon, and it finds expression as follows, in 
condensed form: 

COLOR — Rich rufous red (not dark, smudgy color) car- 
ried well down sides and hindquarters, and as little white un- 
der jaws as possible 20 

TICKING — Rather wavy appearance and plentiful.... 15 

SHAPE — Body long, thin, well tucked up fiank and well 

ribbed up; back slightly arched; loins well rounded, not 

choppy; head rather lengthy; muscular chest; tail straight, 

not screwed; altogether of a racy appearance 20 

EARS — About five inches long, thin, well laced on tips and 
as far down outside edges as possible; good color inside and 

outside and well set on 10 

SIZE — About eight pounds 5 

EYES — Hazel color, large, round, bright and bold 10 

LEGS AND FEET — Fore feet and legs long, straight, 
slender, well colored and free from white bars; hind feet 

as well colored as possible 10 

CONDITION— Not fat. but flesh firnk like that of a race- 
horse, and good quality of fur 5 

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WITHOUT DEWLAP— 5 

TOTAL 100 

DISQUALIFICATIONS—!. Lopped, or fallen, ears. 2. 

White front feet or white bar or bars on same. 3. Decided- 
ly wry front feet. 4. Wry tail. Note: A specimen should 
have the benefit of any doubt. 

The foregoing needs considerable explanation to the be- 
ginner. 

First, the color. It is lot "rufus red," but rufous. R-u- 
f-o-u-s is a good dictionary word. Webster says it comes from 
the Latin rufus (fox) and defines it as follows: "Reddish; 
of a yellowish red or ^u'ownish red color; tawny." That is 
to say, the true Belgian is colored something like a fox or 
a lion. There is quite a difference in color between the fox 
and the lion^ and the rufous color is a compromise. The 
"ticking" makes a difference in the outward appearance, 
also. By ticking is meant the black ends of the hairs. If 
we examine a hair from the back of a Belgian, we will find' 
the end tipped with black. So when the ticking has a wavy 
appearance and is plentiful, as the standard calls for, the 
animal has a blackish, as well as a tawny appearance, the 
black being distributed in waves. You might think of the 
waves of the ocean having a red body, with a black surface 
where they break. The "whitecaps" of the waves of the 
coat of the Belgian are black. Get that picture fixed in your 
mind and you will have no difficulty in understanding what 
"ticking" is, and how it should look. 

Second. Ears that iire "well-laced on tips" are ears on 
which the black hairs run down something like the way a 
lacing runs down a shoe. It is another way of saying that 
the outside edges of the ears should be black, as if an artist 
had shaded them with a pencil. 

Third. Dewlap. Shakespeare, you remember, said: "On 
her withered dewlap pour the ale/' giving a burlesque refer- 
ence to the fiesh upon the human throat when flaccid, or 
flabby, with age. As usually applied, dewlap means the 
pendulous skin under the neck of the ox, which laps or licks 
the dew, in grazing. 

If a specimen has any one of the four disqualifications men- 
tioned, it is not good ^'or breeding and therefore is regarded 
as worthless, good only for meat and hide, and not worth 
judging for points. Wry (twisted, distorted) front feet or 
tail would be reproduced in the nrogeny. 

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The expression "as possible' in the terms of the standard 
will be puzzling to many. It may mean little or nothing. 
Really, it is intended to convey the thought that the rufous 
color would cover all the legs and the whole of the jaw, in 
an absolutely perfectly-colored specimen. 

The striking features of the Belgian are the hare-like 
shape and the rufous color. The term "rufous" may not be 
perfect, but it is better than "reddish-yellow," or "yellowish- 
red," which even more lack precision. 

Fix the foregoing first principles and definition of terms 
firmly in mind and you will be able to comprehend Intel I i 
gently the next lesson (,'n how to buy. 



LESSON THREE. 

How to Buy Intelligently 

Mail Order and Personal Examination — Easy for an Unprin- 
cipled Salesman to Palm Off an Inferior Belgian Before thj 
Eyes of His Customer — Mail Order Method Thoroughly 
Safe if the Seller is Trustworthy and Has a Record for 
Square Dealing — Responsible Advertisers Will Give Full 
Value and Please Their Customers — The Most Desirable 
Belgians Are Imported — Our Most Experienced and Re- 
sourceful Buyers Making Frequent Trips to England — Re- 
member That the Label Does Not Make the Goods — The 
Foolishness of Depending Upon Scores, Which Are Usu- 
ally Only a Device of Swindlers to Sell Worthless Stock — 
Mercenary Judges — What Constitutes a Good Judge — Do 
Not Forget You Are Buying an Animal as Well as a Pedi- 
gree — Start with as Good Stock as You Can Afford — Bel- 
gians Healthy When Shipped Usually Will Remain 
Healthy. 

HAVING become interested in the Belgian hare business, 
and desirous oi engaging in it, the beginner will look 
around for stock, and he will need help on how and 
where to buy. 
There are tv/o ways of buying: First, by mail; second, by 
personal examination 

PJ^erybody can form his or her own opinion of what he sees 
and handles. By comparison and asking questions, you can 
get good results, and at the same time you take full responsi- 
bility. Still, shrewd and unprincipled salesmen have no diflfi- 
culty in palming oft inferior goods of all kinds on innocent and 
credulous shoppers. They can make a sale to some foolish 
persons by enthusiastically claiming that this or that article 
is "fashionable," or they can convince others by the same glib 
tongue that slocks or" a worthless company are going to pay 
dividends. The shrewdest of the confidence men depend upon 
meeting their victim personally for success. They fail when 
they write letters. The hypnotic influence of personal contact 
is missing from a letter. 

So in many respects the mail order method of buying Bel- 
gian hares is to be preferred. At this time, and this stage 
of tae business, it is almost necessary, for the reliable breeders 
are scattered. A beginner who makes up his mind to buy only 
after personal examination will find himself compelled to 

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make a railroad journey at more or less expense and loss ol 
time, and even then he may be disappointed, for he will not 
wish to go home empty handed, and may "take anything" to 
have something to show for his pains. 

In ordering by mail, there are many advantages in favor of 
the buyer, now. In the first place, the postal laws of the 
country are so strict that a swindler cannot conduct a business 
from his attic lodging room, hiring a cheap postoffice box, and 
giving nothing for the money of his dupes, without being 
brought up with a round turn. There are some swindles 
which the law cannot reach, but they are simple, for instance, 
the sale of a "diamond" for fifty cents. The swindler has a 
right to call his diamond a fanciful name, and may sell it, but 
only the young, foolish and credulous, or people looking for 
sometiiing for nothing, buy it. A person with any sense 
knuv/s that a diamond cannot be bought for fifty cents. There 
are always plenty of people looking for something for nothing, 
and on this class the mail order sharper plays, getting as 
close to the line as he can. If these people will stop for a 
moment and consider that all business is entered into for the 
sake of a profit somewhere, they will see the utter absurdity 
of getting sometiiing for nothing. 

Another safeguard is the newspapers and other periodicals 
in which Belgian hare dealers advertise. Most of them will 
not tiike advertisements from an irresponsible party. Some of 
them will refund to their readers money which those readers 
think has been taken from them unjustly by advertisers. Such 
periodicals make it a point to investigate the reliability and 
standing of every a,dvertiser who applies for space in their 
columns. 

Ad\ ertising is expensive, and as a rule, the Belgian hare 
dealers who advertise largely are responsible, having capital 
and business at stake, and dealings with them may be opened 
and carried on by correspondence with confidence. The buyer 
howe^er, should not be prejudiced against the small dealers, 
many of whom are handling choice stock and attending to a 
small business careiullj', and with a good knowledge of what 
they are doing. Some small dealers, having a fanciful concep- 
tion of the value of their pets, ask prices entirely out of pro- 
portion to the value of their stock. The large dealers, as a 
rule, know the state of the market and are satisfied with a 
smaller profit than those who have only a few Belgians. 

Do not forget that a reputable dealer in Belgian hares is 
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anxious to please you. A pleased customer is the best adver- 
tiseiment. If the buyer is not treated well by the dealer, he 
will tell his friends, and they will tell others, and tne whole 
neighborhood soon will be on guard against trading with the 
man who failed to please. Un the other hand, let a dealer be 
honest, and represent bis stock just as it is, and he will find 
orders coming in from people who have personal knowledge of 
hi,: squareness in treating others. 

Look out for the t: harper who is anxious to sell anything 
with four legs and a 'pair of ears that looks like a hare. The 
luospect of getting rich quick by selling all kinds of stock at 
)iigh prices teniptb the unscrupulous to dispose of anything. 
Be sure you get a sound, healthy specimen from a reliable 
dealer. 

We do not think it will be disputed by reasonable people 
that the most desirable Belgian hares are imported. You will 
find some dealers, however, arguing that the best stock is now 
in Southern California, and that the best American Belgians 
are superior to the best foreign Belgians. Most of those who 
argue in that way, however, are interested in selling hares of 
the description they praise. We do not wish to underestimate 
the American brea Belgian hare, but the fact that our most 
experienced and resourceful buyers are making monthly trips 
to England to buy stock is proof enough that the choicest Bel- 
gians come from there, especially when we know that an in- 
telligent market awaits imported Belgians. The prize-winning 
American specimens trace their ancestry back to England 
every time. P^ngland, Belgium and France are the starting 
places of all Beij;ian hare pedigrees, at the present develop- 
ment of the industry. Within a few years, at the present rate 
of progress, we shall not depend upon Kngland for the choicest 
color and shape, for it is all a question of wise breeding. 

It is not practicable for the beginner to import his own 
hares, if he is determ.ined to start with an imported sejection, 
but he can deal on this side of the Atlantic with an importer 
and accomplish his purpose just as well. 

Remember, in buying, that the label does not make the 
goods. An imported hare may be as worthless as the most 
worthless scrub in America. 

In buying, the test is, does the animal measure up to the 
standard stated and explained in the preceding lesson? The 
nearer it comes to scoring 100 points, the more valuable it is, 
provided, of course, that it is in a healthy condition, and 

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reared safely to maturity. 

Now a word about scoring. You might think you were quali- 
fied to be a good judge of points. You would take the hare out of 
the dealer s hutch, place it on a table, take out your pencil and 
notebook and mark up the points of the animal. Suppose you 
were generally pleased, and arrived at a score of 94. You 
might say you felt like buying the hare, and the dealer, if he 
wished to make a sale regardless of principle, might say: "You 
are right; it is a ,?reat hare; my judgment makes the score 95 
points. I think it is worth fully $100." 

You should ask the dealer what he means by "his judging." 
Some dealers ha^'e so-called "judges" of their own who, for 
some reason, probably because they are in the employ and pay 
of their patrons, put wonderfully high scores on Belgians 
belonging to said patrons, but remarkably low scores on the 
Belgians of rival dealers. Beware of such "judges." They 
are mercenaries and will put a score on an animal in propor- 
tion to the size of their fees. 

The true judge is a man of honor and principle, as well as 
extraordinary good judgment. He must not only be well- 
meaning and square in his dealings, but also of quick percep- 
tion, and skilled in the art of detecting tricks. The ideal 
judge would be a gentleman of culture, experience and stand- 
ing, financially entirely independent of the Belgian hare busi- 
ness. Such men are hard to find. An admirable substitute is 
the thoroughly reliable, trustworthy gentleman, poor, maybe, 
but determined to do the square and the honorable thing at all 
times. The best Belgian hare judges we have make a living 
this way: If they do not raise Belgians themselves, they may 
hire themselves out as judges, charging from $1 to as high as 
$15 for scoring a single animal. The wise judge demands his 
fee in advance before seeing the Belgian to be judged. In all 
cases, he is paid for his labor, not the size of his score. There 
shoul'j be no temptation for him to stretch his judgment and 
principles. 

We will have more to say about judges and judging in a 
special lesson. The point which we wish to make clear now, 
and to emphasize, is, that the buyer must make sure that the 
judge who scored the animal he wants was a reliable one, 
and that the points for which he is paying good money will 
maintain their value in fair competition. An exhibition under 
the direction of a reliable society is a good test. Belgians 
judged in such places, with full publicity and criticism, are 

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more reliable than those judged when not in competition. 

The Belgian hare associations will do their most important 
work in the registration of judges and pedigrees. The stricter 
the discipline and the surer the punishment, the more reliable 
will both judges and pedigrees become. 

Do not be fooled by pedigrees, and do not be guided wholly 
by them. You woula not feel cheerful to pay quite a sum for a 
wonderful pedigree, and find on getting your Belgian from the 
express company that it was a sickly animal which had con- 
tracted disease since the recording of its pedigree. Remember 
that you are buying an animal, as well as a pedigree. Moder- 
ate-priced Belgiai'.s give far more satisfaction, as a rule, than 
the fancy pedigreed. It is best to buy a dr.-^ (female Belgian) 
of fair score which has been bred to a buck of high score, than 
to buy a pair of fancy Belgians at a great price. 

Get a fair foundation and trust to yourself for improvement. 

You can improve your stock at any time by sending one of 
your best does away to be bred to a prize buck. 

Don't figure that you wiU put $100 into a doe and $100 into a 
buck, and that in six months you will have forty Belgians 
worth $100 apiece. Such reasoning may look all right on 
paper, but it is misleading. 

Start with as good stock as you can afford without using up 
all your resources. I.eave a little money for emergencies. 
Use ordinary business common sense. If you have only $10, 
and feel that you want to start, it is better to buy two bred 
does at $5 than one at $10. In the course of a few months, you 
will be able to sell meat stock enough to pay for a fancy buck 
or the fee of breeding a high-scoring buck to your best doe. 

If the Belgians which you have bought have been exposed 
during shipment to extraordinary variations of weather, or if 
they were shipped by unscrupulous dealers, they may have the 
snuffles (otherwise known as catarrh, or influenza) when they 
arrive. If they are running at the mouth, they have the slob- 
bers. If either nose or mouth is running, or the animals are 
sneezing, or refusing food, turn over these lessons until you 
come to the one on diseases, and you will see how to treat 
them. Belgians shipped by reputable dealers have neither the 
snuffles, slobbers nor pot bellies. If your purchase shows any 
bad symptoms, give the dealer the benefit of the doubt and by 
careful feeding for a lew days strive to cure, meantime writing 
the facts to the dealer of whom you purchased. As a rule, 
Belgians which are healthy when shipped will remain healthy. 

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The •i'xpress companies have no difficulty in handling them. 
The bhipper sends a bag of oats and hay with the box to the 
express company and during the journey the express com- 
pany's employes feed and water the animals. 

Do not be frightened if the does have a little dewlap, in some 
cases. Such does, it is found, make good mothers. The body 
should be long, and the back should rise in a well-moulded 
curve. The white belly should be well up, not pot or fatty, 
and the animal should have the clean lines suggestive of the 
thoroughbred race-horse. The startled look of the eyes is 
characteristic. The eye should be bright and bold. 

When you have ordered your stock, and are awaiting its ar- 
rival, you ought to be getting the box or hutch ready, and this 
will be the subject of our next lesson. 



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LESSON FOUR. 

How to Shelter 

Fundamental Rules — No Such Thing as a Self-Cleaning Hutch 
Some Hutches Are Easier to Clean Than Others, but in- 
dustry is Essential to Cleanliness — It is the Urine and Not 
the Dung Which Will Give Odor if Neglected — How to 
Make a Hutch Out of an Empty Barrel — Simplest Pattern 
of Hutch to Cost $1.60 — Need of Ventilation — Belgian 
is Hardy and Artificial Heat is Not Needed — Importance 
of Keeping Out the Winds and Snow — Hay Rack and 
Drinking Dishes — Latter Should Be of Porcelain — A Cheap 
Disinfectant — Object of a Hurdle — Sunlight Desirable, 
but Not the Hot Rays All Day Long. 

BEFORE your Belgians arrive, make ready a home for 
them. The interval of time between ordering and the 
receipt of the animals can be employed to good advan- 
tage in building a box or hutch. 

There are certain fundamental rules which must be fol- 
lov/ed, and observation of model rabbitries will convince one 
that the best breeders are agreed on a simple form of hutch 
for a unit which may be multiplied as many times as desired 
as t.h« Belgians increase in number. 

Do not be deluded into believing that you can invent a 
hutch that will be self-cleaning, or one that will do away with 
attention in the matter of cleanliness. Some amateurs have 
planned a hutch of a so-called self-cleaning pattern, the chief 
characteristics ot which are, first, a wire screen on which is 
laid the hare's bedding, and, second, a zinc-lined drawer im- 
mediately underneath into which the urine percolates and the 
dung falls. In practice, it is found that it is as much trouble 
to keep the zinc-lined drawer sweet as if the hare sat in the 
drawer, and besides, the animal's hocks are liable to become 
sore through coniact with the wire screen. 

Bear in mind that it is the urine, and not the dung, which if 
neglected, will give rise to a foul odor. The dung gives little 
or no trouble. When the Belgians are in their ordinarily 
healthy condition, it is hard and may be removed without diffi- 
culty. A thin layer of sawdust or dry sand, for the bot- 
tom of the hutcti, under the bedding, is best, to absorb the 
urine. It will be found that the animals will use a certain 
corner of the hutch, and efforts for cleanliness should be di- 
rected more particularly to this corner. 

A hutch may be made out of an empty barrel. For a make- 
1 D 



shift, at times, tliis ])arrel hutch may be easily arranged and 
will be found convenient. The barrel should have one head 
£olid, the other open. Lay it oq its side and raise it a foot or 
more from the ground by placing cradles at front and back, or 
Dy propping it up securely. To make the door, take a hoop 
from another barrel, ftt it so that it wnl be a little smalle? 
than me open end of the barrel, and tack across it wire net- 
ting, mesh not larger than one inch. Cut a strong piece of 
leather for the hinge and tack it at the top of the hoop and 
opening. Another piece of leather, with a nail, may serve as 
the fastener, placed at viie bottom of the hoop and opening. 
Nail two cleats to the inside of the barrel, about one-third 
the way up, and on these lay a light flooring, say one-half inch 
thick. The better the fit you give this flooring, the less trouble 
the barrel-hutch will be to care for. Make sure that the urine 
does not leak through the floor and form in a pool in the belly 
of the barrel. If there is any disposition of the water to 
gather there, a hole should be bored in the under side of the 
barrel. Used outdoors, such a hutch will not give a great deal 
of trouble, and is much to be preferred to the cramped, poorly- 
ventilated quarters wliich some beginners force their pets into. 
Except for young stock, however, unless it is a large barrel or 
cask, it will be found too small. 

A safe size for any hutch is two feet high, two and one-half 
feet wide and six feet deep; or, if the broad side is at the 
front (it is a matter of choice) two feet high, six feet wide and 
two and one-half feet deep. That gives room enough for the 
inmates to move about freely and take exercise, and provides 
space for the nest-box when the doe is ready to kindle. A dry 
goods box of this size may be fixed over to suit. The door 
should be of one-inch mesh wire netting and should be fas- 
tened so the Belgians will not push it open and fall out. 

No matter what you provide or .build, be sure it is off the 
ground, so as to keep out dampness, and have holes in the top, 
or at the tops of the sides, to let pure air in and bad air out. 

The following pattern of hutch 2x2i/,x6 feet is the simplest. 
It is of boards half way up the two ends and back, and wire 
above the boards. The nest box is in one end, size 12x12, the 
width of the hutch, with wire in front over nest box. The 
gate fills the entire balance of front. To build the hutch, cut 
two strips 1x2 inches, 6 feet long. Next cut flooring 2i/^ feet 
long. Lay strips on the floor and nail flooring to them, rip- 
ping last piece so that floor will be just six feet. The strips 

2 D 



should not be flush with ends of flooring by one inch. Next 
cut one piece of the i/^xl2 inch six feet long for back and two 
pieces of same 2914 inches long for ends. Nail the six foot 
piece to the two end pieces, being careful to have the bottom 
edges flush. Next lay this down with bottom edges up, then 
put floor on same, bottom up and nail, turn over and set 1x2 
inch posts 22 inches long in each corner. Then shim out the 
posts flush with back and end boards. Next put 1x2 inch strip 
clear around top, mitred at corners and nailed to posts. Next 
cut a piece of I/2XI2 inch stuff 291/2 inches long for top of nest 
box, and one 2V/2 inches long for side of same. In placing, 
nave ends flush with front (and cover against end posts) which 
will leave a crack one inch for ventilation to nest box. Set a 
post at corner of nest box 1x2 inches, sawed square at each end 
and railed from top to bottom. Use one-inch meshing wire 
twelve inches wide. At end opposite nest box, use a detached 
piece lightly tacked. For balance requiring the same width, 
one piece can be used. Make gate to fill balance of front of 
1x2 inch strips and 24 inch wire. Make door to nest box of 
1/^x12 inch stuff. Hutches should be made in pairs by placing 
nest boxes in opposite ends. Place two hutches six to twelve 
inches from floor with ends together, then two on these, and 
two more on these, and so forth. The top pair only will re- 
quire covering with Avire. Two hutches can be thrown into 
one cy removing wire at adjoining ends, leaving a hurdle in 
middle. A carpenter will readily understand these directions, 
and if he builds tiiein, they will cost about $1.60 each — $1.20 
for material and 40 cents for labor. 

Belgians may be kept out of doors all the year round, except 
m places where the thermometer remains below zero for days 
at a time. In winter it is necessary to give them plenty of 
warm bedding. In the Northwest, does have kindled in the 
coldest days of midwinter safely. The Belgian is a hardy ani- 
mal. If a poultry house is used, or an upstairs room, do not 
feel obliged to provide artificial heat, no matter where you 
live. Cold is not harmful, so long as there are no draughts. 
The sides of the hutch always should be closed at the bottom, 
if they are open at the top, so that the occupants will be pro- 
tected In wintei', a. strip of canvas or carpeting hung over 
the wire front of the hutch, to keep off the winds and snow, 
will be found ample protection. 

There should be a rack in each hutch for hay, and a feeding 
trough or dish, and water should be given in crockery dishes. 

3 D 



Do not use tin dishes for drinking water, except when shipping 
hares (when they are in use only a short time). 

The liutch should be cleaned and disinfected often, and regu- 
larly. A common and cheap disinfectant may be made by 
mixing a little Sulpho-Napthol with kerosene, and spraying 
the mixture on the floor and sides of the hutch. 

The object of a hurdle in a hutch is to give the Belgian some- 
thing to jump over so that its shape will keep racy and hare- 
like and its flesh "trained down." 

Set the hutch in a dry, cool place. Sunlight at certain parts 
of the day, but not the hot rays all the time, will do no harm. 



4 D 



LESSON FIVE. 

Experiences in Siieitering 

Outdoor Hutches Made of Ham and Bacon Boxes — No Need of 
Sloping Bottoms — Hutches in Double Tiers of Toy Boxes — 
How to Arrange the Kindling or Nest Box — Badly Ven- 
tilated Hutches Cause Snuffies — How to Keep a Hutch 
Sweet — Ventilation Should Always Be Above the Head of 
the Belgian — How p. Poultry House Was Remodeled — No 
Trouble in the Coldest Weather — Cut Fur from an Old 
Pelt to Give Doe for Nest — Light, Air and Ventilation Ab- 
solutely Essential to Health — How Foul Air "Banks Up" 
in a Poorly Arranged Hutch — Dry, Moderately Dark 
Houses Found Desirable — Cold, Crisp Weather No Reason 
for Keeping Bunny indoors — Change Hutches at Least 
Once a Week — Pure Water in Clean Dishes Essential — 
Wash Feet and Hindquarters if Irritated by Ammonia in 
Urine — Hutches Made of Packing Cases, and with Cur- 
tained Fronts, Which Are Found Ample Protection Out- 
doors in Winter — Snuffles from Too Close Housing — Bel- 
gian's Coat of Fur Adapted by Nature Periodically to the 
Climate. 
No. 101 — "My hutches (outside ones) are simply ham or 
bacon boxes. I use whole ones for my breeding hutches, and 
divide into two compartments, by means of a partition, for the 
use Oi two single inmates. I make m.y doors of solid one-inch 
matched flooring boards, and bore a row of three-fourths inch 
holes opposite the top of each compartment, in order to allow 
each occupant as much fresh air as possible. I place the ven- 
tilation holes at the top of the compartments so that the air 
will go in over, instead of at the inmate. For inside hutches, 
I simply build or partition next a wall. I allow each adult 
rabbit not breeding .SG inches by 20 inches, and 20 inches deep; 
for youngsters, Ave or six together, 36 inches by 36 inches, and 
20 inches deep, and for breeding does, about the same extent'. 
I do not use either false or sloping bottoms, but simply plain, 
smooth, pine ones. I provide my breeding hutches with nest 
boxes, of which the following are the dimensions: 15 inches 
long, G inches wide and 6 inches deep. By doing this, I can 
take the nest box out of the hutch bodily, either to examine 
the young ones, or clean the hutch out, which neither dis- 
turbs the old nor the young ones." 

No. 102 — "It has been considered by many ignorant people, 
not belonging to the fancy particularly, that any kind of 

1 E 



hutch, situated in almost any unhealthy corner, is good enough 
— which, in course ot time, turns out to be a great mistake. It 
should be remembered that human beings enjoy better health 
when their homes are made comfortable, in airy localities, and 
with plenty of ventilation; and this rule applies to the proper 
hutching of rabbits. I keep my rabbits in an outhouse. My 
hutches are in double tiers and are made of boxes in which 
toys are packed. 1 prefer these to bacon boxes, which are 
generally saturated with fat and salt, while toy boxes are 
made of good, clean wood and are free from unpleasant smells 
and dirt. These boxes are of various sizes, and if the fancier 
prefers to have his hutches made fixtures, he cannot do better 
than buy the large size toy boxes, which he can cheaply utilize. 
My hutches are movable. For single rabbits, a box measuring 
4 feet 10 inches long, S feet 4 inches high and 3 feet wide, can 
be divided by a wooden p.artition, and this would give suffi- 
cient room for two rabbits not used in breeding. The hutches 
for breeding are of the same dimensions, but without a divi- 
sion; and inside of these hutches I put a small box for a kind- 
ling box, while I have others of them with a little divisional 
breeding compartment at one end. But I like the former plan, 
because when you want to examine the litters of your breed- 
ing does a movable box is more convenient, as it can be lifted 
out of the hutch without much annoyance to the doe. These 
hutches have small-sized wire netting fronts, with one end 
fronted with wood, in order to make them a little darker op- 
posite the breeding box. When hutches of this description are 
made, they should be well white-washed inside; and after they 
have got saturated with excrement, the floor should be well 
washed with hot water and carbolic acid, and kept empty for 
a few hours until the odor of the acid has evaporated, when 
the hutch will be sweet again for the little tenants. The fan- 
cier should always place his hutches so that the north and 
east winds will be avoided, and to escape all draughts. In the 
winter, I have light wooden shutters, to reach within 6 inches 
or 8 inches of the wire-door top, sufficient to give plenty of 
fresh air; and an old sack may be nailed over the open part 
in any severe weather, taking care not to exclude the fresh air, 
which is highly necessary to promote health in the rabbitry. 
Badly-ventilated hutches are very injurious, and where too 
many rabbits are kept together the effect is fearful. I have 
known snuffles, or influenza, to arise from this cause, and the 
young fancier has been at a loss to know the reason, and in 

2 E 



maiiy cases rabbits have died by the score. Exposure to cold 
will bring on this troublesome disease, but rabbits kept in ill- 
ventilated hutches suffer the worst. I must not forget to re- 
mark that when any rabbits begin to creep out of their nest, 
I always fix a piece of thin wood inside the front of the hutch, 
and about six or eight inches high, just to prevent them get- 
ting through the wire meshes, or getting their heads fast, and 
hanging themselves. Finally, let me particularly advise 
young fanciers to give their rabbits plenty of hutch room and 
keep tliem clean, and, above all, let them have plenty of ven- 
tilation, for the latter is the grand secret of health in the rab- 
bitry." 

No. 103 — "To insure the health of the rabbits, hutches that 
are placed in so close a position as to destroy all chance of a 
free current of air passing through them, should be so ar- 
ranged that they can periodically be brought into the open air 
for a few days, and, if necessary, purified with an application 
of limewash, to which a few drops of carbolic acid have been 
added. ' If the hutch be one of a stack in an inside rabbitry, 
and is what may be called a fixture, then other means should 
be resorted to in order to make it properly sweet. Many 
things have been tried as purifiers and disinfectants, and per- 
haps those in the form of powder are among the best, although 
the liquids and carbolics are very useful, except that they add 
to the dampness of the floor for the time being. But if the 
rabbits are placed elsewhere, as they ought to be, until the 
hutches are dry, the objection will be removed. When the 
floors are washed with a solution of lime and water, and al- 
lowed to dry, they are then ready for use. Burning brown or 
any coarse paper in the hutch once a month will do much to 
remove any impure smells. There is no reason why any rab- 
bitry should not, with due care, be as free from disagreeable 
smells as any well-arranged stable in the care of a competent 
groom. After a hutch has been cleaned, a sprinkling of pine 
sawdust, which contains much turpentine, is useful, and acts 
as a disinfectant, to a certain extent. If the rabbits are kept 
in outside hutches, care should be taken to give them a south 
aspect, if possiole. As previously mentioned, shutters for use 
in the winter weather must be provided, and ventilation, which 
should always be above the head of the rabbit, must not be 
forgotten. The roof should be well slatted and pointed and it 
should project three inches at both front and back, as warmth 
is of great importance, and perfect protection from cold winds 

3 E 



must be secured. The projecting eaves greatly shelter the in- 
side of the hutch from driving rain and wind." 

No. 104 — "When we svarted in the Belgian hare business, 
we began in a small way one spring. When fall came, we had 
between 30 and 40 hares cooped up in covered wire runs, each 
about 12 feet square and three feet high, with a box inside 
about two feet square that could be used by hares when 
stormy, or by the does for nests. Later in the fall, as it began 
to grow colder, we were rather perplexed as to what kind of 
a rabbitry it was most advisable to build in which to winter 
the stock. We finally remodeled a poultry house in the fol- 
lowing manner: To begin with, the house was 21 feet long, 8 
feet wide, 5 feet high at the front, 7 feet high at the ridgepole 
and 6 feet high at the back; the board floor a foot from the 
ground, and the door at one end. next to back. We took the 
boards off the five-foot side and covered that side with our 
inch-mesh wire. We then made a second floor 2i/^ feet above 
the one already there. This second floor ran the length of 
the house, was 4V2 f^et wide and was made of matched boards. 
We partitioned off the two floors we now had and made 14 
pens, seven on a floor, each pen being 4^/^ feet deep and three 
feet wide at the open wire front, and 214 feet high. The parti- 
titions between the pens were boarded up for about a foot, and 
th rest was covered with one -inch mesh wire. In back of 
these pens we had left a space running the length of the house 
and 3y2 feet wide, where we could keep supplies. The doors 
in the different pens were made of a framework covered with 
wire. These doors were 2i/^ feet high and 3 feet wide, and 
opened into the alley way inside of the house. In each pen 
we had a nest box 12 inches wide and 18 inches long, with a 
hole about 6 inches square in one side. We use sawdust on 
the floors, cleaning twice a week, feed principally on second 
crop hay, oats and water, besides a few old vegetables. In 
this way, with an open front house, we wintered our stock, 
breeding the does every two months. They stood the two 
great storms and all the cold weather without any trouble, 
were never sick, and we lost only one or two very young ones. 
We think this shows pretty clearly that the Belgian hare is 
very hardy and will stand, and breed in very cold weather. We 
sustained no heavy losses until hot weather came, but even 
then we got along fairly well." 

No. 105 — "An inexpensive place may be provided by build- 
ing a frame shed if there is no old one that can be used. A 

4 E 



shed 10x20 feet is large enough for quite a number of hares. I 
have I'requently had as many as 60 old and young in one of 
that size. Some prefer a shed with three sides enclosed and 
open on the east, with a curtain to ^rop down when it is cold 
and stormy. A cheap hutch may be made by taking a large 
dry goods box, say about 3x4 feet, 2 feet high. Take out one 
side. Make a door about half the size of one-inch mesh poul- 
try netting. Let the door come clear to the bottom of the 
box so as to be easy to clean out the hutch, which should be 
done every two or three days. Inside of this large box put a 
small box 12xl4x'i0 inches for a nest box. In the back end of 
this cut a hole about 6 inches square for the doe to enter. 
This box should be put at the front of the hutch on the side 
not used for the door. Board up the half of the front beside 
the door with a small door into the nesu box so the nest can be 
got at readily. Give the doe plenty of good, clean straw about 
two weeks before she is due to kindle. She will build her nest 
with the straw and line it with fur pulled from her own body. 
Sometimes, if the weather is cold, they will not pull fur 
enough to keep the young warm, and they are chilled to death. 
After one has killed a hare for meat and saved the pelt, this 
can be remedied by cutting the fur from the dry pen. and put- 
ting it in the nest the day the doe is due. Many valuable lit- 
ters have been saved this way. These instructions are only 
for the beginner with but little money to start. A fancier 
with ample means at his disposal can build his rabbitry and 
hutches to suit his fancy." 

No. 106 — "Light, air and ventilation are the three require- 
ments absolutely necessary to life, vigor and health. And this 
applies to the Belgian hare as well as mankind, inoused in a 
small, dark, ill- ventilated bandbox with never a ray of God's 
sunshine, and most of the time rank with filth, is it any won- 
der that the owner spends half of his time dosing his hares to 
keep them alive?" 

No. 107 — "It is one of Ihe fundamental principles of venti- 
lation that air docs not circulate and flow freely from point to 
point unless openings are so arranged as to allow free ingress 
of air and a free outlet for air. To make it still plainer, the 
air in such a hutch simply banks up in the hutch and becomes 
and remains foul. If any one doubts this statement, let him 
simply place his head inside such a hutch, well towards the 
back wall, and breathe the air for a moment. He will be con- 
vinced in short order. The air soon becomes foul, and as it 

5 E 



has no means of purifying itself by a fresh current in any di- 
rection, It remains foul all the time. As further proof of this, 
observe your hares ia such a hutch. They lie close to the 
wire netting in front, and are trying to get a whiff of fresh 
air, which they stand so much in need of. The way to remedy 
this is to cut oft" the back wall of your hutcn about four inches 
down the back, beginning at the top and cover opening with 
wire, or arrange a door to swing down from top of hutch so 
it can be opened. As a matter of fact, it should remain open 
all the time. If the hutches are made of chicken wire all 
around, this objection does not hold. If, however, your 
hutches are made open all around and are exposed to cold, raw 
winds in open rabbitries, a fine crop of colds and pneumonia 
will be the result, and a full graveyard will be the outcome. 
Another objection to open rabbitries is the strong sunlight. 
Hares do better in dry, moderately dark houses, where they do 
noL get much light. The other method in vogue is the closed 
building, with hutches arranged to suit varying conditions of 
weather. These buildings should be arranged to suit the cli- 
matic conditions where the rabbitry is located. In the warm 
climates a building with good height if ceiling (ten feet is 
none too high to afford good ventilation), with a double roof 
(with air space between roofs) for free ventilation, without di- 
rect draughts, is the ideal home for the Belgian. Take your 
windows out of rabbitry entirely in summer on south side and 
east of rabbitry, replacing them with strong wire screens (not 
fly screens, but heavy screens such as banking rooms use) and 
these will admit plenty of fresh air, and keep out dogs and bur- 
glars. Then arrange outlets on the side walls near the ceiling, 
for the foul air. Remember, warm foul air rises, and if you 
get the currents of air going in the right direction, you will al- 
ways have fresh air, without draughts. Place the hutches out 
of the direct current of air, but where the air will sweep 
around them, and your bunnies will take on new life, and be as 
happy as clams at high tide. The same kind of house is appli- 
cable to the cold climate, with the addition that walls can be 
lined with paper in very cold weather, to keep out severe cold, 
but still arrange for ventilation even in cold weather. Bel- 
gians enjoy cold weather, even a temperattn-e of forty below, 
if kept in a dry, warm place, out of cold winds and rain. Make 
your runways partly outdoors and partly indoors, with a slid- 
ing door to close nights and other times when necesi?ary. 
Hares enjoy a run on the snow as much as the historical small 

6 E 



boy, and cold, crisp weather is no reason for keeping bunny in- 
doors, if the weather is dry, and not rainy. As to the hygiene 
of the liutch itself, there is a chance for great improvement. 
For the hutch made with a flat floor, straw as litter is best for 
warm weather, because bunny loves to brush the straw one 
side and stretch himself out at full length on the bare floor, 
it is cooler and he enjoys it very much. For winter, on the 
flat-floored hutch, a layer of clean sawdust with straw over 
that is the best. The droppings fall through the straw, and 
leave a clean, dry place. The sawdust alone soon becomes 
wet and dirty, and the animal is compelled to walk and lie in 
this dirty, wet litter. Change such hutches at least once a 
week. Take the hare out. Clean out thoroughly. Scrub it 
out with soap and hot water. Allow it to dry thoroughly, and 
then sprinkle some good disinfectant all over the side walls. 
Pure water is essential. Hares are great water drinkers. Have 
a nice, clean pail for watering your hares. Do not use the 
slop or mop pail to water them with and then wonder they are 
sick. Take your hares out of the boxes occasionally to see if 
they are ailing ia any way. Sometimes their skin gets dry 
and harsh and hide bound. Give them a little linseed meal 
once in a while as a tonic, to improve their coat and tone them 
up generally. Rab them down, and see if their fur is smooth 
and their skin in a healthy condition. Sometimes they sit in 
the wet straw and their little feet and hindquarters get irri- 
tated. Wash them off, and keep them clean." 

No, 108 — "We secured a large number of packing oases 
from the merchants of our city free of charge; the business 
men seemingly glad to have them taken out of their way. Of 
these boxes we used only the largest for hutches, 3x4 feet be- 
ing the size preferred, tearing the smaller ones to pieces and 
using the boards for roofing. After knocking out the front 
side of the box, a board one foot high was nailed along the top 
edge, and extending upwards. Boards were nailed to this, 
slanting back to the rear of the hutch, and this I'oof was cov- 
ered with tar paper, the roof boards being allowed to extend 
out from the hutch about one foot, both front and rear. This 
gives you a splendid tight roof for shedding the rain, and also 
a large air space between the two roofs. For the door, we se- 
cured pine strips 1x2 inches and made a frame over which was 
stretched one-inch mesh wire. This door is hung with com- 
mon strap hinges, and fastened with a button. Each hutch is 
also supplied with a heavy oiled muslin curtain, for cold or 

7 E 



stormy weather, which is fastened with buttons aud can be 
rolled up and fastened under the roof with a strap, similar to a 
carriage curtain. For the nest boxes, we used the smaller 
boxes gathered in our trips, such as those used for crackers, 
shoes, etc., about 12x18 inches, and a foot high. A board ten 
or twelve inches high, sawed from opposite corners, and nailed 
to the edges of the box, gives a nice slant. Near the top of the 
box proper are fasetned cleats on which a false roof rests, and 
in cold weather this space between the two roofs is packed 
tightly with hay or straw. The cover is made large enough to 
extend over the nest boxes two or three inches, and extends up 
under a one-inch cleat nailed to the hutch, to which it is 
hinged after beine: covered with tarred paper. The hutches 
are all provided with buttons, fastened to the side, for holding 
the feed and water dishes, and we find that this saves consid- 
erable in the cost of feed, doing awa,y with the loss necessi- 
tated by loose dishes being tipped over and the grain scat- 
tered in the litter For feed boxes we use cigar boxes, the 
shallow kind, and for water a small square baking tin. A 
small tin box, such as is used for high grade smoking tobacco, 
is nailed to the wall of each hutch and kept filled with rock 
salt. Our hutches are all made after this plan, and to say that 
we are well pleased with them is to express it mildly. In my 
mind, they are fully equal to the high-priced house, and in 
some ways far superior. It is a well known fact that Belgians 
will stand cold far better than heat, and with its curtained 
front this hutch is plenty warm enough for the most severe 
weather, and the double roof, with the air space between, gives 
a fine circulation of air continuously during the hottest days 
of summer." 

No. 109 — "It is quite plain to me that Minnesota breeders 
are too fearful lest their animals take cold, and are altogether 
too precautious about a little fresh air getting to them. I find 
doors at the rabbitries nearly closed all the time, all well as 
the windows, and one would think from the way a draught, 
however slight, is feared, that they were expecting a draught 
from Greenland would creep in upon them at any time if an 
opening were left. While we believe a certain amount of care 
should be given to Belgians on their arrival from the coast, yet 
the difference in climate is not so great as to necessitate the 
extreme precautions v>'hich we find everywhere. No wonder 
there are snuffles and sneezes, for where they are housed so 
closely the least draught causes them to sneeze, the same as an 

8 E 



infant that has been eared for in the same way and suddenly 
gets a breath of a nor'-west breeze. The sooner the breeders 
get the idea of the Belgian being a fur-bearing animal and not 
of necessity requiring a blanket at this season .of the year, and 
begin to give thero lots of air, in fact, better have a number of 
runways out doors, where a number can be put each day, the 
better prepared they will find their stock to stand our coming 
winter. We always have plenty of winter, and the idea of 
having pampered your Belgians to such an extent that our 
summer weather causes them to take cold if exposed in the 
least makes us smile when we think how they will shiver and 
shatter their teeth a few months later. Do these breeders pre- 
sume to think they are going to provide artificially heated 
quarters for their Belgians this winter? If so, I want to dis- 
courage this idea in every possible way. Isn't it ridiculous to 
suppose that a fur-bearing animal whose fur fulls, or sheds, 
according to the season, should require an artificially 
heated place of habitation in the Mdnter time? You will find 
that they will not thrive nearly so well under such conditions, 
as those who have houses, or hutches, built on a plan suitable 
to the winters we always have. Mark my prediction that an 
artificially heated rabbitry will be as conducive to snuifles and 
sniffles as a hen house on the same plan is to roup and swelled 
head, or similar diseases, because the fowls are made tender 
and subject to every little draught that creeps in upon them 
by being kept under conditions that are not natural." 



9 E 



LESSON SIX. 

How to Feed 

Belgians Have Gnawing, and No Grinding, Teeth — The Fun- 
damental Rule in Feeding — Secret of Successful Feeding — 
Green Food Does Not Mean Wet Food — Test of Proper 
Food is the Appearance of the Dung — Feed Twice a Day 
— Belgians Do Not Care to Eat All the Time — Evil Effects 
of Too Much Green Food — Do Not Feed Frozen Vegeta- 
bles — Neither Starve Nor Overfeed — Does in Breeding 
Must Not Be Allowed to Grow Too Fat — Feed Should Be 
Cleaned up at Each Meal — How and When to Give Water, 
Milk, Linseed Meal, Peas, Oats, Carrots, Hay, Potatoes, 
Brewers' Grains, Bran, Rice, Salt, Flour, Cabbage, Wheat, 
Oatmeal, Lettuce — How to Make a Good Condition Pow- 
der — Variety of Appetizing Food Will Result in Improved 
Condition. 

BELGIANS have incisor teethe and no molars nor grind- 
ers. They will eat almost anything in the way of field 
or garden stuff, green or cured. 

Here is the fundamental rule in feeding: 

Give plenty of hay and good oats daily, together with some 
green food. 

The' secret is, to balance the cured with the green food so 
that no trouble results. You will find some breeders of limited 
experience objecting to green food, but it is the abuse, not the 
use of green stuff that makes trouble. 

Green food does not mean wet food. 

By green food is meant uncooked or fresh-gathered stuff, 
such as carrots, celery, beets, turnips, turnip tops, cauliflower 
leaves, dandelion leaves, parseley tops, green clover, weeds, etc. 

Wet food of any kind, except damp meal mixtures (fed warm 
or cold) are poisonous. If you cut fresh hay, clover or garden 
tops, or fresh feed of any kind, be sure it is dry when you feed 
it. Don't have a particle of moisture in it. Let all the dew 
and rain evaporate before you place anything inside the hutch. 

The test is the appearance of the dung. If it is hard and 
comparatively odorless, everything is well with the feed. If it 
is soft and foul smelling, there is too much gi'een food. 

Fall back solely on oats and hay when the condition of your 
Belgians gets ott', and feed the meals and brans which you will 
find described later on. 

Feed twice a day, night and morning. Do not throw in food 
every time you go to the hutch. Place the hay in the rack, 

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giving enough to last two or three hours. Give oats in the 
proportion of one handful to each. Belgians do not care to 
eat all the time. After the morning meal they will rest quietly 
until late in the afternoon. Give the second feed between 6 
and 7 o'clock. Sunrise and sunset are good feeding times. 
Some breeders feed three times a day, but the great majority 
advocate two. It is less trouble to feed two, and the nature 
of the animals is to need rest through the day, especially dur- 
. ing the summer months. They suffer on hot days. When 
evening comes they become frolicsome, the mother feeds her 
young, and they exhibit all the characteristics of twilight 
prowling animals. 
Too much green food will cause slobbers, and pot belly. 
Don't feed frozen carrots, beets, cabbages, or other frozen 
vegetables. They are sure death to young Belgians. 

For meat, feed oats in the morning and a mixture of four 
parts corn shop to one part bran at evening. 

Don't overfeed, and don't starve. It is better to give them 
too little than too much. You can tell by watching their appe- 
tites. 

Does in breeding must not be allowed to get too fat, or their 
littering will be a failure. Hay should be kept from them for 
two days before they give birth to their young. 

Pea vines, including the pods, are relished, and are healthy. 
Pea vine hay can be raised anywhere, and where many Bel- 
gians are bred it is a sensible and cheap food. 

Don't feed so plentifully that the bottom of the hutch will 
be littered with scraps. The Belgians are dainty and will not 
eat food that they have stepped on or befouled, or which has 
been allowed to remain in the hutch. Before each meal, clean 
out the old food, and let the new supply be fresh and appe- 
tizing. 

WATER — Clear, cool vater is never harmful. The dishes 
should be rinsed and filled with a fresh supply at each feeding 
time. A dish of cold water is a preventive and cure of diar- 
rhoea, in nine cases out of ten. A little nitre added to the 
drinking dish is an added help in diarrhoea. Give the drink- 
ing dishes a thorough scalding and drying once a week, and 
use earthenware dishes. Always keep plenty of water before 
the doe at kindling time, or she will destroy her young to allay 
the intense, gnawirg thirst which comes upon her at this time. 
MILK — Bread and milk is a good dish for nursing does, 
but it should be fed sparinglv. Avoid the plentiful feeding of 

2 F 



milk to all Belgians, young or old. Young Belgians fed on milk 
from cows that are on a diet of ensilage will be attacked with 
diarrhoea and die, usually within two days after the diarrhoea 
begins. Be careful of the quality of the milk at all times and 
let the dish containing it stay only a short time in the hutch, 
so as not to absorb foul odors. Milk takes up foulness quicker 
than water. Scald and keep scrupulously clean all feeding 
dishes used for milk. 

LINSEED MEAL — An excellent condiment is made as fol- 
lows: Take one pound of linseed meal which has been 
crushed in its own oil and mix it thoroughly with eight pounds 
of any other good mea), say barley or corn, together with one 
ounce of gentian, one ounce of nitre and two ounces of aniseed. 
Mix with water into thick, damp (but not sloppy) paste, and 
feed twice a day, giving each time as much as they will eat, 
removing what they leave as soon as their appetites are sated. 
This condiment is a tonic, makes their coats glossy and 
smooth, clears their kidneys, produces milk and gives a good 
appetite. 

PEAS — Uncooked peas are a good flesh-producing food. 
Use always the gray peas, not the white ones. The dung of 
Balgians fed on v/hite peas is pasty and foul. Continued use 
of the white peas will result in diarrhoea. The gray peas 
should be covered with water for a day and a night, then 
rinsed with fresh water, drained and set away to remain until 
they begin to sprout. Then they may be fed, a handful to 
each Belgian, night and morning. 

OATS — These are a staple article of diet. For young Bel- 
gians they should be the crushed variety, so as to be more 
easily assimilated. 

CARROTS — An excellent food. They are fed uncooked. 
They are especially good when the doe is suckling her young, 
as they aid the secretion of milk. 

HAY — Clean clover, or timothy, or alfalfa (common in Cal- 
ifornia, Texas and the Southwest) are good foods. Put a 
bunch in the hay rack right and morning. Do not use hay 
for bedding, if you have sawdust and straw. 

POTATOES, potato parings — The potatoes must be well 
boiled in every case. Do not feed raw potatoes. The wa- 
tei should be thoroughly drained out after boiling. Mix the 
damp potato, crushed, with parings and Indian meal. Feed 
not oftener than once every four or five days. 

BREWERS' GRAINS — Thoroughly dry them and mix with 
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meal of some kind. The sugar in them helps to fatten. 
Don'i feed too many, or ihey will sour on the stomach. 

BRAN — Use little of this, as it does not have much nour- 
ishment. It may be mixed v.uth meal. 

RICE — Should be boiled and allowed to stand until it is 
cold and with the least amount of moisture — dryer than when 
usee on the table. Should not be fed more than once in 
ten days. Some Belgians will eat it, others will not care for 
it. 

SALT — Keep a piece of rock salt hung up in the hutch 
within reach of their tongues, or on a little shelf in a corner, 
or in a small box. Occasionally soak their oat and meal 
foods in salty water. 

FLOUR — Mix a little with meal food if bowels are loose. 

CABBAGE — Green, uncooked leaves fed now and then are 
relished. Do not feed too much of it. 

WH£AT — Crushed wheat is a safe food. 

OATMEAL — Good food at all times. 

LETTUCE — Green lettuse leaves, fed sparingly, may be 
used to vary the diet. Don't feed lettuce leaves after the 
seeds have begun to sprout on top. This lettuce gone to 
seed has a stupefying effe(^,t on them. 

Make an effort to give your Belgians a variety of appetiz- 
ing food. Th^^ir improved condition will well repay you. 



4 F 



LESSON SEVEN. 

Experiences in Feeding 

Green Tares a Good Food — All Roots Should Be Carefully 
Washed and Dried — A Good Paste to Feed Night and 
Morning — Cold Water a Cure for Diarrhoea — Bread and 
Milk for Nursing Does — Salt is Essential — Boiled Flaxseed 
Mash — Green Food, Except Carrots, Affects Milk of Does — 
A Partitioned Trough to Prevent Young Rabbits from 
Pushing Each Other Away — Feed No Damaged Hay or 
Grain — A Good Diet Table, Giving a Safe Variety — Need 
of a Warm Meal Frequently — Soaked Peas Do Not Agree 
with All Belgians — Extravagant Variety of Food Not Es- 
sential to Success — Hemp Seed Will Make Coats Glossy — 
Do Not "Coddle" Your Belgians — Red Poppy a Splendid 
Food — Chicory and Comfrey the Best All-Round Foods — 
Sulphur Needed Occasionally — Pea Vine Hay Superior to 
Alfalfa — Young Begin to Eat Food in About 2 1-2 to 3 
Weeks — Excess of Cabbage, Lettuce and Turnip Tops to 
Be Avoided — Avoid All Sloppy Foods — Success in Feed- 
ing Only Once a Day — How to Prepare Bran with Corn 
Meal — How to Prevent Waste of Food — Best Food Not the 
Most Expensive — Real Secret of One Breeder's Success 
in Feeding — Green Food Entirely Avoided in One Case, 
but Fed Plentifully in Another — Rules of a Leading 
French Breeder — A Porridge to Offset the Use of Too 
Much Green Food — Excess of Dry Food Harmful — Young 
Rabbits' Teeth Not Strong Enough for Whole Oats or Bar- 
ley — Amount of Corn to Give Young Rabbits — Apples and 
Pears Not Advisable for a Regular Food — Southern Black 
Cow Pea Hay Used with Success. 
No. 200 — "I keep mine upon the best food obtainable, 
namely, oats, sweet hay, dry clover, swedes, carrots, sprouted 
gray peas, sow-thistles, df.ndelions, green tares, and I con- 
sider the above by far the best of all kinds of food for rab- 
bits in every variety. Swedes never scour (produce diar- 
rhoea) ; carrots are capital diet for improving the condition 
of the fur, producing a silky, glossy appearance to the coats, 
and should be given sparingly when moulting or shedding 
the fur. Does, in a few days after eating sprouted peas 
freely, will be ready for pairing. I like sow-thistles for 
does and young ones, as they contain a quantity of juice or 
milk. They should be given two or three times daily, fresh 
and sparingly. Green t^rpp T highly approve of, for milch 
1 G 



doet and their offspring especially, and I consider that, pro- 
vided they are fresh, n>'t wet, they are the best of green 
meav for producing nourishing milk, but they should be given 
sparingly night and morning, or, if possible, even three times 
daily. All roots should De carefully washed and wiped quite 
dry, or diarrhoea may soon set in. Should that appear, a 
dish of cold water should be at once placed in the hutch and 
replenished twice daily. It is a positive cure. It will cure 
95 per cent, of the patients so treated. Plenty of clean sweet 
ha J', dry clover and oats, and a little barley meal mixed with 
warm water into a firm, thick paste should be supplied. But 
no other food must be given for a week at least after ihe 
attack has ceased. The above is well worthy of every rab- 
bit fancier's attention. I cannot too strongly recommend 
such a valuable remedy, as its result is the most certain 
known. I have spent a little fortune over my animals, and 
have come to a decided opinion that, except in cases of 
diarrhoea — when, as I have said above, water is a certain 
cure — ill specimens are best killed at once, as, though you 
may save an occasional one, you run the risk of losing many 
others from their taking the disease. Linseed meal crushed 
in its oil, say one pound, Avell mixed to eight pounds of best 
barley meal (or any other good meal) with aniseed two 
ounces, gentian one ounce, nitre one and one-half ounces, is 
my favorite condiment. Mix it into a thick paste and give 
it to the rabbits night and morning, as much as they will 
eat. It produces milk, it is most nourishing, it tends to 
produce coats glossy and smooth^ it acts upon the kidneys, 
thus preventing colds, and lastly, it causes a good appetite, 
as it is sweet and bitter, vith tonic qualities. A day or two 
before the does are due to kindle I like to place a pan of 
cold water in the extreme end of their hutch from the bed 
compartment, as they experience great thirst about their la- 
bor time, and will drink most freely of water, and this simple 
precaution will frequently prevent their eating their off- 
spring." 

No. 201 — "My idea of feeding is as follows: First and fore- 
most, regularity is of the utmost consequence. I feed twice 
a day — in the morning v.ith whole oats and green food, 
swedes or turnips in the winter months, and at night I give 
meal mixed up with hot water into a stiff paste. They must 
be kept in a cool place, for if you keep them in a hot rab- 
bitry they will never do well, and will be far from healthy. 

2 G 



I always keep mine in a cool place, out in the yard — with 
just a wooden covering over the top of the hutches — and 
where the sun cannot reach them, so that I keep them very 
cool." 

No. 202 — "Malva and green alfalfa are good for nursing 
does if they are accustomed to green food, but don't give too 
much. If the doe is poor, a little bread and milk is the best 
thing for her. Of course, the milk must be sweet. A nursing 
doe should always have a plentiful supply of clean food in 
her hutch. Oregon oats I prefer to any other grain, but 
wheat is good for a change, and so is rolled barley, but too 
heating in summer. Youngsters at two weeks are very 
fond of rolled oats or wheat, and it is very good for them. 
They will soon learn to eat almost everything, enjoying car- 
rots at three weeks of age. Do not feed too much green 
stuif, unless they come from stock accustomed to be fed on 
it. After weaning them, give bread and milk if possible, 
for a week or so at least, and the warm morning mash and a 
little well cured hay. Bread and milk is certainly the best 
of food for a nursing doe and her young. Never let it sour 
in their pens. Every rabbitry should keep a cow. It would 
ada considerably to the health and strength of the stock. 
Salt is essential to rabbits. It should either be given in their 
water once a week, or a piece of rock salt should be hung up 
in each hutch, so that they can help themselves if they need 
it, or the grain may be soaked in salt and water and then 
put on trays to dry before using. Some rabbits are raised 
entirely on malva and green stuffs, but I would not advise 
you to feed it to fine stock unless it is accustomed to it. It 
produces slobbers in the young very often. A good warm 
mash for Belgians is made by mixing boiled flaxseed with 
sufficient feed meal and bran so that it will crumble in your 
hand. Add a little salt. Rabbits do not like any sloppy 
food. Give them only what they will eat up clean. If any 
is left over, it should be removed before it sours." 

No. 203 — "I do not advocate much green food, except car- 
rots, during the time the young are suckling, as it often 
affects the milk, and deranges the bowels of the young, 
hence so many deaths tli rough scours. Let the young stay 
with the doe until they are six or seven weeks old, and let 
the doe rest two or three weeks to recover her strength be- 
for breeding again, rearing and feeding. At six or seven 
weeks I take away my >oung and place them in a large 

3 G 



hutch, and give them crushed oats, milk and bread, barley 
meal paste, and carrots occasionally, until about three 
months old. then I allow them the same diet as the older 
ones, which consist of oats, carrots, swede turnips, dande- 
lion, sow-thistle, clover, tares, hare parsley, acorns and bar- 
ley meal paste mixed with crushed linseed. I always feed 
twice a day about 8 o'clock in the morning and the same 
time in the evening, and those which have not quite eaten 
all up get.no more until Ihe next meal. For my young rab- 
bits I use a ti'ough with five partitions from the edge of the 
dish to the cylinder, so that when they are feeding they do 
not push one another a\vn,y, but each rabbit has just room 
fcr its own head. I also prefer a lid on the top, as it pre- 
vents the young ones getting inside and injuring themselves, 
and thus often saves the fancier much anxiety and loss." 

No. 204 — "Feed no damaged hay or grain, nothing but 
clear, bright hay and somd, plump grain. Don't keep old 
does to take up room at three years of age; their usefulness 
is about over. Do not feed all they will gorge of cabbage. 
It will bloat the old ones and give the young ones scours. 
Dampness and dirt is a Belgian's worst enemy. Avoid these 
and many difficulties will be overcome. Watch for barren 
does, but don't give them up too soon, some prove in the end 
to be excellent breeders. Do not forget to feed salt. We 
would soon crave it if deprived the taste of it for an indefinite 
length of time. Cottonwood branches and leaves are well 
Kked by the hares, and must be beneficial. They seem to 
crave something bitter." 

No. 205 — "After the young Belgians are taken away from 
their mother, they require a loft or large space to run in. to 
enable them to stretch their legs and get themselves into 
that so-called hare-like form. A great many may be turned 
together, up to about four or even five months old; but they 
must be watched, or a few pugnacious ones will set the whole 
of them fighting, whereby many a valuable specimen will be 
damaged. As to feeding, I do not know that it ought to 
dilffer from that given to other varieties; but as they are 
required to keep racy and in muscular condition, I would 
suggest that, instead of much corn, a chemical food which I 
have lately adopted and Vv'hich answers admirably, should be 
given, in which case you will be able to develop muscle 
without the usual fattiness so often noticed in exhibition 
specimens. Belgians require more time to develop than any 

4 G 



other variety; many a promising youngster is got rid of 
which, if kept through the first or second moult, would make 
fi good specimen. Rabbits showing decided imperfections, 
such as white on legs or feet, very gray coat, void of or little 
ear-lacing, coarse, thick ears or any trace of white on nose, 
may be destroyed as soon as ready for market or the pot." 

No. 206 — "The following will make a good diet table for 
oidinary purposes, bui of course it may be varied according 
to the resources of the fancier. 

1st day: During the winter give a portion of swede turnip 
or a piece of carrot, and a handful of sweet meadow hay; 
that will do for the morning feed of one day. In the evening 
feed about 7 o'clock upon whole oats, if the animals be full 
grown or almost matured. Young rabbits, up to three 
months, may have crushed oats and a little bran, as their 
teeth are less able to masticate the hard, whole grain. 

2d day: In the morning give a few oats and a little fine 
bran, turnip, beetroot or carrot; and in the evening give a 
handful of clover hay and a warm mash made as follows: 
Take half the quantity required of the leaf which falls from 
the clover hay, and scald it with boiling water, allowing it 
to remain in the water for about an hour; then add pollards, 
fine sharps, and patent rabbit food (of each one-third), a 
small quantity of whole linseed (which has previously been 
boiled to a jelly), and a small quantity of food for cattle 
(prepared and sold at the stores). Mix the whole into a 
stiff crumbly mass and give, while it is still warm. 

3d day: Gray peas, ooaked for 24 hours, and then laid 
out until sprouted, may l)e given on the morning of the third 
day. About two tablespoonfuls of these peas may be al- 
lowed to each adult rabbit at any time, but to the large va- 
rieties may be given a little more. Too many peas so pre- 
pared are injurious to health, as they tend to swell more 
than fatten, although they are very valuable for producing 
fine, short coats, if given in moderation. Evening feed, oats 
and a little turnip or carrot. 

4th day: Morning. Again turnips or mangold, with a 
little bran and oats, not forgetting some hay, which, if they 
dc not care to eat will F.erve for bedding. Evening (espe- 
cially if cold weather). Give them a supper of warm mash 
made as directed for the second day, omitting the purchased 
prepared food, but adding a good handful of clover hay. A 
small pinch of flowers of sulphur for each rabbit. 

5 G 



'Ah day: This may be the same as the first. 

The other days may follow in their order, or be varied, but 
we do not think it at all necessary that there should be a 
change of food every day m the week; in fact, an occasional 
change only will be found th.? best. In summer, the same 
system may be observed, merely substituting green food — 
such as comfrey, chicory, dandelion, cauliflower leaves, 
vetches, etc — for the roots; taking care, however, that all 
green stuff is perfectly dry, and that a liberal supply of 
hay and oats is given as well with, say, every other day, 
a drink of cool, clean water. In fact, in the very hot weath- 
er, water should be given daily." 

No. 207 — "In feeding mash I have found that to give the 
food immediately after mixing, and whilst in a warm state, 
is the more beneficial and satisfactory. After the food has 
become cold, as a rule, the animal does not eat it with half 
thi; relish that it does when given warm. Also, the swell- 
inij; process goes on chiefly during the mixing, and what lit- 
tle, if any, takes place after does not do the slightest injury. 
Rabbits, when in a confined state, should have at least one 
warm meal during the day." 

No. 208 — "Morning, noon and evening are the best times, 
and I prefer giving them three meals to two. Morning meal 
should be some good sweet oats. At noon, a little green 
food, such as carrot, swede turnip, potato or apple parings, 
savoy or broccoli leaves. At night the same as morning. 
The leaves should always be got in when dry. This is the 
best winter food. In the summer there is a better choice, 
and those who are foi'tunate enough in posessing a garden 
should sow a good row ov two of chicory. It grows quickly 
pnd may, if well watered, be cut four or five times a year. 
If the ground is required, the roots may be dug up and given 
to the rabbits. I have always found my rabbits do exceed- 
ingly well on this. Dandelions and sow-thistle I also like, 
but wild parsley I altogether discard, for the reason of its 
resembling hemlock, and the possibility of gathering this 
with it. I like sharps and barley fiour mixed and scalded, 
or the same mixed with boiled potatoes; and I consider that 
linseed and some of the condiments may be used to advan- 
tage. Soaked peas require to be given very cautiously, as 
they do not»suit all rabbits, and many valuable ones have 
bten lost through ther use. Good oats are far preferable, 
and are always acceptable to rabbits. A few may be given 

6 G 



with every meal of green food; and to show their relish for 
them, I have often seen the green food left for a feed of 
oats. An occasional drink of milk is very acceptable, and 
at the time of kindling does should always be supplied with 
a. little." 

No. 209 — "There has been a great deal written about feed- 
ing some fanciers recommending such a variety of food, both 
in green meat^ corn and meal of various sorts, they seem 
to forget that the majority of fanciers are people with lim- 
ited means and income. This great variety of food is not es- 
sential to keep rabbits in good condition. I have been in 
the fancy some years now, and I think I may safely say no 
one has been more successful than I have, and my rabbits 
have been fed on a very limited variety of food. My plan 
of feeding is as follows: I feed twice a day, morning and 
evening. The morning meal consists of green meat, such 
as cauliflower, broccoli, or savoy leaves, a handful of bar- 
ley, and a piece of nice sweet hay or clover. The evening 
meal, same as morning. There are many other green stuffs, 
sucb as dandelion, sow-thistle, wild parsley, etc. In winter, 
when green food becomes scarce, I give swedes, turnips or 
carrots, with corn and hay as before. I am not a believer 
in pollards, sharps, bran, barley meal, etc. Barley meal 
sometimes consists of all the mouldy and fusty sweepings 
of the mill, and the others are very little better. These 
things will, if not good, put the rabbits out of sorts very 
quickly, and in many cases prove fatal. I can speak with 
some authority on this subject, having had some experience 
in the corn trade. A little hemp seed is very nice for them 
in the proportion of a pint to a gallon of corn. This will 
make the coat look very nice and glossy." 

No. 210 — "I venture- lo make a few remarks on the sub- 
ject generally, having hoen a successful breeder for many 
years. My remarks may, perhaps, be worth reading, al- 
though my experienc may differ from many of our great fan- 
ciers. To prove my statement is not far wrong, I can safely 
say I seldom lose a rabbit, except a few years since, when I 
followed the advice of a great rabbit keeper who recom- 
mended that the houses snould be kept at a certain tempera- 
ture, with diets at regular times. Acting on his advice, I 
built a house, and kept to my instructions, but oh, what a 
fate was mine. I lost nearly all I bred. Old ones moulted 
cut of season, and all my stock got in a bad, weakly state, 

7 G 



suffering from colds, etc. I was so disgusted that I felt in- 
clined to give up the fancy altogether, but nil desperandum. 
I went back to my old system, "and can now show any one 
who pleases a stock not to be laughed at in their rough and 
ready state. The first and main thing in rabbit keeping is 
to get good hard and healthy specimens, not those brought up 
in such houses, and treated as I have before mentioned. 
Keep them outdoors in the fresh air. with certain protection 
against wet and wind. They will then live and thrive on 
almost any kind of food givei them. My rabbits have al- 
most everything a gard.^n produces, in season, and as much 
as they can eat, but to cmnterbalance the effects of so much 
green food I always give them any amount of good, sweet 
hay, and as much as they will eat of old, hard clover. If 
I find the least signs of looseness I give a little fiour mixed 
with their evening meal, which consists of good fresh brew- 
ers' grains, and sharps or ground oats. As to feeding, my 
system is to feed twice a day only, between 7 and 8 in the 
morning, and 6 and 7 in the evening. The remainder of 
the day they are left luiet, as Nature intended them to be. 
My morning meal is whole oats as good as can be got; they 
are the cheapest. As soon as they have eaten enough to 
stay them, they have .any amount of green food in season, 
namely, wild parsley, dandelion, poppies, hogweed (the lat- 
ter by far the best of any wild food). The poppy is one of 
the most valuable rabbit-teeding stuffs we have. At certain 
times of the year I feed on scarcely anything else but that 
and oats for their morning meal, and grains and ground corn 
for their evening meal (always keeping plenty of hay m the 
hutches). I used to send out into the cornfields twice a 
week for a cartload of the red poppy. We seldom see the 
white about here. I feed almost solely on this for months. 
A great many of the fine young fat tame rabbits in the mar- 
ket are fed on nothing else but hay and poppies at certain 
times of the year. Of garden produce, I give cabbage, cauli- 
flower and broccoli preferred, pea and bean haulm, lettuce 
in moderation. In addition to above, I grow a good deal of 
chicory and comfrey, which I consider the best all-around 
foods ijr rabbits, and all true fanciers, if convenient, ohould 
grow them largely. My winter green food is carrots, swedes 
and celery. I do not believe in getting up specimens for 
exhibition. I never make any difference in their food at 
such times. I take them out of their hutches in their rough 

8 G 



and ready state and, when I do show — which is seldom — I 
am not far behind those whose specimens are got up for 
the occasion." 

No. 211 — "I have found, as a rule, that rabbits will eat 
greedily of their food for a few minutes after it is put in the 
trough, and then leave it. and in some cases will not touch it 
again till there is some fresh put in, and from this I con- 
sider that the best plan is to feed them oftener, and give 
less food at a time. I feed my rabbits at least three times 
a day, giving for the first meal (which is about 7.30 in the 
morning) a handful of sweet hay and a small quantity of 
scalded meal. The latter is not mixed too thin, so that it 
will crumble, and is given directly it is made, as it warms the 
rtibbit, and has a better tendency to fatten. For the second 
meal (about 1 o'clock roon) 1 give green food or carrots. 
For the third meal (at 6 o'clock in the evening, oats or other 
grain. The meal for the first feed is changed every alter- 
nate week, or oftener, and consists of either barley meal and 
Indian corn, mixed; barley meal and coarse or fine sharps 
(pollards) mixed; or oatmeal and bran; but these are scalded, 
as before stated. A small portion of sulphur is added once 
a week, to keep the bowels open, and prevent pot belly and 
scurvy, or dry rot. A little linseed meal is also given occa- 
sionally with the porridge. For green food, I prefer cab- 
bage, lettuce, endive, parsley, chicory tops, carrot and turnip 
tops, carrots and potatoes. The last named are boiled, and 
not given too often, as I consider that they cause flatulency. 
Soaked gray peas are also used, but not very often. For 
grain I use crushed oats barley or wheat; and these, if boiled 
ccasionally, I think have a very beneficial effect. Brewers' 
grains I object to, as I think they turn sour on the stomach, 
and thus do the animal a sei-ious injury." 

No. 212 — "As the entire South is interested in Belgian 
hare raising, and so many inquiries as to feed and care of 
hares come to me by every mail. I wish to state that pea vine 
hay is equal, if not superior, to alfalfa. I started feeding 
one feed of nice, new, i^lean. alfalfa hay, and one of pea 
vine hay, with pea pods mostly matured. In less than ten 
days, they would eat pea vines, pods and all, clean, while the 
alfalfa was partly eaten and pulled about. I watched this 
for nearly eight weeks, and am persuaded that pea hay is 
excellent for Belgian hares and I believe they will flourish 
upon it. Now, as to the advantage of the pea vines over al- 

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falfa, for the South here, is the fact that good hay of any 
kind is a scarce article in the Southern states generally, 
and is very hard to get \n many parts, but pea vine hay can 
be raised three crops a year anywhere, and one square rod 
will raise enough to sustain all the hares needed for a fam- 
ily, and is as cheap in proportion for the more extensive 
breeder. I am sure this information will be welcomed bj- 
all owners of Belgian hares, and those who are studying the 
industry, especially in the Gulf states, which, by reason of 
the short, wild winters, are so well adapted to the raising 
of Belgian hares." 

No. 213 — "In about 2i/4 to 3 weeks the young will begin to 
eat. Now watch that young do not get too much green food. 
I prefer feeding dry clover hay until young are at least 
five weeks old. I give tiiem every morning, mash composed 
of one-half fine cut clo/er hay (but not mouldy), the other 
half oats, better rolled oats for very young hares, cornmea? 
and bran, in equal proportions. I put up a little bit of 
salt in it and mix it good. Then I moisten the whole with 
one-half sweet milk and one-half water, but only moisten it; 
do not make it mushy. This stale bread soaked also partly 
in milk and water, and good clover hay, is sufficient to make 
them grow. See that vtie Uttle hares cannot run over drink- 
ing vessels, as it will kill them if they get frequently wet. Do 
not be afraid to feed your young growing stock oats once a 
day. It will make them strong. Hares do not get sick from 
eating oats. The trouble must be looked for somewhere 
else. Give your young hares freedom, that is. to a certain 
extent, and you will see them growing wonderfully and be 
healthy. When I have several does with young about six 
weeks old, I put about tv/o dozen young hares in a wire run 
about 15 feet square, and put a long box, or hollow log, in 
centre, but see that rain does not get in." 

No. 214 — "My method of feeding is to give them, both in 
summer and winter, a little sweet oat straw, and they seem 
always to relish it right well; and then what is left does 
for bedding. I then give them a little sweet hay, and this 
they take eagerly, by way of a change. In the summer time 
I feed them on dandelion, grass, prickly comfrey, cauliflower 
leaves, common dock, parsley, chicory, and give occasionally 
a few sprigs of red or green sage, mixed with other green 
food, which has a tendency to warm and nourish them. This 
green food I give at midday. In the morning I feed on 

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whole oats — good oats, for they are the best and cheapest — 
and in the evening I repeat the feeding, and my does with 
litters I again supply with green food. The young fancier, 
and the old one as well, should never give an excess of 
cabbage, lettuce or turnip tops, unless he wishes to scour his 
rpbbits to death. I never feed on this detelerious food, and 
many eminent fanciers I find denounce the cabbage diet. 
In the winter I give cats, soft meal of brain, Indian meal, 
oatmeal, barley meal and linseed meal, mixed into balls 
just sufficient for one rai)bit. This I supply three times a 
v-eek, besides plenty of ?ood oat straw and hay swede turnips 
and carrots; but too many swede turnips have a tendency 
tc scour the rabbits, and when this is perceived they should 
not have any more of th«m for a day or two, but should be 
supplied copiously with cold \vater, oats and hay, and they 
will soon be right. Some fanciers are fond of giving soaked 
anc sprouted peas, but I have a strong objection to them, on 
account of their causing flatulence, although they are very 
nutritious, and quickly form flesh. Breeding does I gener- 
ally supply with boiled milk and bread, in addition to their 
regular food, for two or three weeks after kindling, and this 
not only nourishes them, but their offspring. Green food, 
if copiously given, will never harm any rabbits, provided 
they have plenty of hay and good oats daily." 

No. 215 — "I use green food very extensively among my 
rabbits. I give green oats, and lints (some call them tares), 
when they are to be obtained. They both are grown to- 
gether here, cut down and used chiefly for cattle, and I find 
tbem to answer better than any other green food that I have 
tried. Rabbits not only do well on this mixture, but it 
greatly assists them in their moult, and you may give any 
amount without danger either to old or young ones. I only 
feed once a day, and that in the evening, between 6 and 8. 
Besides green food, I have always standing in troughs good, 
SY/eet, sound, whole oats, together with a good supply of 
sweet hay and clover sufficient to last them until the next 
evening (during which time they are kept quiet) ; and no 
rabbits look better than mine do. I never had disease 
among them." 

No. 216 — "Breeding of the hare in Southern California has 
many of the advantages that breeding of poultry does, ow- 
ing to our mild climate. We have no snow and freezing 
weather to guard against, but bunny will catch cold here 

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same as elsewhere. By taking time by the forelock and 
bunny by the back of the neck, and applying a mixture of 
one part turpentine and two parts coal oil, with a free use 
of salt, we have been ible to check and subdue this affec- 
tion, thus preventing Its assuming its worst form, snuffles. 
We also feed occasionally both eucalyptus leaves and hoar- 
hound, which are both excellent tonics and correctives, and 
avoid all sloppy foods, and use care in feeding green foods. 
Hares must become accustomed to green foods gradually, 
and we prefer to feed nursing does no green foods what- 
ever. Belgians oftentimes display marked individual 
tastes in regard to their rations. For instance, we have 
one buck that under no persuasion will eat oats, while an- 
other is particularly fond of this food. California breed- 
ers feed alfa'fa hay mostly, and crushed barley forms the 
leading ration, which the hares like very much." 

No. 217 — "The doe ohould have good, sound grain, fresh 
water and sweet, fresh hay that is well cured and not wa- 
tery. If green food is fed it should be done sparingly. 
The best vegetable food is carrots. It will be but a few 
weeks when the young will begin to run around the box and 
out into the runs. They will relish the carrots. Care 
should be taken with the water dish. One should be used 
that will not allow the youngsters in their frolicking to fall 
in and die in the spring time of their youth." 

No. 218 — "When first I commenced to keep rabbits 1 used 
to feed them three times a day, and often found they had 
only half eaten up what I had given them. Then I tried 
twice — night and morning — but still found that much I had 
given them was left. Then I decided to feed only once a 
day. and have found It not only better, but much cheaper, 
as they in almost every case eat all up, and are ready for the 
next meal. Thus I have not half the waste, and the rab- 
bits are in better condition, having more rest during the day. 
I, of course, do not include the does with young in this rule. 
I give to each doe bread and milk or other soft food (extra) 
each day. My general mode of feeding is as follows: At 
8 p. m., a handful of best white old Scotch oats, a little 
gieen food or swede, a handful of sweet hay, and, twice a 
week (extra) a ball of fine sharps, mixed very stiff with well 
boiled linseed. This last-named mixture will prove of great 
benefit to stock, both in respect to health, and keeping the 
coats in proper order. I have also found, especially in sum- 

12 G 



mer time, when a rabbit is oft" its meat, and skulking in one 
corner, that a drink of cold water will often put it right. 
In preparing rabbits for show, give, in addition, each day, a 
few gray peas which have been steeped in water for 24 hours, 
and then taken out and dried. To the bucks you may give 
a good handful, but with the does you must be more care- 
ful, as the peas are very heating and if given in too great 
a quantity, will cause the does to pull off their fur and make 
a false nest, thus spoiling them for show for some time. 
Place the specimen you intend to exhibit in a rather small- 
er hutch, keep it extra clean, with a good supply of fresh hay 
daily. Take it out at least once a day, and give it a real 
good grooming, first with a rather hard brush, then with one 
rather softer and finish with a clean wash-leather. After 
keeping thus for a week, you will find it wonderfully im- 
proved, and ready to meet the keenest judge. Always be 
careful to give them a good feed before sending them to a 
show." 

No. 219 — "I have never found any feed for rabbits that 
keeps them in better health and condition than corn fodder, 
middlings and bran with cornmeal. This I prepare in the fol- 
lowing manner: Take one-half bushel of bran, one peck of 
middlings, two quarts cornmeal. This I mix, and add two 
quarts to a bushgl of corn fodder cut to one-half inch with 
feed cutter. Add a pinch of salt, and water enough to stick 
feed to corn stalks. I never had anything outside of this 
feed for eight months in the year, and never have a sicR 
rabbit while using this manner of feeding. My rabbitry is 
132 feet long by 18 feet in width. On each side of feedway, 
I have spaces for each pair of hares, 6x8 feet, enclosed 
by wire netting. My feed room is 16x18 feet, one and a half 
story high with a well of water in one corner of the room. I 
never fail to give my rabbits fresh water at least once a day. 
I have no trouble with di.^eases, and believe most diseases are 
caused by over feeding and improper care. Give a rabbit 
plenty of room to exercise, feed twice a day, see that they 
have plenty of clean water, and above all things keep away 
from them and let them alone, and you will have less com- 
plaint of sick rabbits." 

No. 220 — "The best way which I consider to feed is: On 
Monday morning, green meat, which consists of dandelions 
and clover. Noon, good whole oats — the best are the cheap- 
est. Evening, maize meal and bran, about half and half, 

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mixed with boiling water, to which should be added a small 
portion of sulphur, as 't will keep the bowels open and pre- 
vent dropsy (or pot belly) and scurvy (or dry rot). Tuesday 
morning, a few good gray peas (about a handful) ^which have 
been soaked in water lor 24 hours, and then spread ou a 
damp floor until sprouted. Noon, green meat such as chick- 
ory tops and endive, with a little lettuce (not seedy). Even- 
ing, barley meal, mixed Avith fine bran, and no sulphur. Wed- 
nesday morning, hemp seed. Noon, green meat, parsley tops 
ov carrot tops. Evening, rice meal, mixed as on Tuesday. 
Thursday morning, barley, the very best. Noon, green meat, 
hog weed. Evening, a mixture of oatmeal (oats ground, not 
the Scotch oatmeal) and bran. Friday morning, green meat 
or roots. Noon, a small portion of bran. Evening, maize 
meal, with no bran. Saturday — this day I generally clean 
them out, so I only feed twice. Morning, oats. Evening, a 
mixture of oatmeal (Scotch), maize meal, and barley meal, 
with bran. Sunday morning, hemp seed and coarse Scotch 
oatmeal, mixed. Noon, taucasion prickly comfrey. Even- 
ing, a mixture of barley, rice and maize meal, with no bran. 
I may also add that once a month a pan of rice about six 
pounds at a boiling, may be divided among 60 or 80 rabbits. 
I have found this very valuable to young rabbits, as it helps 
to make bone." 

No. 221 — "My bunnies are kept in outdoor hutches, summer 
and winter, sheltered alike from damp, cold and wind. They 
are fed three times a day. In morning, as early as possible, 
I give a good feed of v/hole oats (the best that money can 
buy) or barley. At midday I give them as much greens as 
they can eat. In winter, of coarse, in 'greens', I include car- 
rots, swedes, celery, beet and other roots. At night, I give 
a meal consisting of bran, oatmeal and Indan meal, equal 
parts of each, and well "nixed with boiling water, and give 
warm; or, mixed with bran, barley meal, and pea sr Dean 
meal. I give my rabbits any greens that a vegetable garden 
produces, with the exception of rhubarb leaves, and one 
other difference, that I give very moderately of cabbages, 
cauliflower leaves and turnip tops to my rabbits until they 
art four months old, but after that age they hare as much 
as they like. I always bed my rabbits with sawdust, and I 
have proved (by a trial of some years) this to be, without 
exception, the best, cheapest, and by far the most healthful. 
I often give a handful of good sweet hay, old clover, or dried 

14 G 



lucerne to each rabbit, which they much enjoy; and I find, 
given this way, the hay, clover, etc., prove a cheap and good 
kind of food. As a change, bread and milk, given occasion- 
ally, is also very good icr rabbits. The secret of successful 
feeding is so small that it lies in a nutshell, and the secret is 
this: Have large and well-ventilated hutches, in a warm and 
ventilated spot. Give your rabbits nothing but good sound 
food (whether green or dry) and feed in such small quanti- 
ties that they will eat up readily what you put into their 
hutches, and so be eager and ready for their next meal. 
Anyone with common sense will see two good reasons for 
doing so. (1) That by giving them what they can eat at 
once, you do away with the sight and smell of food, thereby 
saving your purse. (2) That rabbits with the sight and smell 
of food always in their hutches (like people) lose their appe- 
tites, and therefore, by not seeing and smelling food always 
in their hutches between meals, their appetite increases, and 
they enjoy each meal. Keep your rabbit hutches scrupulously 
clean, give as much green food as the inmates can eat, at the 
same time taking great care to give such a quantity of dry 
food as will overrule and keep down the tendency to loose- 
ness which too much greens are apt to produce. And lastly. 
bear in mind this rule, that the greater variety you give 
your rabbits, the more ihey will thrive. In conclusion, T 
would advise all fanciers able to do so, to grow chicory, com- 
frey, carrots cauliflowers, cabbages, parsley, and potatoes, 
in large quantities." 

No. 222 — "Good food is unquestionably essential, but the 
best is certainly not the most expensive. Between the two 
extremes of what a rabbit will not eat, and what is 'jest to 
give it, there is a wide ground for difference of opinion. The 
real secret lies in the fact that the conditions under which 
they are kept — i. e. temperatui'e, locality and time of year — 
all have to be and are taken into considertion, and in their 
entirety form the perfect plan characteristic of the intelli- 
gent, and who is bound to be in time, the successful breeder. 
Rabbits require much more moisture than is generally sup- 
posed. Many complaints, yuch as scurf, etc., are engendered 
by too much dry food. The grand point to be observed is 
the proper portion between the two, and here I advise as a 
simple rule to be observc;d, that when green food is given, a 
handful of good sound hay or clover should accompany it. 
Much discussion has arisen .-is to the best green food, and my 

15 G " 



answer to the question, 'What is the best?' is, 'That which the 
individual breeder finds he is most successful with.' Indi- 
vidually, I am a great advocate of good sound cabbage leaves. 
I recommend cabbage leaves because with me they have pro- 
duced most satisfactory results, extending over many years. 
It is not that I will not use many varieties of green food used 
by some of my country friends, but that I cannot. Dandelion 
I am especially fond of, particularly for does with young, and 
frequently make long excursions to obtain it. I strongly rec- 
ommend rabbit keepers who have a garden to cultivate chic- 
ory. When green food is scarce or bad, I give the matured 
rabbits, with satisfactory issults, water in its place, and does 
in and with young, milk, with one-third warm water added; 
but I prefer, when obtainable, green food, for the propeities 
it contains other than moisture. I conclude my notes on green 
food with the following, which does not tend to show that the 
peculiarities of rabbits' tat'te or appetite are very limited. 
An old doe, for the benefit of her health, was allowed the 
rui: of my yard; meanwhile, those responsible for the doines- 
tic part of my establishment threw out the whole of the 
leaves of a bundle of rhubarb. This was not discovered by 
me till she had devoured at least half, and I naturally anti- 
cipated some serious results. As she appeared all right so; 
in order to experiment, [ let her. have the remainder the day 
following. This was several months ago, and she is still alive 
and well. Nevertheless, i do not recommend rhubarb or its 
leaves as a diet. Of dry foods, clover stands at the top of the 
list, and before corn, that :!s, if you get the right sort. Oats 
should be given moderately and should not be the bleached 
ones. I am rather partial to the Russian oats (black husk). 
Too many oats rather tend to precocity with the young, and 
the husk is, moreover, of a very irritating character to the 
digestive organs. I have stopped scouring by discontinuing 
them. In any case, select those with thin husks. Barley, 
though successful with some few, I never use except when 
rabbits husk their oats. I consider them of too dry and heat- 
ing a nature, most especially for indoor rabbits when kept 
in warm temperatures. Wheat is a good food, and I occa- 
sionally vary it by giving a little buckwheat. Gray i3eas 
soaked 24 hours, and strained, are also a capital food. Rice 
1 totally object to, neither do I care for potatoes, much ies?< 
their peelings. I have never yet found it necessary to follow 
a diet table which gives a constantly varying food, but ad- 

16 G 



here to the plan I have successfully adopted almost contin- 
uously since I first kept rabbits, now nearly 20 years. It has 
the merit of economy, and that the results attained are equal- 
ly advantageous the specimens produced by me, extending 
over a lengthened period, are, in my estimation, abundant 
proof." 

No. 223 — "In the first place, youngsters are ready to be 
taken away from their mother when six weeks or two months 
old. The first meal should be about 8 a. m., and should con- 
sist of hay. Rabbits are particularly fond of hay, more so if 
it be sweet. After it has been trampled on, bunny, who is a 
very particular animal, will refuse to eat it; so in order to get 
over this, throw in just as much as will last the day. Along 
with the hay, in winter and beginning of spring, give the 
rabbits swede turnips and carrots, cut up into small pieces; 
in summer, give them a small quantity of green meat. Mind, 
I say small quantity, because we are now dealing with young 
stock. I do not advocate the disuse of green meat altogether, 
but I warn the inexperienced against giving young stock too 
much of it; and I reiterate what I have previously said, that 
if you do the effect will l.'e diFastrous. Evening feed should 
consist of either crushed oats or a mixture, in equal quanti- 
ties, of barley meal, pollard and bran, prepared with boiling 
v/ater, and of a consistency which may be understood by the 
use of the term 'crumbly.' Now, before proceeding further, 
let me say that after I clean my hutches, by scraping and 
brushing out of all accumulation of matter, I sprinkle the 
floors plentifully with sawdust, more particularly in the cor- 
ners which have obtained the most refuse. (Rabbits also in 
this are very clean, nearly always going to one particular 
corner.) The sawdust absorbs all moisture, and so tends to 
keep the inmates comfortably dry under foot — a very impor- 
tant thing. Chopped straw is a very fair substitute for saw- 
dust, but there is a difficulty connected with it, which is the 
inability of the majority of fanciers to obtain it. On the 
other hand, sawdust is equally as good, and easier to be pro- 
cured. If a rabbit is seen to grow big about its belly, discon- 
tinue the use of green meat altogether for some days. Give 
the subject or patient plenty of exercise, and thus save its 
life, because, if this is allowed to go on for any long period, 
it terminates fatally, rhe poor little thing, suddenly tumb- 
ling on its back, begins throwing itself violently about, and 
exhibiting all the symptoms of a child taken with a convul- 

17 G 



sive fit. The disease does not attack an old rabbit except 
very rarely, when its existence finishes by a wasting or pin- 
ing away. I keep my young stock until they attain the age 
of from four to five mouths in warm lofts, and they have al- 
ways water to drink. The portion of my pets which I keep in 
hutches I give water to drink, in warm weather, once or 
twice a day. My modus operandi of feeding for exhibition is 
as follows: Morning, plentiful supply of hay, and a piece of 
turnip, carrot, or green m'^at. Evening, a mash consisting of 
either barley meal and pollard, bran meal, or pollard and 
bran in equal quantities, prepared with boiled linseed. If 
rabbits are fed according to the above, they will always be 
healthy, with a bright look about them, and withal shapely, 
plump, grand, and always a source of pleasure." 

No. 224 — "I scarcely ever have any symptoms of ailing 
among my pets. This 1 attribute mainly to my feeding. I 
give in the morning hay; at midday, carrots, or swedes; and 
in the evening, either oats or potato peelings, boiled and 
mixed with meal, usually given warm. They have not seen a 
particle of anything green for over five months. I give them 
a drink of water all round every day, as much as they care to 
drink, while I am standing by, and they certainly thrive 
amazingly." 

No. 225 — "It is now about 49 years since I bought my first 
rabbit, a doe. She had seven or eight young ones, and I was 
cautioned particularly against giving them too much green 
meat. I fed them on the best of food — oatmeal, barley and 
pea meal, with a little green meat; at three weeks old they 
showed signs of pot bellies. I gave them less green meat. 
They grew poorer and worse, and at last nearly all died. I 
went on for years with but indifferent success, and through 
the teaching of an old friend I at last found that I was starv- 
ing them on the best of food, namely, feeding them against 
their nature, and not giving sufficient water to nourish them. 
I altered my course, and have had the best of success. I do 
not lose one a year, and a pot bellied one I have not nad for 
years. I feed my does well with barley, oats or pea meal, 
mixed with pollard, wet with cold water just sufficient to roll 
in crumbs. I feed them with this, night and morning, and with 
as much green stuff as they will eat, from the day the young 
first crawl from their ne.3t until I kill or sell them. They have 
always green stuff before them, taking away each time I feed 
them what is left from the previous meal; but it should not 

18 G 



be given wet. I as a rule get it one day before I want it, and 
spread it abroad, to get thoroughly well dried before feeding 
with it. With most rabbit keepers, their rabbits will leave 
anything for a bit of green meat. Mine will leave green 
stuff for any dry food. I lately killed a common prick-eared 
rabbit, nine weeks old, for a pie. The kidneys were covered 
with fat, and larger than those of a common wild one. Rab- 
bits can in this way be ra,jsed to give a good profit for eat- 
ing purposes. All they require is good room, not too confined 
for air. to be kept clean, and regularly fed according to my 
lule, and they will pay the keeper. Let some four rabbit 
keepers try this. But I must caution them against one thing 
— not to give their pets a lot of green stuff one day, and the 
next none, or they will gorge, and come to grief; but if regu- 
larly fed, and plenty is always before them, they will thrive 
and prosper. Do not scald their food — it is against nature; 
and instead of littering them with sawdust, use short, 
cut straw; they like it better, and amuse themselves by nib- 
bling a bit here and there." 

No. 226 — "As one of the largest breeders of poultry and 
rabbits in France, I use this method of feeding: The dry 
fodder, such as hay, etc., is always placed in the rack, the 
grain and oats in the trough. The soup and potatoes are 
given in a dish. The trough and dish are kept scrupulously 
clean, so that the food has a good flavor; and above all, care 
is taken that it is not contaminated by the urine of the ani- 
mal. The midday meal comes from the kitchen garden. By 
preference the mothers have milk producing plants, such as 
lettuce, groundsel, bindweed, plantain, vetches, the vine of 
French beans and scarlet runners, pimpernel and fennel. 
Parsley is also very good, but it is only given to the does 
weaning their young, as we know the property of parsley is 
to dry up the milk. Cabbage stalks should be divided and, 
like cabbage, given in rmall quantities at a time; as also 
should the young shoots which come from the pruning of 
fruit trees — the peach excepted — the vine, young shoots of 
the elm, poplar, mulberry, lime, nut and the willow. The 
roots are carrots, parsnips, turnip, cabbage and beet root. 
This last is very watery and cold, and should be mixed with 
bran or meal. All these, accompanied with oats, barley and 
alter-grass, form an excellent and very varied food. It is 
good to accustom the young rabbits to eat soup; those which 
begin early are not affected when separated from the mother. 

19 G 



This soup can be made from the water in which the plates 
and dishes are washed, and in the water are boiled the peel- 
ings of vegetables— leeks, potatoes, etc. In the winter, to 
excite the appetite, I ojcasionally mix thyme with the dry 
food. The winter food being very dry, liquid must not be 
forgotten. Water is indispensable in the summer, also for the 
doe's when littering, to calm the fever, and even during suck- 
ling, which causes must thirst. When the young are obliged 
to be weaned before they are six weeks old, they should have 
milk given in small troughs which have been well scalded 
and cleansed after each time of using. The food should be 
distributed with care, attention being paid that all are able 
to partake of it at the same time, or some would pine. After 
each meal, the racks and troughs must be emptied. Should 
any food be left, the animals having breathed on it, would 
nor touch it after. Potatoes must always be boiled. In a raw 
state they are hurtful. Wet grass or herbs, as well as that 
mowed or cut, and left in the sun, are bad. The most in- 
jurious herb is the red chickweed, found with the wild en- 
dive." 

No. 227 — "When the bowels are relaxed by the frequent 
use of green food, I advise The use of a mixture of meal and 
water, or better still, porridge made from Indian meal; and, 
for the benefit of those who do not understand the approved 
mode of making meal porridge, I will explain the manner in 
which I make mine. In the first place, I take a saucepan 
which holds half a gallon, three parts fill it with water, and 
place it on the fire. When the water boils, I put in it a packet 
of cattle spice. The meal should then be taken up and sprinkled 
ir with one hand, while the contents are being stirred with 
the other. In this manner proceed until the porridge has 
boiled so thick that it cannot longer be stirred. It is ihen 
poured or spread out on a board or piece of iron to cool. 
This quantity is sufficient as a meal for 20 full-grown rab- 
bits. Some people may say, why go to the trouble of making 
porridge for rabbits? These people little know that it is the 
least troublesome method of feeding them. I can make the 
above quantity in about ten minutes. During the summer 
months I give this porridge as the evening meal to my rab- 
bits at least four times a week. I sometimes pour boilmg 
water (in which I mix a teaspoonful of curry powder) over 
barley meal, and mix :'nto a dry mess with bran; and this is 
very good as a change. Oats, and what few vegetables they 

20 G 



get, constitute the morning meal all the year round. For 
green food during the summer months, I give lettuce, endive, 
carrot and turnip tops, chicory, clover, vetches, celery tops, 
dandelion and parsley. Potato parings should never be given 
in a raw state, but boiled and mixed with meal they form a 
good and wholesome food, if used in moderation; and for 
winter use, swede turnips, a small quantity of thyme, fennel 
or peppermint, may be given with advantage twice a week, as 
they are good condiments, and also tend to promote the 
appetite, rabbits needing change even in green food. I have 
also plucked the wild sorrel and dried it for winter use, hav- 
ing found it a capital nreventive against scurvy, which in 
some rabbitries is very prevalent during the winter months, 
although I can safely bay that with my mode of feeding rab- 
bits they are seldom or never troubled with this disease. ' 

No. 228 — "I fearlessly assert that rabbits require a pre- 
ponderance of moist food; that a great bulk of the diseases to 
which they are subject and many deaths occur through giving 
so much dry food. Clover I place at the top of the list, from 
the large quantity of saccharine matter it contains, which I 
have mentioned is requisite for the development of animal 
heat. It should be the first cut, as fine and leafy as you can 
get, and take care also to have it as green as possible, discard- 
ing at once any orown or heated stuff, as you might almost as 
well give them sawdust to eat as this. The same remark ap- 
plies to hay. Middlings is one of the most essential dry foods, 
and contains a large proportion of bone-forming substances (5 
per cent.) and contains, also, 18 per cent, of flesh forming ma- 
terial, of which latter peas contain the highest, 25 per cent, 
while in bone-forming substances, only contain 2 per cent. 
Care must be taken to get the right sort. Biscuit middlings 
must be insisted upon. The following has been for the last ten 
years, and is now, my method of using the above: I infer a 
truss of clover has be^n selected. I have a box that will con- 
tain sufficient for the day's supply. At the bottom is fitted a 
drawer, immediately above which, nailed to the side of the 
box, is some one-half inch mesh wire netting — in point of fact, 
it resembles, and is to all intents and purposes, a sieve. The 
clover being put in at the top, the small or heavy particles 
pass through into the drawer. One handful of this to three of 
middlings is scalded, and thoroughly mixed together — not wet, 
let it be crumbling — and given warm to each rabbit the first 
thing in the morning (the earlier the better) and a similar al- 

21 G 



lownnce about 7 in the evening. The midday meal consists of 
green food liberally given — I prefer good, sound cabbage 
leaves, not dried up, but of course, not wet. Our country 
friends will think my advocacy of cabbage leaves partakes 
somewhat of the cockney; but experience shows that they are 
specially adapted to animals kept in confinement. At this 
time they have also a handful of clover — i. e., the does which 
have young, and the matured rabbits. But if the does are in 
young, and up to the time of kindling, I prefer them to have 
the same quantity of sweet meadow hay. Let them have also 
at this meal some oats, a very few only will be requisite. Rab- 
bits fed as described by me will eat but few oats; and observe, 
when oats are used extensively, much less green food will be 
consumed. Now, as in their natural condition they live chiefly 
on vegetable diet. I contend that any food which interferes 
with what Nature has prescribed for them should be looked 
upon with suspicion, even ttiough they are kept in hutches. 
With this mixture of clover and middlings, their appetite for 
green food is increased. The last thing at night they have a 
similar feed as at midday, and those that have young six 
weeks old have at both these meals, in addition to the oats, 
some gray peas that have been soaked for 24 hours in cold 
water and strained. I observed just now that green food 
should be liberally given, and I wish this to be accepted in its 
full sense. They will not eat too much of it. It must be con- 
tinued with scrupulous regularity. It is the departure from 
this rule that generally produces pot belly— all today, and then 
none for two or three days. If by any chance you have a break 
of this kind in supplies, a small quantity must be given at first 
when you resume, increasing the supply gradually till you 
work up to the regular allowance. I might add, where oats 
are used as the staple foou, a little water given twice a day 
will be found beneficial. I have adopted a similar plan when 
green food is scarce, and strongly recommend it at that time, 
whatever the system of feeding may be. At seven or eight 
weeks, does with young on them should have added to the 
middlings and clover one part of barley meal, which will assist 
the young in moulting. 'How much am I to give them each 
time of feeding?' some of our friends will ask. They must 
find this out for themselves. No rule of quantity can be given. 
And here I must enter my protest that rabbits are enormous 
eaters, and I meet it with the retort that their keepers are not 
infrequently enormous wasters. Of course, it is easy enough 

22 G 



to throw in two or three handfuls of oats and a little green 
food, repeating this at intervals, ad infinitum; but such feed- 
ing is expensive, and is not productive of good results. A sim- 
ple rule of feeding is to observe whether any food remains 
from the previous meal, and if such should be the case, keep 
reducing the quantity given. I like to see an empty trough 
when I go to feed, and the rabbits come up to it when I open 
the hutch door. It will not be desirable to clean out the 
hutches of does that have young till at least a fortnight after 
kindling; and do not disturb tho bed place till a few weeks 
after. Let a plentiful supply of sawdust be thrown in if the floor 
of the hutch is wet, which should not be the case if properly 
made. I genei'ally select as a time for cleaning out just before 
the midday meal. Inasmuch as milk is the most important 
food for young rabbits, and goats' milk is especially rich in 
those substances essential to the development of all the prop- 
erties of a fancy rabbit, there is abundant reason for rabbit 
fanciers cultivating goats. It is desirable to let the youngsters 
have some milk while still on the doe; in fact, a favorite food 
with a few of our breeders is a mixture of middlings, barley 
meal and milk, from the time the doe kindles. I prefer getting 
them to drink it before the morning and evening meals, com- 
mencing directly they leave the nest. Some will not take it, 
but those that will gain a considerable advantage. If cows' 
milk is used, a little warm water should be added. Continue 
with either as long as you perceive beneficial results derived 
thereby and also remember that it considerably helps more 
matured animals, especially when out of condition. After 
they are weaned, gray peas soaked for 24 hours in cold water 
and strained may be given them at pleasure. Give also the 
mixture of clover, middlings and barley meal, only particularly 
observe that none is left from the previous meal. Do not be 
afraid of green food, but let them have plenty of dry clover at 
the same time. It is advantageous to let them have peas as 
soon as they can eat. There is one disadvantage, however, at- 
tending this plan. The peas act as a stimulating food on some 
does, who eat them greedily. A method adopted by some is to 
shut her in the bed place while the young eat the peas; but 
does not infrequently resent this estrangement which some- 
times is very objectionable. For this and similar reasons I 
lay great stress on giving the young milk until they are taken 
from the doe, and, where obtainable, that of the goat. When 
the young are about four months old, or even before, they 

23 G 



must, if kept together, be closely watched, particularly if you 
have two bucks occupying the same hutch; and if once sepa- 
rated, they must not be put together again. A buck and doe 
can generally be kept longer. Carrots, of which white ones 
are the best, may be given them when green food is scarce, but 
I object to many of either. There is just one word of caution 
that must be given as to giving gray peas. Of course, it will 
be generally understood of what a forcing nature they are, 
and therefore, should the rabbits run at the eye, or have any 
apparent complaint, in whatever form it may present itself, 
discontinue the peas at once, otherwise the disease will be ag- 
gravated." 

No. 229 — "Rabbits that are reared for the table should, if 
practicable, be kept in large quantities, loose, and not in single 
hutches. The months of February and March are certainly 
the best for breeding for this purpose, because then the rearer 
will have less dilRculty in procuring green stuff. Supposing 
the young to have been kindled about the beginning of March, 
the strongest should be taken away about the middle of April, 
and the remainder towards the end of the same month. Care 
should be taken that when the doe is suckling they are 
well supplied with food, which should be soft and succulent, 
but of not too aperient a nature. Young rabbits' teeth are not 
strong enough to masticate whole oats or barley, and if grain 
be given them, it should be bruised or crushed until the rabbit 
has attained the age of two months. They should be fed with 
a good selection of green, succulent food, a large supply of 
clover and hay, and enough corn to keep them in condition; 
the latter should be crushed until the young rabbits are about 
three months old. The profit will depend greatly upon the 
judgment with which this matter is managed. They may be 
put up for fattening at any age between three and six months. 
When taken from their mothers, two or three litters should be 
allowed to run together in either a pit or shed, care being 
taken that it is perfectly dry, or diarrhoea and rot will ensue. 
The average age v,'hen taken from their mothers will be two 
montas. It is difficult to say exactly what amount of corn 
should be given, but it may be stated as an average that a lit- 
tle under half a pint a day will be amply sufficient for young 
ones of this age. A peck — 16 pints — should last nearly five 
weeks for each one. A peck and a half, then, will do for seven 
or eight weeks, and this will bring the young ones up to four 
months old. They may be fattened then, or they may be kept 

24 G 



a month or two. Vv''ith reference to the corn for these two 
months, oats and barley are about the best. Let these be 
given alternately, either daily or weekly, and for a change a 
little meal may sometimes be substituted. Oilcake is very 
good, if you can get them to take it, but their appetites have 
first to be educated. Bread crusts are very good and very 
profitable; they can be bought almost at a nominal price, and 
are very good tlesh producers. If very stale, the crusts should 
be slightly soaked, but should not be given with too much 
moisture in them, although, if you can afford to give milk, 
there is nothing better to bring them on, and in this case they 
may be given as moist as possible. Tea leaves mixed with the 
corn are also cheap and beneficial, as are also potatoes and po- 
tato peelings. An arrangement can easily be made with a 
baker for his refuse potato peelings, and among these will be 
found a good deal of the vegetable itself. Boil these and give 
them hot, mixed with bran. Scrupulously exclude bran from 
the corn trough: it is often given to make the corn go further, 
but it will be found to have quite a different effect. A 
great amount of the success will depend upon the judicious ad- 
ministration of roots and green stuff. Give these with a lib- 
eral hand, taking care to note any approach of looseness, and 
to guard against its increase; so long as your stock is not 
troubled with this nuisance there need be no limit as to the 
amount. Cabbages, lettuces, long grass, young wheat, chicory, 
comfrey, tares, clover, vetches, marshmallows, sow and milk 
thistles, hare and garden parsley carrot, turnip and parsnip 
tops and roots are all good, and being of a succulent nature, 
will entirely do away Avith the necessity for liquid. Green 
food should alwaj^s be given dry. Some advocate the cutting 
of it a day or two before it is required; but it would be better 
to give it as fresh as possible so long as it is free from mois- 
ture. Apples and pears are very much liked, but are not ad- 
visable for a regular food. Hay should be given very liberally, 
as it will counteract any bad effects produced by too much 
green stuff. Keep the place scrupulously clean, and give straw 
or sawdust for bedding. This treatment will do nicely till the 
rabbits are selected for fattening; they will then be not fat, 
but fairly, plump, and in a thoroughly healthy condition. The 
males should then be cut, an operation which is very easily ef- 
fected, and improves both the flesh and the temper of the ani- 
mal. Then place the selected ones in rather small hutches, 
not too many together, and commence the cramming process. 

25 G 



Oat and barley meal are the two best and cheapest flesh pro- 
ducers. Mix these with tea leaves or boiled potatoes, and give 
twice a day, warm; also supply well with sweet hay. Milk 
sweetened with a little sugar is an excellent fattener, but 
rather expensive, but a little now and then will be greatly rel- 
ished. Select the green stuff carefully, and do not give it 
either too liberally or too sparingly, as the former will cause 
looseness, and the latter constipation, both of which, the for- 
mer especially, will greatly hinder your work. If fed carefully 
and judiciously in this manner, it is surprising how rapidly 
they will put on flesh, and that of the best quality. As soon 
as each one is fat enough, he can be taken away and killed. 

No. 230 — "Here in this section (Maryland), whenever the 
winds bring continued rains from over the Atlantic ocean, 
the dampness is too much for the constitution of the hare 
unless comfortably housed, but through the perfectness with 
v^hich Nature has endowed its mind with contentment, ren- 
ders this species of rabbits capable of much confinement, for 
as certain as I can keep their minds contented and in a heal- 
thy condition, their bodies are sure to thrive. Thus weather 
cannot prevent the keeping of them; for here a house can 
be built which for a small amount will keep a surprising 
number happy and thrifty, if well cared for. One article of 
diet that I find to be very healthy for my Belgians, that prob- 
ably many breeders and fanciers do not use, is the southern 
black cow-pea hay. It is easily grown, even on poor land, 
and can be cured so that the hay does not lose its green 
shade. I give my rabbits nothing but pea hay in the evening, 
and the next morning ii .s all gone — leaves, stalks, stems, 
pods, peas and all. The rabbits seem to be fond of eating at 
night, and I have an idea that they spend more time sitting 
out on a pile of hay chewing away with a never tireless 
speed than they do in dreaming." 



26 G 



LESSON EIGHT. 

How to Breed 

Like Produces Like — Mate Only Sound, Healthy Specimens 
at Least Seven Months Old — Take the Doe to the Buck's 
Hutch — After Two Weeks Place Doe in Breeding Hutch — 
Preparation of the Nest Box — How to Inspect the Young 
of the Wildest Does — Need of Water at Kindling Time — 
Keeping Intruders Out — Rules for Strangers and Strange 
Dogs — Do Not Meddle with Nest — Doe Will Remove Dead 
Young — When Does Destroy Their Young — Advantage of 
Several Does Littering at the Same Time — Dutch Rabbits 
Good for Nurses — When Does May Again Visit the Buck — 
How to Tell the Sex of Young Belgians — When Young 
Rabbits Moult — Critical Time Requiring Extra Care — 
Only a Very Small Percentage of Young Should Be Lost. 

A FUN DA MENTAL rule in breeding is, that like begets 
like. While care, attention and feeding mean a great 
deal, it is impossible to find in the offspring standard 
qualities lacking in buck and doe. 

Mate only sound, healthy specimens. They should be at 
least seven months old when mating. 

Take the doe to the buck's hutch for service. Being in a 
strange place, she will be less liable to fight if not in season. 
Do not leave them together more than a few minutes. If the 
doe IS unwilling to breed, take her away and try again next 
day. One good service is enough. 

When the doe is two weeks along, or about half gone with 
young, let her be placed in her breeding hutch. Get a box 
about 18 inches to 20 inches long and eight inches wide, and 
without a lid. In one end, make a hole of sufficient size for 
the doe to pass through easily. Turn the box upside down 
and leave her to become acquainted with it. A few days before 
kindling she will fill it with short straw, and when her time 
comes will make a nest in it. It does not matter whether the 
breeding hutch is in one or two compartments. The young are 
safe, and out of sight, and if it is necessary to inspect them, 
it is easy to make a small opening upon what will be the top 
of the box before putting it in, and in this way the young of 
the wildest and most savage does may be safely inspected. 

When the thirty days of gestation have expired (or even the 
day before) the doe should have a little clean water to drink, 
in a separate dish. An intense thirst is sometimes experienced 
at this time, and to possess the means of relief is often to save 

1 H 



the progeny, which would otherwise be destroyed. Care should 
be taken that the hutch is mouse proof. The more timid does 
are very likely, in the presence of intruders, either to neglect 
their young or devour them.. A sudden clap of thunder will 
sometimes cause does to miscarry, and occasionally those with 
litters will be so frightened as to scatter their young about in 
various parts of the hutch. All strangers, when visiting the 
rabbitry, should do so quietly, as a sudden rush into the pres- 
ence of the rabbits is sure to startle, and probably produce in- 
jurious results among the pregnant does. All strange dogs 
should be excluded. Well behaved dogs to which the rabbits 
are accustomed will do no harm. 

Avoid at all times touching the nest or the young, for some 
does are very suspicious, and strongly object to any interfer- 
ence with their family arrangements. In this particular, does 
are very different, but it is far better and safer not to meddle. 

Should any of the young die in the nest, the doe will soon 
remove them, generally placing them near the door of her 
hutch. Some young does will throw their little ones about 
the hutch soon after they are born, and then seem to take no 
further notice of them, but there is generally a cause for this, 
such as mice running across the nest, or some dog or cat pre- 
senting itself in front of the hutch. Such does may be tried 
again, and when about to litter supplied with a little water, 
and a clean, well ventilated hutch, with a darker portion for 
the nest. 

Try to find out the cause of any irregularity, and if none 
can be discovered the doe may, after a second trial and failure, 
be considered unfit for keeping for breeding purposes. Occa- 
sionally a change of hutch will bring success. 

Suckling does should have a liberal supply of warm milk 
and bread; indeed, many fanciers rarely use any other food. 
This is generally sufficient to bring both mother and family 
through the first three weeks satisfactorily, but a supply of 
carrots, oats, and boiled Indian meal, in the form of a paste, 
is also desirable at this time. Avoid any watery food, likely 
to derange the bowels, but a few soaked peas may be given, 
and will tend to restore the doe to her original strength. When 
bread and milk are used for does just littering, a separate dish 
for this purpose is better than the ordinary one for, while that 
for the dry food is easily kept sweet and clean, the dish for 
milk is liable to become sour, especially in warm weather. 
Dishes used for soft foods should be washed and scalded every 

2 H 



day, or the worst results are likely to follow. 

If in a stock of does, one-third of them have litters at the 
same date, the same warm food may be given to all; the spare 
hutches should be in process of preparation for the young. 
Another advantage in several does littering about the same 
date is, that should any of them have too many young, one or 
two of them may be transferred to does with small litters. 
If it is at all advisable to do this, the sooner it is done after 
birth, the better. A doe may show signs of debility, and so the 
rearing of two or three less will assist restoration to her origi- 
nal strength. If any nurses should be found requisite, the lit- 
tle Dutch rabbits are better than any, for they are of a kind 
and tractable disposition, have generally an abundance of 
milk, and are strong and hardy. As a rule, each doe will bring 
up her own litters the best. Sometimes only one or two of the 
most promising in the litters are left with the doe, in order 
that they may be larger, and more fit for exhibition or stock 
purposes, the others being destroyed or put out to nurse. Be- 
tween the 15th and 18th day from birth, the young rabbits may 
be seen peeping out from their nest, which in a few days more 
may be moved, and the hutch given a thorough cleaning. If 
another well-ventilated equally warm hutch is ready to receive 
them, it will be found convenient to shift" the family bodily in 
order to allow the recently occupied hutch to be thoroughly 
cleansed and disinfected, and again made ready for use. When 
the young rabbits begin to leave their nest, they soon com- 
mence to feed with the mother, and when they are from six to 
eight weeks old, they may be removed from her. Taking away 
one or two of the stronger ones each day is perhaps the best 
plan, as this gradual removal seems better to dry up the milk; 
and when all the family are removed, a little salt in the does 
food will be benelicial, as it tends to dry up any milk that re- 
mains. With good feeding, she may in ten days again visit 
the buck, although a few extra days of delay are an advantage 
to a doe which has brought up a large litter. The young rab- 
bits may be allowed to run together until four months old, 
but after that age should be separated, for they are rather pug- 
nacious, especially the bucks, and require a hutch for each 
sex, and even then they will frequently quarrel and fight. In 
a few weeks' time it is the safest method to give each buck a 
hutch to himself, for to allow them to remain together is to 
run the risk of their injuring each other, and totally destroy- 
ing their usefulness for stock purposes, The does are less 

3 H 



quarrelsome, and half a dozen of them may remain together 
until selected for pairing. 

The males may be told from the females by a careful exami- 
nation of their bellies. 'Ihe spots where teats are to grow are 
distinguishable upon the female. 

When from eight to ten weeks old, young rabbits pass 
through a moult. This is a critical time, during which they 
require extra care, but after that period is over they will prob- 
ably thrive, with the proper attention. For the first few weeks 
at least, they should have a liberal supply of crushed oats, 
carrots, turnips, etc., will be a safe diet; and the warm mash, 
sweet hay, and plenty of fresh (not cold) air, must be freely 
given. This last is highly important, as a great proportion of 
the deaths of young rabbits are attributable to the want of 
fresh air, and to want of cleanliness and due care as to the 
right kind of food. Giving improper food is an error common- 
ly committed, young rabbits being more frequently seen suffer- 
ing from the effects of injurious food than from a super-abun- 
dance of the right kind. Only a very small percentage of the 
rabbits should be lost, except from an epidemic or a series of 
accidents. Young rabbits consume a great deal more food 
than the matured ones, in proportion to their size, and al- 
though they are constantly eating, they will not injure them- 
selves, for they have to provide for the building up of their 
frames, and not merely to maintain them, as is the case with 
adults. Very few will suffer from pot belly if ciie food be good, 
and given in proper proportion. The quantity to be given to 
half a dozen ten or twelve week-old rabbits will soon be ascer- 
tained. Young rabbits are very fond of scratching their food 
out of the dish, and the latter should, therefore, be so con- 
structed as to prevent such waste. There are many kinds of 
troughs which may be devised to prevent waste of food, and 
secure individual, orderly eating. 



4 H 



LESSON NINE. 

Experiences in Breeding 

When to Select Young Belgians — February and March Best 
Months for Pairing — How to Tell When the Doe is Going 
to Litter — Stud Book Always Should Be Kept — Length and 
Weight of Doe Should Regulate Time to Breed — How to 
Breed so as to Get Extra Long Hares — Importance of 
Knowing the Peculiarities of Strains — Practical Points in 
the Care of the Young— Dutch Does Make Excellent Fos- 
ter Mothers — Good Does and the Finest Bucks the Cheap- 
est to Begin — Bucks if Used Too Young Stop Growth — 
How to Deceive Does When a Change of Litters is Neces- 
sary — Sure Remedy Against Mice — Good and Bad Milkers 
— Reducing the Number of the Litter — How to Feed and 
Treat a Nursing Doe — Importance of Good Bucks — Care 
of Young Left to Does for Two Weeks — When Six Weeks 
Old the Young May Be Taken from Mother and Placed in 
Separate Hutches — Evils of Too Frequent Kindling of 
Doe — Too Early Weaning of Young Causes Slobbers — 
When Marking Must Be Resorted To. 
No. 300: — "Breeding stock should be bought with care an;l 
judgment, as on this will depend the future success of the rab- 
bitry. The selection of young rabbits from four to six months 
old is advised, as they have then passed through their iirst 
moults, which are often so fatal to them. It is not desirable 
to pair rabbits too young, as experience shows that, when fully 
grown, or nearly so, they have greater strength, and the 
breeder gains in quantity of the progeny what he would seem 
to have lost in number by not having had litters when the 
does were two or three months younger. It need hardly be 
added that, the more perfect and healthy the pair is, the 
greater the certainty of good litters. The buck and the doe 
should not be together in the same hutch many minutes. For 
pairing, the months of February or March are the best to in- 
sure healthy stock. Yet, when rabbits are kept in warm, 
healthy hutches, they may litter at any time during the year, 
though it is not desirable. Four litters during the 12 months 
are ample; and if any longer time than three months be al- 
lowed between any litter, it should be during the coldest 
weather, when it is decidedly advantageous to give ttie does 
(especially old ones) a little extra rest. During the inclement 
weather of January, extra care and warmth and feeding must 
be given to does with young, or which are about to kindle, and 

1 I 



any little additional attention will be amply repaid by the 
health of both mother and offspring. When within a few days 
of the time for littering, the doe will furnish sufficient evi- 
dence of the fact by biting the straw of her bedding into short 
pieces, and carrying it and the hay- -of which she should have 
an abundance in her mouth to some favorite corner of the 
hutch. As soon as this is observed, the hutch should be at 
once cleaned and disinfected, for this will be the last thorough 
cleansing it will have for some time. The precise day of kin- 
dling will be known by reference to the stud book, in which are 
entered the dates of the various does visiting the buck. This 
stud book should always be kept, and, in addition, it is a good 
plan to fix to each hutch labels of wood or of slate, 2 and 1-2 
inches square, bearing dates corresponding to those in the stud 
book. The book should also give the number brought forth 
at each litter, and it thus becomes a valuable record of the 
yearly total produced by the doe. The hutch labels can be 
easily cleaned and prepared for other dates as required. This 
plan is by far the best, and the least trouble, as by it you at 
once can see when the interesting event may be expected." 

No. 301 — "The length and weight of a doe should regulate 
the time to breed. As a general thing, a doe snould not be 
bred until she weighs at least eight pounds, and has an alto- 
gether racy appearance. If you are breeding for the fancy, and 
wish those extra long hares, wait until both buck and doe are 
eight months old. An important part is to mate the doe to a 
buck that is strong in those parts where the doe shows a weak- 
ness, and vice versa This will tend to eliminate the defects 
of both the parent stock in the offspring. Another point: The 
foundation stock should be of some good pedigreed strain. 
This is all important. Fortune never smiles on the haphazard 
breeder. One must know what the particular marking strain 
has accomplished in the past, and the proper way to keep 
posted in the matter is to have a complete record of your 
stock. One strain may be weak in a certain point, and often- 
times reproduce it with startling regularity. To avoid this, 
you must know to a certainty what other strain you mate to 
that is free from this weakness, or you will never reach the 
top round of success. Thus you may readily see the impor- 
tance of pedigrees. In selecting your brood doe, the lirst prop- 
erty to receive attention is color. She should have a rich red 
coat, rather inclined to a dark shade, should be of good length, 
not too fat, and her coat possess a lustre. She must have good 

2 I 



under as well as top color. Next, for consideration comes 
shape. The doe should be of good size, long bodied, and limbs 
as fine as possible. The more nearly perfect your doe in this 
respect, the better your chances for getting shapely young- 
sters. If it is not the lot of the doe to possess the desired 
color, be sure you get the fine front and gracefully rounded 
haunches at least, as in the transmission of this property she 
is very strong. Taken as a whole, your brood doe should have 
good length of body, be fine limbed, have plenty of ticking and 
ear lacing, well colored front and hind legs, rich body color, 
slim, neat head, eye large and full. Let the buck be a shade 
lighter, but possessed of good general body color carried well 
down the sides and haunches. Don't tolerate the grayish coat 
for a moment. The fore legs should be free from ticking, and 
the hind feet well colored up to the hock. He should possess 
good shape and be of lively disposition. Try and get a buck 
with as lean a head as possible. It has been found that a 
young buck is best to transit this property. You will also get 
more vigorous and lively progeny from such an animal. To 
sum up, your buck must be of the highest excellence, being 
particularly strong in head properties. When bred, the doe is 
placed in the hutch where she is to rear her young, which are 
supposed to arrive after 30 days have elapsed. During gesta- 
tion she should be provided with nourishing food. About a 
week before the family is expected, place a handful of clean, 
soft straw in the doe's hutch, with which she is to build her 
nest. She may not use it immediately, but don't worry; just 
allow her to pursue her own course. Water vessels and feed 
cans should be fastened to the side of the hutch, as she some- 
times sees fit to use these also. Fresh water should be kept 
continually before a bred doe, as an abnormal thirst is appar- 
ent at the time of kindling. For best results, she should be 
kept as quiet a& possible during the whole period of pregnancy. 
Look into the nest box after the doe has kindled and ascertain 
if any dead are present; also note the number of youngsters. 
Any undesirable ones may be killed. In case of 10 to 14, a 
nurse doe is necessary. She can be a cull Belgian or a common 
white or Dutch rabbit, and both being bred at the same time 
will kindle together. If the nurse is needed, her young may be 
destroyed and those of the pure bred Belgian divided between 
the two. The doe possesses accommodation for but eight 
young, and it would be the height of folly to allow her to 
raise more. Better results are obtained by allowing but six 

3 I 



youngsters to a doe. An important point to be observed in 
rearing the youngsters is the feed and care of the nursing doe. 
She requires milk -producing feed, such as carrots, peas or any 
of the numerous succulent plants which abound on all sides. 
Bear in mind, she not only has to supply nourishment for her 
own body, but also a /-,ood-sized family. Plenty of food should 
be before her at all times, that she may help herself when so 
inclined. Too much stress cannot be placed upon this point, 
and if you desire quick maturing, vigorous stock, give proper 
attention in this respect. A little bread and milk is much rel- 
ished by a nursing doe and aids her in supplying nourishment 
for the youngsters. This may be fed two or three times a 
week if convenient. At the age of tAvo or three weeks, the 
youngsters begin to show themselves. They may be rather 
timid at first, but this soon wears off as they become ac- 
customed to their surroundings. At this time, it is well to 
place a small dish, or box of dry bran, before the entrance to 
the nest box. This not only encourages their remaining out 
and enjoying a breath of fresh air, but it is also an excellent 
feed. Of course, other feed, such as oats, alfalfa hay, etc., will 
answer the same purpose. The youngsters may, under ordi- 
nary circumstances, be weaned at the age of six weeks. They 
should by this time, have a good start and be able to look out 
for themselves. Give them a good runway, say six to ten feet 
long by two to three feet wide, so they may exercise and 
lengthen out. This also promotes early maturity and aids 
their attaining that racy appearance so much coveted by all 
real fanciers. At the age of ten weeks, separate the bucks, 
as they may cause much mischief if allowed to remain with 
the does. If raising stock for market, caponize the bucks when 
about four months old. They will fatten quicker and make 
much better meat if this method is followed. Always keep the 
little ones covered with the fur provided by the mother until 
they begin to grow their own coat. Keep your young hares 
until they are about three months old before you sell them, 
and both you and the purchaser will get a fair idea of what 
they are going to look like when grown." 

No. 302 — "It is always better to breed from rabbits aged 
about ten or twelve months, for the offspring are generally 
much stronger and get on a great deal faster. The young 
fancier should always put the doe to the buck, and never the 
buck to the doe, and the latter should remain only a few min- 
utes in his hutch. The spring time is always the best season 

4 I 



to pair the does, although, if a rabbitry is kept warm and com- 
fortable, litters may safely be reared, but never as well as in 
the months of February, March and April. I generally allow 
my best does to have only two litters in the year, while the 
second-rate ones have three. I always take care that my does 
suckle only about three, and in some cases four, but never any 
more, so that the young ones — if tee mothers are good milkers 
— become large ones, and if of the right exhibition color, they 
fetch a good price, and amply repay me for those I have de- 
stroyed. During cold weather, the doe and her young should 
be made warm and comfortal)le, and well fed on good food. 
Satisfactory results will then follow. I keep a few Dutch does. 
They are excellent mothers and very good milkers, and by this 
means all the litters from the other does are reared. When 
does are only allowed to breed two litters in the year, the 
young may remain with their mothers until they are almost 
through the moult, and I find that they thus do much better, 
and retain more strength in battling through, scarcely a young 
one being ever lost. The fancier should have his hutches cleaned 
for his does before they are about to kindle, and the time for 
kindling should be^ recorded in a stud book, so that the proper 
dates may not be overlooked. Mice should be kept out of the 
breeding hutches if possible, for breeding does do not like 
them, and often scatter their litters about the hutch floor, with 
the notion, no doubt, of protecting them. It is a good plan to 
bring a kitten up among the rabbits, and this can be done 
very safely by putting a new born kitten to a doe rabbit just 
kindled, for she will suckle and bring it up to a given period, 
and thus domesticated it will do the rabbits no injury when 
matured, but will only kill the mice in the rabbitry. Before 
the doe kindles, I take care to let her have a copious supply of 
cold water, because after kindling she becomes very thirsty, 
and if the thirst is not quenched, either in this way or by giv- 
ing succulent food, she may destroy her young to satisfy her 
craving. When I have my does in kindle. I am always mind- 
ful, in entering my rabbitry, especially with strangers, to go 
in quietly. Above all, keep strange dogs out of the rabbitry. 
or much alarm and mischief may occur. When my does kin- 
dle, I wait four or five days — unless I have Dutch foster moth- 
ers ready at the time — before I peep at them, because some 
does do not like their young ones disturbed; but some old 
breeders I have will look on while you examine the little fam- 
ily, apparently unconcerned and will, when you replace the 

5 I 



nest box, carefully inspect them and, finding all right, will 
leave them and retire into the feeding and sleeping compart- 
ment of the hutch. When young rabbits are with their moth- 
ers, aged about iu weeks, give them, if in summer, a little 
green food, such as dandelion, swine-thistle, grass, and foreign 
comfrey, plenty of oats, and a little good hay, and this will pre- 
vent them from having pot belly. The pot bellj'' in rabbits is 
caused by giving them, when so young, cabbage, lettuce, turnip 
tops and such detereious food. But the fancier should never, up- 
on any occasion, give them this kind of objectionable food. It is 
a very good thing to give young rabbits a little green parsley, 
which tends in many instances to prevent pot belly among 
them. During the whole of my experience, I have had only one 
case of this kind in my rabbitry: but scours I have had in 
abundance, but never after I gave up feeding on cabbage, let- 
tuce and turnip tops." 

No. 303 — "I would advise you to buy some good does to 
start with, and be sure they are pedigreed stock, and have 
them bred to the finest bucks possible. This is the cheapest 
way to begin. If your means are limited, buy a few really 
good does rather than a number of inferior ones. It certainly 
pays to get the best. A fine buck from imported stock, or im- 
ported himself, is always a good investment. They cost money, 
but bring in an income from the start. If you can't afford to 
buy a mature buck, a good way is to purchase a youngster 
from celebrated stock. In a few months he will be useful and 
profitable." 

No. 304 — "Belgian hares may be used at seven or eight 
months, but not before, if it can be avoided. Bucks that have 
been once used stop growth, and rarely improve in condition. 
I like an aged buck and a young doe, then we get by far finer 
specimens as far as ear and size go. I may add, for the infor- 
mation of amateurs, that they will often find rabbits born 
without hair (fur) while others will have quite long coats, like 
satin. I attribute the cause to the does being in ill-health, and 
kindling too soon after a previous litter. The young in this 
case always appear puny and delicate for days. I am of the 
strongest opinion that no rabbits of any class should be mated 
during their changing of fur, as this, I well know, interferes 
most unfortunately with their offspring's future coats. I never 
like to be without foster mothers (nurse does) and I like them 
to kindle a few days before (which is the best) or a few days 
after my valuable does do. Sometimes we are very glad to 

6 I 



obtain them even ten to 14 days after — that is, if we cannot 
procure them to suit us earlier. This is how I manage: I have 
say eight young in a litter. As soon as practicable, I take out 
the does, both the nurse and the valuable one — place them in 
hampers out of the way, and carefuuy select two or three of 
the young for each nurse doe, taking care to blow the fur of 
the nest off them, or the foster parents would smell it and see 
it, and instantly destroy them. I then put them in among the 
nurse does little ones, and placing some tempting food in then- 
run, I put back the does and then if they are left alone, they 
bring up the newcomers. On about the second or third day af- 
ter, I take away some of the nurse does own litter and destroy 
them, as the others thrive faster from the extra supply of milk. 
If litters are small, I do it at the time I put the others to their 
new mothers. At the ninth or 15 day after kindling, strike 
down the does again, and you will profit by it. I believe in a 
doe having young say six liuters annually. My object in keep- 
ing foster parents is twofold: I save the does health by al- 
lowing only a few of the young to be brought up, and they are 
then finer animals. The does will rest and they will bear off- 
spring till they are from four to six years old without much 
strain on their constitution." 

No. 305 — "A new enemy to the Belgian hare has come to 
the front lately. Several parties have told me they had entire 
litters just kindled, killed by mice. The only sure remedy 1 
can suggest is to cover the front of the breeding hutches with 
fly screen, and then go for the mice with traps and rough on 
rats. It is well for breeders to be on the lookout for mice. 
That reminds me that about one year ago one of our leading 
breeders was about to trade some hares i.or some fancy mice. 
His better half told him if he did, she would set a trap and 
kill all of them. He didn't trade. Some breeders seem to 
worry a great deal about 'what shall we do with our pelts?' or 
'is there a market or pelts?' That part of the business does 
not worry me a little bit. The fur clipped from a dry pelt, and 
put into the nest of a doe about due to kindle, if the weather 
is cold, is worth ten times what a dealer will pay for the pelt. 
Very few does will pull enough fur on a real cold night to keep 
the little ones from freezing. A little help goes a long ways 
to save the new born litter, which is worth dollars while the 
pelt is worth cents." 

No. 306 — "I never breed with sickly or ailing specimens 
but on the contrary strive to have my bucks as vigorous as 

7 I 



possible, and my does I like to have as large, as healthy and 
as well bred, as it is possible to have them. 1 also like to have 
manifested in my breeding does that kind, tractable disposi- 
tion which in almost all cases is the foreshadowing of a good, 
kind mother. I find great difference between doe rabbits with 
respect to suckling qualities. Some seem to be provided with 
better milk-giving qualifications than others and, by noticing 
and noting this, the next time they have young ones, if the 
bad milkers have large families, some of the youngsters can be 
taken away from them and given to nurse does. Dutch are a 
grand variety to keep as nurses, for this reason — they almost 
invariably have a great deal more rubbish than good ones. 
The bad ones can be killed and their places taken by offspring 
from bad milkers of other varieties. In all cases. I never allow 
my mothers to bring up more than four or five, and three is 
the better number. A few days (say three) before my does 
are due to kindle — the time for gestation running from 30 to 
34 days — I clean their hutches well out, sprinkle the floors 
plentifully with clean sawdust, and give a generous supply of 
sweet, soft meadow hay, and every day up to the time of 
kindling, a dish of clean, fresh water. After a doe kindles, 
wait for a couple of days and, first thing at morning, go gently 
to her hutch, take her out therefrom, place her in another 
hutch, previously prepared, give her a feed, and leave her until 
dinner time . Now take the next box out of the hutch, part the 
top of the nest, and take a peep into it. Take the inmates out 
gently one at a time, and place them in an old felt hat. You 
can then make a selection of what are wanted, place them 
back, and give the remainder, over which the above modus 
operandi has been performed to nurse does, and leave tnem. 
They will take no harm, as rabbits feed their young at night 
time. Consequently, the taking of the mother away till din- 
ner time will not injure them but, on the contrary, the 
changed young ones will have had time to get the smell of the 
new nest on them, and their mothers or foster mothers will not 
have their suspicions aroused. This is an important part of 
the business, and a little trouble is never lost over it, as many 
cases are known where, youngsters in the nest having been 
interfered with, the mother has deserted them. Let young 
ones stay with the mother until they attain the age of eight 
weeks and from the time of kindling feed the old doe as fol- 
lows: Morning, green meat, in summer time avid when ob- 
tainable — cabbage and cauliflower leaves, lettuce, dandelion, 

8 I 



swine thistle, etc.; winter season, good swede turnips or car- 
rots. Dinner time, all the year round, a feed of oats, or a mash 
made of fine shai'ps and bean meal, or pollard and barley meal, 
mixed up crumbly stiff with boiling water. Tea time, more 
green meat, and last thing at night, warm milk and bread. 
Continue to feed as above until the young ones are taken away 
from the mother, after which feed them, until they arrive at 
the ago of six months, three times a day in this wise: Morn- 
ing, oats; dinner time, green meat; tea time, mash. After six 
months, twice per diem will suffice, namely, morning and 
night; morning, green meat; night, dry meat. I change my 
description of green meat every week, and find the system 
very beneficial. If the foregoing directions are attended to, and 
the rabbits kept scrupulously clean— ^which is best done by 
thoroughly cleaning out by scraping and brushing (by coal 
rake and hand brush) everything of a dirty natui^e, freely 
sprinkling the floors with clean sawdust, and giving a handful 
of sweet hay every morning — no disease will occur, and no dis- 
agreeable smell will arise. And now I will give my treatment 
of suckling does and rabbits for exhibition. When the young 
ones have attained the age of eight months, I let the does visit 
the bucks, and am careful in setting down the exact date of 
visitation. On the evening bt tr.e 30th day of gestation, give 
each doe a feed of milk and bread, prepared as follows: Take 
a quantity of stale bread, pour over it boiling water, let it 
steep tor ten minutes, pour off the surplus water, and add, say 
a piut of new milk for every six or eight does. I continue this 
feed every night until the young ones are taken from the 
mother. For breakfast, I give either oats or bean meal and 
bran in equal qtiantities, and made into a mash (crumbly) 
with boiling water. Dinner, hay and carrots, or turnips, in 
winter, or green meat when procurable. 1 may add here, that 
1 never allow my does to bring up more than four, as quality, 
not quantity, should always be the object of the fancier. On 
the second or third day after birth, take the nest box out of the 
htitch and examine the yoimg ones. If a does has only two or 
three, then the number (four) can be made up from other dif- 
ferent lots. I have done this for years, and never had a mis- 
hap. A subject of much importance to all interested in the 
production of show stock is the prepotency of sires over dams, 
and consequent serious influence over offspring. Having 
mixed a great deal among fanciers of every description of prize 
animals and birds, I have found that 9J^ out of every 100 of 

9 I 



noted breeders arc men who have given the subject much con- 
sideration, and the result of their reasoning has led them to 
conclude that the male bird or animal is the chief con- 
sideration. I was lately in the bird room of a noted canary 
breeder and in the course of conversation, this very subject 
was reverted to, and he stated he was always very anxious to 
have the cock birds of the very best type of the breed he was 
endeavoring to produce in all the glory of the required char- 
acteristics. He also stated that he would rather pair good 
cocks and moderate (though well bred) hens, than good hens 
and moderate cocks, because he had proved, beyond doubt, that 
this mode of procedure ultimately gave the best results. In 
my own particular rabbit fancy, I find it of very little use hav- 
ing good dams unless T have grand sires. The influence of a 
first sire sometimes extends for generations, i. e., influence of 
previous sires over offspring by other sii-es out of the same 
dam." 

No. 307 — "In classing Belgians according to color, of course 
the best of us run a little off on color, from light and dark, 
and I can say that I have never had a white one thrown in my 
hutches, and few black. I do not consider the black a cull, but 
rather of great value in crossing with very light of the oppo- 
site sex, on the same order that a brindle dog will throw good 
points by a bitch which lacks them, no matter how well bred. 
I have had a clear rufous red doe vastly improved by mating 
with a black buck, when she did not do so by actual test with 
a light buck and also a splendidy ticked one. When an adver- 
tiser builds roomy hutches, constructs buildings to hold such 
and then gives a rabbit a separate hutch, it stands to reason 
that prices should advance on such. When the breeder takes 
pains to pedigree and rear stock not akin it is proof positive 
that that mode is more work, and in the end moi*e productive 
than crossing at large and letting stock run together on a 
farm, as some advertise. I soften the light in all my buildings 
by coloring the glass, so as not to effect the coats of my pets-- 
a simple matter which carries weight towards richness that 
the standard calls for. The best way for the young or old be- 
ginners to find the true colors of his pets, when in doubt, is to 
visit first class rabbitries or show rooms, or exhibit his stock 
and find which the judges give preference." 

No. 308 — "Some does will bieed when four months old, 
others will not breed until seven or eight months old. Then 
again, some does will be able to bring up six or eight young 

10 I 



ones, and keep them in good condition, while others will not 
be able to bring up above two or three. This can easily be as- 
certained when the yoving ones are two or three days old, and 
if you find they are not filled out weil with milk, kill some at 
the worst-marked ones to make room for the good ones. In 
these matters, beginners will have to use their own discre- 
tion." 

No. 309 — "Most of the fine exhibition and breeding stock 
in England has found its way here in exchange for American 
dollars. Pedigrees count for just this much, they give one an 
idea of what may be expected from the young stock in advance, 
by knowing what their ancestors were, for like produces like, 
though all young will not be prize winners though their fath- 
ers were. But to have good pedigrees is not all. To have ani- 
mals that fit their pedigrees is not all. The first requirement 
should be health, for the best animal that ever lived will de- 
generate into the veriest scrub if left to shift for itself. It is 
environment, food and attention that go as much to win 
prizes as does the long list of pedigrees and famous ancestors. 
All these things should be taken into consideration when buy- 
ing stock, and while it i§ a good plan to buy from the ac- 
knowledged fine show specimens the work has but commenced. 
Good domestic breeding animals can be had in this market for 
$10 up to $300, bred to the fine bucks that are so numerous 
here. One of the best ways to get a good start, and the way I 
started, is to get a few good breeding does, and as fine a buck 
as I could find." 

No. 310 — "From date of birth, the care of young hares is 
left to the doe until the young begin to feed, which will us- 
ually be about the fourteenth flay. If it is desired to push 
them forward, a little bread and milk once a day may be given. 
This may be alternated with plain corn bread or dry chop. 
These with oats, and now and then some oat flakes, will be 
found an excellent diet for the doe and young. At six weeks 
old, the young must be taken away from the doe and put in 
pens by themselves. After they are taken from the doe, the most 
critical time for the young begins, and for some weeks the 
greatest care should be taken to avoid errors of feeding. If 
the doe has not been used to green food, no green food should 
be given to the young until they are past three months old, 
and then very sparingly until they are made accustomed to 
it. No soft feed should be given to a specimen intended for 
show purposes, as its flesh will be flabby. The best results are 

11 I 



generally obtained by a strict dry food course. At three 
months old, the does and bucks must be separated and a rec- 
ord kept, so that they can be known and no mistake made as 
to parentage. This can be done by putting in separate pens, 
but then room is not always available and marking must be 
resorted to in ordei to avoid losing track of the parentage." 

No. 311 — "In their eagerness to 'get a lot of 'em and get 
'em quick,' as one amateur explained it, many breeders of Bel- 
gian hares are doing an irreparable injury to their stock. 
Breeding a doe when she is only four or five months old weak- 
ens her, and her olfspring start out with a constitution weak- 
ened and impaired, consequently, if sickness or disease over- 
takes them, they have little or no vitality to withstand the 
attack. A doe should never be bred before she is six months 
old, and it is better to wait until she is seven months old. 
When a doe has a family of more tiiau six, it is better to kill 
all above that number, as the six will grow rapidly, will be 
stronger and more vigorous than with eight, ten or a dozen 
in the nest. When a doe has an extra large family she will 
wean them at an earlier age than with a less number to suckle, 
and this is one prolific cause if slobbers in your hares. Being 
deprived of the mothers milk, and forced onto dry feed before 
their little stomachs are prepared for it, causes the food to be- 
come impacted in the stomach, which produces irritation and 
slobbers. A less number and better quality of stock will give 
better returns in tlie long run." 

No. 312 — "Looking for some Plymouth Rock fowls aoout a 
year ago, I stumbled onto a Belgian hare doe with eight two- 
year-old youngsters. She was a very pretty thing and at once 
won my interest, and learning that she was for sale I 
bought her and her family. Having an empty stall in the 
barn, I made that into two temporary pens and thus made 
bunnies quite comfortable. I next looked around for a good 
buck, and having found one to suit me I bred the doe. I soon 
found that if 1 would avoid trouble I must separate the 
youngsters, so put in another partition and commenced to 
separate according to sex, but to my great joy (for I had the 
breeding fever) found only one male. The next thing was to 
provide a suitable male to head this tribe, and an active search 
resulted in the finding of a very good specimen for which I 
exchanged my male, and I was ready for business on an inde- 
pendent scale. As soon as the young reached the age of five 
months, breeding commenced, and I had to look around for 

12 I 



more hutches, as I supposed each mother must have separate 
quarters. Dry goods boxes obtained at the nearest town for 
15 to 25 cents each seemed to supply this need nicely, and a 
little work in remodeling them made them quite comfortable. 
Well, here they come, three, live, six, seven and even nine at 
a clip, rabbits everywhere, but not atisfied with this, I here 
made my first fatal mistake by again breeding my does at 
once, and the result was that when the youngsters of No. 1 
most needed a mother's care, crop No. 2 was at hand, and crop 
No. 1 had to be pushed off to care for themselves, and the re- 
sult was a fatal check. But how about the mothers? Poor 
thngs, they resented the abuse in different ways, namely, the 
mothers of six, seven and nine had only one. three and four, 
while others abandoned the second litters entirely, and still 
others threw them out of the nest to perish, and instead of 45 
as at first, I only saved 17. Don't breed too soon. Six months 
of age is soon enough and two months between litters is little 
enough. Well, the old mothers had eight and six, so here I 
had 76 youngsters, and expectations of hundreds more, so 
wnen a man came along and offered me six dollars a dozen 
for them, I let them go and thought i had done well. Today 
I could sell them all for five dollars a pair, and doubtless 
many of them for double that, as I cannot near fill by orders 
for breeding stock. Don't sell too soon. So it goes, and I am 
still learning, but this I know, that a small cash investment 
in Belgian hares, a little time nights and mornings expended in 
their care and a small cash outlay for bran has netted me over 
one hundred dollars cash profit in one year, and I could sell 
my stock on hand for two hundred dollars more. I still have 
my Plymouth Rocks and credit them with leading me to the 
Belgians, but 1 have lost my interest n them." 



1S I 



LESSON TEN. 

Killing, Skinning, Dressing, Tanning 

How to Kill a Belgian by Twisting Its Neck, or by a Blow on 
the Head — How to Cut the Jugular Vein Properly — Do Not 
Soak in Water — How to Take the Skin Off Whole — How to 
Prepare the Carcass for Cooking — How to Slaughter a 
Large Number — How to Salt the Pelt — How to Clean Fur 
Soiled by Handling — Fur Used in the Manufacture of 
Boas, Muffs, Capes, Robes, Hats, Etc. — Description of the 
Hat-Making Machinery — Pelt of a Belgian Less Than bne 
Year Old Not Sought by the Furrier — Market Price of Fur. 

ONE way to kill a Belgian hare is by twisting its neck, a 
skillful operation. 
An operator of training will kill a Belgian thus in the 
twinkling of an eye. 

Perhaps the best way for the inexperienced breeder is to cut 
the throat with a sharp knife, severing the jugular vein. 

Even in the case of a Belgian killed by neck twisting, the 
throat should be cut. 

Some butchers kill by striking a blow on the head. 

The blood settles and coagulates at the spot where the blow 
lands, but it is a small spot. 

After the throat is cut, the carcass should be hung head 
downwards to drain out the blood. 

The entrails should be removed only just before you are 
ready to cook. All game tastes better after it has been kept 
for a day or two and allowed to "ripen," or acquire the gamy 
flavor so much prized by epicures. 

After paunching, it is not necessary to soak the hare in 
water. Simply wipe it out with a clean cloth. The flavor is 
thought by some to be impaired by washing. Soaking in 
water draws out the blood, which you wish to keep in the 
flesh, and extracts other nutritious value also. 

To take the skin off whole, cut from hock joint to hock 
joint across vent and draw the pelt off over the head and cut 
off at a point back of the ears; or. if the ears are to be left on 
the pelt, let the cutting be done on a line extending around to 
point of nose. Then place the pelt on a stretcher made of half- 
inch board six inches wide at the top and four inches at the 
bottom. Cut this in two parts, from end to end. Stretch the 
pelt over the two, place edges together and rub salt over the 
pelt when fresh, and then sprinkle with powdered alum and 
allow to dry. When about dry, remove from boards and rub 

1 J 



with the hand until dry. The slvin will then be as soft and 
pliable as buckskin. Place the pelts where there will be plenty 
of fresh air. yet not in the direct rays of the sun. 

Then, to prepare the carcass for cooking, slit the belly 
lengthwise and remove all the intestines. The liver, heart 
and kidneys are to be saved, also the head, if it is desired, 
after the eyes have been removed. The kidneys may be left 
attached to the carcass of preferred. 

If you are likely to have a number to dress, from time to 
time, have a suitable place to do the work and be prepared in 
this manner: First, take two pieces of board, four by eighteen 
inches. Nail these together in the form of a trough, with 
open ends. Nail four pieces for legs to raise the trough suffi- 
ciently high so you can work over it without bending down. 
'1 he legs can be set up like those of a saw buck, as the crosb 
legs in that way will prevent tipping over easily. Have a hook 
up on a rope about five feet from the ground. Set a pail under 
one end of your trough, or killing rack, to catch the blood, 
and you are ready to be_gin operations. Take your hare, draw 
one foreleg back between the two hind ones and with a stout 
cord secure them in this position. This positively secures 
them so they cannot kick around and get blood all over their 
fur. Place the hare on its back in the killing rack, with head 
hanging over the pail. With one hand twist the head to one 
side by the ears and with th*"- other hand strike a smart blow 
with a stout stick just behind the ears. Pass a sharp, narrow- 
bladed knife clean through the neck where the jugular vein 
lies, without cutting the skin. Clean out on front of throat. 
Through this hole the hare will bleed plentnfully and the fore- 
leg which has been left free will work back and forth and 
pump out every drop of blood from the heart. When dead, 
unfasten the legs, cut the skin around the first joint of the 
hind legs and slit the skin on the inside of the thigh to tail, 
work it from the hind legs and slit the skin on the inside of 
the thigh to tail, work it from the hind legs, then tie the hind 
legs together securely and hang the hare up. Pull the skin 
down over the entire length of body, working out fore-legs, 
and skin down over the head. Remove entrails, saving liver 
and heart, and wash out carcass with clean, cold water. Let 
hang a few minutes to drip. The head should be cut off, as to 
many women it is repulsive looking after being skinned. The 
heads are very nice eating when boiled tender in salted water 
and served with Spanish sauce. When not used in that way, 

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the skull can be broken and the brain removed. The brain 
mak.es a dainty morsel when fried in butter. 

Alter tne hide is removed, apply common table salt to the 
rtesh parts and rub in well with tne hand or an old cloth, i'nis 
lb vvnat caus.es the hair to remain intact on tne pelt. The salt 
strikes through and binds down the epidermis in which the 
roots ot the liair are fixed, and if the salt is not allowed lo 
btriice directly upon tne nesh side of the skin at all points, 
Liiese places wili soon oe denuded of lur. KoU the skin up 
nesii to rtesh, and allow it to remain a day or two, and if upon 
examination tne second ,day any soft spots are to be found, 
baa again and work well Witn tne hands, ine pelt should 
now be scraped wiin a knife to remove all flesh and fat. The 
skin should be thoroughly relaxed before scraping. After 
relaxing and scraping, place the hide in a solution of one pare 
salt and four parts water, to wnich, when the salt has become 
thoroughly dissolved, add a few drops of suiphuric acid. Care 
should be taken in handling the acid, as it is a deadly burning 
poison. Allow the skin^ to remain in this solution for a few 
days, after whch remove and cleanse witn water and partially 
dry. Then the real labor comes in. Work the skin while in a 
semi-moist condition, stretching and pulling in all directions 
and working it into a flexible condition. Should the skin 
become dry before thoroughly worked, apply a little fresh 
water on the flesh side. Never work the skin when dry, as it 
is very brittle and tears easily. A good way to break all the 
hbres is to rub over a square corner of some hard substance, 
such as a planed plank or an iron bar. This leaves the skin 
soft. 

If the hair becomes soiled by handling, it may be cleaned 
with gasoline or a very weak solution of oxalic acid. Be very 
careful not to have the oxalic solution too strong. Use about 
one ounce of oxalic acid to two quai-ts of water. Allow the 
acid to dissolve thoroughly before using. 

The pelts of the common rabbit cannot be used in the man- 
ufacture of fur garments as the skin is tender, and while 
dressing comes off in pieces, and is therefore almost useless 
for that purpose. The skin of the Belgian hare is the reverse. 
It is tough and comes off intact, and can be used in the manu- 
facture of garments, such as ladies' boas, muffs, capes, etc. 
The fur is also used in the manufacture of hats. The ma- 
chinery consists of a hollow cone of copper, of the size of the 
felt cones required by hatters. The cone is covered with per- 

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forations and it fts onto a metal shaft of the diameter of its 
base by means of a collar, which can be turned round by a 
belt, so as to carry the perforated cone with it. At the bottom 
of the metal sliaft is a fan, moved by machinery, which pro- 
duces a strong downward draught, so that *if the hairs are 
thrown against the cone, they are held tighlty by the currents 
of air through the perforations and as the cone revolves, its 
outer surface becomes entirely coated with the hair. When a 
sufficient thickness is secured, the smooth copper cone is 
easily drawn out, leaving a cone of wool, which is felted 
by the usual process of wetting, heating, etc. Another in- 
genious contrivance in this machine is to make the draught 
of air caused by the fan blow the rabbit fur forward to the 
cone so as to distribute it with an evenness which could not 
otherwise be obtained. The skins, after the hair has been 
removed from them, are sold to glue makers and are used, 
mixed with shreds of other skins, in the manufacture of glue 
and size. 

Admirable imitations of the rarer and more costly furs are 
made. The pelt of an an-imal less than a year old is not sought 
by the furrier, although when properly tanned it is suitable 
for rugs, capes, etc., and a buggy-robe made of the well- 
selected and well-tanned pelts of animals from five to seven 
months old, suitably lined, presents an elegant appearance. 
The pelts of young animals find a ready market in Chicago 
and New York, the price for the entire pelt, 10 to 25 cents 
per pound, being I'egulated by the amount and quality of the 
fur on it, fur of a good quality being worth 7.5 cents a pound. 



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LESSON ELEVEN. 

How to Caponize 

Caponizing Improves the Quality of the Meat and Also Econo- 
mizes Space — Take the Hare Out of Sight and Hearing 
of the Others — Two Operators Necessary, One to Hold 
and One to Cut — How to Manipulate the Knife — How to 
Scrape the Artery of the Scrotum so as to Prevent Loss 
of Blood — Apply Hogs' Lard or Vaseline, and No Water — 
Stitch with Needle and Thread May Be Taken — How to 
Perform the Operation Single Handed. 

MALE hares when caponized at the age of three montris, 
or thereabouts, when the testicles are developed, grow 
to an extra large size, weighing ten or twelve pounds, and 
their meat is better flavored. A large number can be kept 
in a single hutch without their fighting, therefore by caponizing, 
the breeder will economize his space. People prefer fat capon 
ized hare to eat just as they prefer fat caponized chicken. 

Do not caponize an ailing Belgian. Be sure he is sound and 
healthy. 

Before performing the operation, take the hare to a place 
ought of sight and hearing of the other hares, and make as 
little fuss about it as possible. 

Use a razor, or a very sharp knife. The knife is better. Make 
certain that it is chemically clean by dipping it in a disin' 
fecting solution, or "by passing it through the flame of an al- 
cohol lamp. Of course, do not heat the blade enough to draw 
the temper. 

It is best to have an assistant when performing the operation. 
Let him hold the Belgian in his lap, turning its back towards 
him and its rump towards you, and holding one front and one 
hind foot in each hand, spreading the legs apart, thus expos- 
ing the parts to be operated upon. 

Your assistant should have good nerves, and should grasp 
the hare flrmly, but not too tightly. If you decide to begin 
the operation, be sure and carry it through at once to a suc- 
cessful finish. 

Seize with the thumb and first two fingers of the left hand 
one of the testicles, which the animal will endeavor to draw 
up into his body. When you have succeeded in grasping it, 
divide the skin of the uter pouch, or scrotum, with a single 
stroke of the knife. It is necessary to cut deep enough to 
make a good-sized opening in the scrotum and in doing this 
the testicle will be laid open more or less. With the left hand 

1 K 



take the testicle tVom the scrotum, drawing it out about two 
inches With the knife separate the artery and the spermatic 
cord, cutting upward, and leaving a little, pea-shaped bulb on 
the end of the spermatic cord. Then cut between this bulb 
and the testicle, allowing the cord to drop and return to the 
scrotum. 

Next commence about two inches from the testicle to scrape 
on the sides of the artery downwards with the edge of the 
knife, making a light and slow drawing stroke, touching the 
artery a little lower or nearer to the scrotum with each stroke. 
Perhaps a dozen or twenty of these little fine cuts will be 
necessary to wear down before severing the artery, which 
should be done well down, close to the scrotum. In this way, 
but little blood will be lost, while if the artery is cut square 
off, much blood would be lost, and the hare might die. 

Repeat above operation with second testicle. 

The testicle on the left side should be taken out first. 

Apply a little hogs' lard or vaseline to the wound. If it is 
summer time, apply a little pine tar to keep the flies from 
doing injury. 

Do not put any water on the wound. 

The wound may be closed with a stitch from needle and 
thread, but this is not necessary. 

The wound ought to heal, and usually does, in four or five 
days. The percentage of loss by caponizing is very small. 

The operation may be performed single handed by placing 
the Belgian head downwards in the leg of an old boot, so as to 
confine its struggles. If you try this method, be sure a hole 
is cut in the foot of the boot so as to give plenty of air at the 
nose of the animal. Don't suffocate him. 

The best .job, however, is done by two, one to hold and one 
to cut, as described. 

Be gentle, but firm and quick, in performing this operation. 
The sooner it is over, the better for the Belgian. 



LESSON TWELVE. 

Cooking 

A Stuffing for All Occasions — Four Recipes for Roast Hare — 
Three Recipes for Boiled Hare — Four Recipes for Jugged 
Hare — Four Recipes for Fried Hare — Friccasseed — Salad-- 
On Toast — Croquettes — Patties — In Chile Peppers — Cur- 
ried — Pie — Liver Entree — Baked with Rice — Jellied — A La 
Creme — Hasenpfeffer. 

FOR stuffing, take the liver, heart and kidneys, cut them 
up and fry them in an ounce of butter over a low fire, 
with a teaspoonful each of minced onion and carrot, 
and a quarter of a pound of minced mushrooms. After 
five minutes of frying, moisten with a sherry glass of sauterne, 
and add half an ounce of glaze. Continue to cook slowly and 
as soon as the meat is soft, let it get cold, and then empty the 
contents of the sauce-pan into a moi'tar, pounding and passing 
the whole through a wire sieve. The puree thus obtained, 
seasoned with salt and pepper, should be stirred into a bowl 
with the usual six ounces of breadcrumb, minced or powdered 
herbs, zest of lemon, two ounces of butter and two eggs. Be- 
fore packing the hare with this, line the inside with thin 
strips of cooked streaky bacon. 

ROAST HARE (NO. 1). 
• Stuff as directed, or fill with veal forcemeat, sew up and 
truss. To truss properly, skewer the head tightly between 
the shoulders, and skewer the legs closely to the body. Fasten 
bacon on the back. Baste liberally while cooking. When 
partly done, dredge over with flour and baste again. Have the 
fire a hot one. Serve at once from oven, placing the bacon on 
a separate dish. 

ROAST HARE (NO. 2). 
Fill with oyster or bread dressing and sew up. Skewer the 
neck under the hindquarters and place in covered roasting 
pan. Mix butter and flour in a smooth paste and cover lightly 
over the hare. Add water as you would for any roast and bake 
from one to two hours, according to the age of the hare. Re- 
move cover the last twenty minutes and brown over nicely, 
garnish with cress or parsley. 

ROAST HARE (NO. 3). 

Place a layer of onions in the bottom of the pan, then a 

layer of the meat neatly cut. Add another layer of onions and 

alternate with meat until the pan is full. A double roaster 

is best, as it keeps the steam in more thoroughly. No water 

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is needed, as that is furnished by the onions. 

ROAST HARE (NO. 4). 
Prepare a stuffing by chopping fine one-quarter pound salt 
pork and a small piece of onion. Pour boiling water over six 
Boston craxkers, then chop with the pork, seasoning with 
sage, salt and pepper, adding what boiling water is necessary 
to moisten it, and stir in one egg. Wipe dry the hare, fill it 
with the stuffing and lard with small strips of halt pork. Allow 
20 mnutes for each pound when cooking. Put a piece of but- 
ter as large as an egg in a cup, fill with boiling water and use 
it to baste the hare while roasting. 

BOILED HARE (NO. 1). 
Skewer as heretofore directed. Put in kettle with enough 
hot water to cover. Boil until tender, time according to age. 
Dish and smother with mushrooms, onions, liver sauce or 
parsley and butter, as preferred. If liver sauce is used, boil 
the liver a little while and mince or rub through a sieve before 
adding the sauce. 

BOILED HARE (NO. 2). 
Slice one large onion, one chile pepper and four medium- 
sized tomatoes into a stew pan, and bring to a boil. Cut the 
hare in pieces and put in as soon as it boils; add one teaspoon 
of salt and enough hot water to cover. When nearly done, 
thicken with flour and add butter the size of an egg. 

BOILED HARE (NO. 3). 
Boil the pieces in a small amount of water, using a covered 
vessel to retain the steam. When thoroughly done, pour over 
a cream gravy to which has been added a little sherry. A flour 
gravy will answer if cream is not at hand. Serve hot. 

JUGGED HARE (NO. 1). 
Cut in pieces and season with pepper and salt. Fry brown 
and season with a little thyme and chopped parsley, nutmeg, 
cloves, mace, grated lemon peel, and add a couple of anchovies. 
Put a layer of the pieces in a wide-mouth jar, then a layer of 
thinly sliced bacon, and so on with alternate layers. Add two 
gills of water, cover and put in cold water, and boil three or 
four hours. Remove the jar, take out the unmelted bacon 
and make a gravy of a little butter, flour and ketchup. Some 
add a little grated lemon peel. 

JUGGED HARE (NO. 2). 
Skin, wipe with a towel dipped in boiling water to remove 
the loose hairs, di-y thoroughly and cut in pieces. Stew with 
pepper and salt. Fry brovm. Season with two anchovies, a 

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sprig of thyme, a little chopped parsley, nutmeg, mace, cloves 
and grated lemon peel. Put a layer of the pieces with the 
seasoning into a wide-mouth Jug or jar, then a layer of bacon, 
sliced thin, and so on till all is used. Add a scant half-pint of 
water. Co\er the jar close and put in cold water. Let it boil 
two or three hours, according to the age of the hare. Take 
the jar out of kettle. Pick out the unmelted bacon and make a 
gravy of a little butter and flour, with a little catsup. A tea- 
spoonful of lemon peel will heighten the flavor. 
JUGGED HARE (NO. 3). 

Cut in pieces and place in a stone jar. Pill the space be- 
tween meat pieces with veal and bacon, a pound each, cut to 
dice; mix with liver of hare, also cut fine; add a teaspoonful 
each of mace, cloves and black pepper and salt. Place thin 
slices of bacon on top. Cover with a lid of plain paste made 
of flour and water. Set the jar in pan or pot containing 
water, and bake in slow oven. Keep from burning by placing 
a greased paper over the paste. Put no water to the meat. 
When done, set away to cool, then pound pieces of the hare, 
bacon and veal to a pasts, mix in gravy from the bottom when 
boiled almost dry. Add more seasoning when needed. Press 
solid into cups or small jugs, covering top with melted butter, 
and set away in a cool place. 

JUGGED HARE (NO. 4). 

Bone a hare and cut in small pieces. Cut also an equal 
weight of fat and lean ham, put in a stew-pan with a little 
butter. One cup of stock, pepper, salt, allspice and mace. Let 
it draw for an hour over a slow fire, then add a pint of port 
wine and boil very gently until the liquor is reduced to a glaze. 
Pound the meat tender in a mortar till very smooth. Add sea- 
soning if required. Pack closely in small porcelain pots. Pour 
a tablespoonful of clarified butter into each, and place in a 
slow oven for half an hour. When cold, fill up the pots with 
clarified butter. This will keep a month in a cool place. 
FRIED HARE (NO. 1). 

Cut into joints, salt and roll in flour. Drop the pieces into 
boiling fat (butter and sweet lard), turning frequently the 
first few minutes. Then let fry more slowly for about 20 
minutes, or until satisfied it is well done. Pile on platter and 
garnish with sliced tomatoes, stuck through with sprigs of 
parsley. For frying, select hares about three months of age, 
and always let stand over night before using. 

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FRIED HARE (NO. 2). 

Use equal parts of lard and beef suet and have it deep 
enough to cover the hare. Cut in pieces. Roll in flour and 
fry in tne boiling fat, turning frequently, and keep covered 
until nearly done, salting lightly after the first turning. 
FRIED HARE (NO. 3). 

Dress a hare not over three months old. Cut it up, roll each 
piece in flour, pepper and salt, and fry as you would chicken, 
until nicely browned on both sides. Use butter and any kind 
of frying fat. Keep tightly covered when frying. When 
nicely browned, raise the cover and add a spoonful of water 
to preven,t burning. Continue to add a little water as needed, 
keeping cover close. Cook three-quarters of an hour. 
FRIED HARE (NO. 4). 

Soak the hare over night in equal parts of salted vinegar 
and water. Put one-fourth cup of butter in a frying pan, add 
a sliced onion ana fry till a light brown. Wipe the hare with 
a dry cloth, put in the pan and cover with claret, letting it 
simmer slowly for two or three hours. 

FRICASSEED HARE. 

Lay the pieces in cold water a little while, drain well and 
place in saucepan with pepper and thin slices of pickled pork. 
Cover with water and let simmer for 30 minutes. Add chopped 
onion and parsley, a blade of mace and a clove or two if liked. 
Make a smooth flour paste, stir in and let simmer until meat 
is tender, then add half a cup of cream. If two thin, add more 
flour. Boil up once and serve hot. 

HARE SALAD. 

Salt the hare and boil until tender, then shred very fine. Do 
not hash. Have ready your salad plates with fresh, crisp 
lettuce on each, and arrange thereon the shredded hare in a 
tasty manner. Sprinkle over with apple or any variety of 
chopped nuts. When ready to serve, add the following dress- 
ing: Place on the stove and heat one cup vinegar and water, 
equally proportioned, to which add piece of butter the size of 
a walnut. Beat up one egg, to which add heaping teaspoonful 
flour, one teaspoon mustard, dissolved in water, two table- 
spoonfuls sugar, salt and pinch of cayenne pepper. Heat vine- 
gar and water to boiling point, add slowly the other ingredi- 
ents. Thoroughly mix and stir constantly until thick. Set 
aside and when cool thin with sweet cream. 
HARE ON TOAST. 

In a chafing dish put a tablespoonful of butter. In this fry 
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one-half an onion sliced finely. Stick the other half full of 
cloves. Roll young hare (previously cut in small pieces) in 
flour and fry a delicate brown. Then add sufficient water to 
cover, meat and allow to simmer gently, adding water when 
necessary. The remaining half of onion, one scant half-tea- 
spoon of allspice, cinnamon, three or four bay leaves, one 
small wine glass claret, salt and pepper to taste. If liked, 
throw one or two red peppers into boiling salted water for a 
few minutes, scrape out the inside of peppers and add. When 
done, thicken with a little flour and serve with slices of deli- 
cately browned toast. 

HARE CROQUETTES. 

Put a lump of butter the size of an egg in a saucepan over 
the fire and when hot stir in a teaspoonful of flour. Add cup 
of milk and when thick remove to cool. Pour over one pint 
finely chopped hare, into which has been stirred one beaten 
egg. Season with salt, pepper and a very little of onion. Shape 
in cones, roll in fine cracker crumbs and drop in smoking fat, 
frying a light golden brown. Arrange in rows on hot platter, 
sticking a sprig of parsley in top of each croquette. 
HARE PATTIES. 

Use the whitest meat and mince fine with suet. Braise the 
bo nes and cook in a stewpan with salt, pepper, nutmeg, grat- 
ed lemon peel, etc., and et simmer until the fiavor is secured. 
Thicken with flour and butter and stew until quite hot. 
Bake the patties in patty pans and half fill with the mince. 
Put on covers. The whole process will take about an hour. 
HARE IN CHILE PEPPERS. 

Select one-half or a dozen of large smooth green chile pep- 
pers. Lay inside the oven until wilted. Then with a fine 
knife, remove the shiny outside. Also cut one side open and 
remove seeds and veins. Lay a few moments in ice water, 
then dry and fill with finely minced hare, seasoned any way 
to suit individual taste. Lay filled peppers side by side in 
fancy dish and grate white cheese over ail. 
CURRIED HARE. 

Cut into joints and place in stewnan with two tablespoon- 
fuls of drippings, or butter, and sliced onions to suit. Brown 
well and add a pint of soup stock. Mix a tablespoonful each 
of fiour and curry, until smooth, in a little water. Place in a 
pan and add pepper and salt and a teaspoonful of mushroom 
powder. Let simmer for an hour or so. Add juice of half 
a lemon and a little parsley. Serve with boiled rice piled 

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around it on side of platter. Water instead of soup stock 
may be used if the latter is not at hand. 
HARE PIE. 
Cut in pieces and boil until nearly done. Make a crust al- 
lowing a half cup of shortening, a half teaspoonful of baking 
powder and a teaspoonful of salt to a quart of flour. Roll to 
a quarter inch. Line the sides but not the bottom of a deep 
dish with the paste; fill with the meat, season with butter, 
salt and pepper. Fill with the liquor in which the hare was 
boiled, dredging over with flour. Cover with a thick crust and 
bake three-quarters of an hour. 

HARE PIE, RAISED. 
Cut hare in small pieces and season to taste with salt, pep- 
per and nutmeg. Cut half a pound of bacon to dice, and when 
the raised crust is made, place in dish with the meat and inter- 
sperse yolks of three or four eggs. Pour over the top tomato 
sauce or some good gravy. Cover with pastry, brush with 
egg, and ornament if you wish. Bake in moderate oven until 
a skewer may be thrust through to the bottom — about an hour 
and a half. Serve either hot or cold. 

HARE LIVER ENTREE. 
Boil the liver until tender and cut into pieces. Make a 
brown gravy and pour over the pieces. Garnish with mush- 
rooms. 

HARE BAKED WITH RICE. 
Cut up a hare. Stew gently in stock or water, with enough 
tomatoes to equal the amount of stock, and three green chile 
peppers, emptied of seeds and sliced fine. Salt to taste. While 
the hare is stewing, boil a cupful of rice in a quart of water, 
also boil one dozen eggs until hard. After the hare is about 
half cooked, line a baking dish, suitable for the table, with 
part of the cooked rice. Place the hare on the dish, with alter- 
nate layers of eggs, peeled and sliced. Pour over this the 
sauce, unstrained, and cover with a layer of rice and sliced 
eggs pressed well into the rice. Pour on the top half a cup of 
melted butter or thick sweet cream, and bake in a slow oven 
half an hour and serve hot. 

JELLIED HARE. 
Boil until the meat falls from the bones, and leave in the 
water over night. In the morning chop fine, season with but- 
ter, pepper and salt, and press in a mould until firm. Or, boil 
tender, cut in small pieces and season with salt and pepper. 
Add half a box of gelatine soaked in cold water to the liquor 

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(not less than a quart) in which the hare was boiled. Strain 
through thin muslin and when it begins to thcken add the 
meat. Put n moulds and place on ice to harden. 
HARE A LA CREME. 

Clean and cut up the hare. Melt two tablespoonfuls of 
butter, fry it in a small onion, minced, then fry the hare until 
a light brown. When well colored remove the hare and add 
to the butter an equal measure of corn starch. Stir until 
smooth, then add milk to make a thin sauce. Place the hare 
in a baking pan. Pour over it the sauce, strain and bake in the 
over until thoroughly done. 

HASENPFEFFER. 

Cut a hare in eight pieces and place in a jar with two or 
three sliced onions, a level tablespoonful of salt, teaspoonful 
of black pepper, half a teaspoonful of celery seed and allspice, 
and two bay leaves. Cover with vinegar. Let stand in a cool 
place for three days. Then place all in a saucepan, add a cup 
of water, and cook slowly one hour after it boils. Thicken 
the broth with flour or corn starch and serve. 



LESSON THIRTEEN. 

How to Cure Ailments 

Prevention Is Better Than Cure — Symptoms and Treatment 
of Abscess, Loss of Appetite, Colic, Constipation, Diarrhoea 
(or Scours), Canker in Ear, Excess of Ear Wax, Eruptions. 
Cold in Eyes, Sore and Swollen Eyes, Festers, Soreness 
Of Hocks, Inflammation of the Womb, Insects, Liver Dis 
ease (or Rot), Mange, Matted Hair, Moulting, Sore Mouth. 
Paralysis, Pot Belly (or Dropsy), Scurf, Slobbers, Snuffles. 
Tumor, Caked Udder, Red or Unnatural Color of Urine. 

AS to diseases, remember that prevention is better than 
cure. 
By following the instructions on sheltering and feed- 
ing, and, above all. by attending to the cleanliness of the 
hutches, disease will be avoided. 
Successful breeders seldom have sick or ailing hares. 
Sick Belgians are the exception, not the rule. 
Be sure you do not buy diseased hares. 

If one of your stock appears to be ailing, give it your careful 
attention, isolating it from the others, and keep at it until a 
cure is effected. 

Intelligent care and a few simple remedies are all that is 
needed. 

The following instructions are given so as to acquaint the 
breeder with what may happen to his stock. 

Read over the lesson at your leisure and get the symptoms 
fii-mly fixed in your mind so that you will know how to do 
the right thing when the emergency comes. 
ABSCESSES. 
Symptoms: A hard lump on the surface of the body, ac- 
companied by increase in temperature and tenderness of the 
part. As it progresses it becomes soft. 

Treatment: Procure a sharp penknife and before using 
pass it through the flame of a lamp, or gas jet, to kill bacteria 
which may be on its surface, wiping it clean. Wash the knife 
blade and your hands in a disinfectng solution, say water in 
which a teaspoonful of carbolic acid has been mixed. Open the 
abscess with the pen knife and squeeze out the matter. After- 
wards bathe with warm water in which disinfectant has been 
mixed. The wound shou Idbe kept open for a couple of days 
or it will gather again. It is advisable to keep the hair 
around the abscess cut short, or it will be come matted with 
the discharged pus. If the abscess matures slowly, it may be 

1 M 



assisted by hot fomentations or a stimulating liniment. 
Flowers of sulphur may be advantageously mixed with the 
food. Plenty of new milk should be given, as often as the 
rabbit will not eat anything. Bread may be added to the milk 
if the patient will eat it. 

APPETITE, LOSS OF. 

Symptoms: Patient sits in corner of hutch and refuses 
food, or eats sparingly. 

Treatment: This ailment is usually the first symptom of 
more serious trouble. A little stimulant may be used, such as 
a slice of toast soaked in ale. But if this be refused, the ale 
may be warmed, and two tablespoonfuls given twice a day, 
and probably two days of such attention will accomplish all 
that is required; or, instead of ale, elderberry wine will be 
found beneficial. When eating is resumed, supply a little 
bread and milk, carrots, oats, and other food most palatable; 
and a little extra care will still be needed for a few days 
longer. Condiments are sometimes useful in stimulating the 
appetite. Be guided by what appears to be the most likely 
cause, as the cure of any complaint will usually restore appe- 
tite. If the trouble does not arise from diarrhoea, the hare 
may be tempted by a little dandelion or milkweed. 

COLIC. 

Symptoms: Patient is restless and seems in pain. Belly is 
distended with wind. 

Treatment: The cause of colic is improper food. Put the 
patient on a diet of dry food and feed once a day a warm mash 
in which is a little salts and senna, and a few caraway seeds. 
CONSTIPATION. 

Symptoms: Absence of droppings. Patient sits quiet in 
corner of hutch and refuses food. Sometimes body i'i swollen. 

Treatment: The cause of constipation usually is too much 
dry food without sufficient drinking water. Keep the patient 
warm and dry. Supply it with green food. There is little fear of 
its not eating, though caution must be exercised in not allowing 
too much, and when it has accomplished its purpose, it must 
be gradually discontinued, and a return made to the genei'al 
mode of treatment and feeding. Should this vegetable diet 
fail to produce the desired result in a day or two, a more 
powerful remedy may be tried, as a little salt and water, which 
at this time will be drunk with a relish: or 12 dr. of Glauber 
salts may be dissolved in a pint of water, and two tablespoon- 
fuls given twice a day. Grenerally, three or four doses will 

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accomplish all that is requisite. Or the patient's hindquarters 
may be placed in a dish of hot water as hot as can be borne, 
for ten minutes. In severe cases, give a bowel injection of 
warm water and castor oil, in proportion of three tablespoon- 
fuls of the water to one of oil. 

DIARRHOEA, OR SCOURS. 

Symptoms: Loose, watery dung, irregular appetite. Caused 
by too much green food, or food wet or stale. 

Treatment: Place the patient in a warm and comfortable 
hutch, supply it with dry food — such as crushed oats and dry 
bran — with which mix a dozen crushed juniper berries; or 
mix a little oatmeal and pea meal into a stifi paste, as a more 
general diet for a short time, until a change is observed in the 
dung. In the dry oats and bran a powdered acorn of small 
size may be mixed with each feed. As this is a valuable 
astringent, no medicine chest for the rabbitry should be with- 
out it. Don't assist nature too violently by giving an excess of 
astringent. This will bring on constipation. When a favor- 
able discharge is seen, a little water may be given, say two 
tablespoonfuls every third day. Sweet hay will be found of 
advantage and will be eaten freely. At little ground cinnamon, 
given in new milk, is an excellent remedy. Care should be 
taken to apply the remedies on the first symptoms of the 
disease. Summer time is generally the season in which rab- 
bits are mo^t troubled, because of the absence of green food 
at hand. Cold water, and cold water and nitre, are recom- 
mended by some fanciers as almost certain cures in cases of 
of diarrhoea. 

EAR, CANKER IN. 

Symptoms: A thick, yellow discharge from the inside of the 
ear. The eye on the side of the head that is affected appears 
to be very weak, with a slight discharge. The patient loses 
condition and does not relish its food. The discharge from the 
ear arises from ulceration in the deep recess. 

Treatment: Clear out the discharge by a little pressure, 
using a sponge or soft rag soaked in warm water to which a 
little disinfectant has been added. Care must be taken that 
none of the water falls into the ear. When dry, apply a lotion 
of sulphate of zinc 12 gr., water 2 oz., wine of opium one dr., 
mixed. The head should be held on one side, and about half a 
teaspoonful of the lotion poured into the ear twice a day. 
Feed upon the best food. Extra care in this respect will be 
required, for if the patient becomes weak, the chances for its 

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recovery are very slight. Or (2) try mercurius trituration No. 
3, dose one gr. twice a day. Decrease the doses as impi'ove- 
ment takes place. Or (3) procure a one-foot length of rubber 
tube, one-eight inch internal diameter, and blow into the ear 
twice a day boracic acid powder, as much as would cover the 
surface of a dime, not piled up. Put the powder into the rub- 
ber tube with a spoon and small paper funnel, before blowing 
it into the Belgian's ear. 

EAR WAX, EXCESS OF. 

Symptoms: Accumulation of wax in the ear. Some seen 
never to have their ears made sore by it, but to have them 
always filled up with scabby excrescences clinging to the in- 
terior, and for which no positive cause can be assigned. With 
animals of the same litter, in the same hutch, and consequently 
with the same treatment, it will be found that some are per- 
fectly free and with ears always clean, while the others re- 
quire constant attention and treatment for the removal of the 
wax. The ears of all Belgians should be occasionally examined 
to see if they are free from such attacks. It has sometimes 
been thought that falling dust from an imperfect floor of a 
hutch overhead, which erect ears might receive, acted as an 
irritating cause, and formed the nucleus of the secretion, but 
experiments have not proved the truth of the supposition. 
When the ears are so encumbered, the rabbit seems to avoid 
being handled by them, and shrinks as with pain which is 
evidently experienced. 

Treatment: The most simple and effective remedy is to 
rmove or loosen the wax with the quill end of a feather, or 
other blunt, smooth instrument, avoiding the giving of pain 
as much as possible. Allow the rabbit to shake out the loose 
particles, and then sprinkle into the ear, as far down as possi- 
ble, flowers of sulphur. Repeat this two or three times, at in- 
tervals of three days, and probably without further aid from 
the quill, except it be to remove some large piece from the ear, 
the cure will be complete, and m.any months may elapse be- 
fore it is again necessary to repeat the treatment. Another 
remedy is to drop a little sweet oil of almonds into the ear 
twice a day, until the sores a'-e softened, and then remove 
them with a soft rag or sponge. Tf this leaves the ears inflamed, 
dress them with sulphate of zinc lotion, two grains of sul- 
phate to one ounce of water. 



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ERUPTIONS. 

Symptoms: The skin becomes scaly, and later small sores 
break out and the hair falls off. The eruptions appear at first 
sight like a white scruf, but upon examination little sores will 
be found, which cause the hair to come off. Impure blood 
and the impurity of the air in which the rabbit "lives fre- 
quently cause such appearances. The hair will grow again 
when the blood is purer and the skin free from the eruptions. 

Treatment: Apply to the sores either carbolated vaseline or 
white zinc ointment. Give a mild cathartic, followed by a 
blood purifier. Half a teaspoonful of castor oil will do for a 
physic, and the condition of the powder in the food will 
change the blood so that a cure will be effected soon. Or, 
apply to the part alfected a thin ointment of lard, flowers of 
sulphur and a little carbolic acid, all well mixed, and used 
every other day. If the pistules are at all like boils, which 
require relief when ripe, they may be opened with a penknife 
(as directed under the head of abscesses), but it is not advis- 
able to do this except in cases of real need. Keep the patient 
warm, but allow plenty of fresh air, and a cure will be effected 
in a short time. 

EYES, COLD IN. 

Symptoms: Inflammation of membrane of eyes, accom- 
panied by profuse tears. 

Treatment: Bathe the eyes once or twice a day with luke- 
warm water and sulphate of zinc, two grains to one ounce 
of water. 

EYES, SORE AND SWOLLEN. 

Symptoms: Difficulty in opening eyes, avoidance of the light, 
eyes entirely closed for days at a time. Seen most frequently 
in the young, and is caused by uncleanliness, especially the 
ammonical vapor arising from dung saturated with urine and 
allowed to stand in the hutch. The eye may protrude slightly 
from the socket, and around the lid may be seen small I'ed 
pimples, which will often spread to the forehead, roots of the 
ears and neck. Blindness is the result of neglect. 

Treatment: Clean out the hutch and thoroughly disi'ifect it. 
Remove the patient to a clean, warm hutch, well-ventilated, 
and apply with a sponge, twice a day, a little warm milk and 
water, for three or four days, and allow a liberal diet. If at 
the end of that time there is no perceptible improvement, as 
a last resource apply with a clean sponge a solution of one- 
fourth oz. of white copperas to a pint of water. Avoid as much 

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as possible giving pain, for when the rabbit suffers from this 
complaint the eye is remarkably tender, and requires delicate 
handling. Generally, in a week or two a cure may be expected, 
if the disease has been taken in hand in time. 
FESTERS. 
Symptoms: Wounds from fighting or other cause, will not 
heal. The cause is dirt getting into the wound, or poor health. 
Treatment: Find the soft place where the head is forming 
and lance it. Press out all matter and sponge the part clean. 
Dress with the following ointment, to prevent matter re-form- 
ing: Levigated red precipitated one-half dr.; bluestone (sul- 
phate of copper) in very fine powder one and one-half dr.; 
spermaceti ointment one ounce; carefully and thoroughly 
mixed. Feed with soft food, and mix in it a little flowers of 
sulphur. We have seen it recommended to apply a cold-water 
compress, or bandage, after lancing, as tight as the animal 
can bear it, changing twice a day, and keeping it as wet as pos- 
sible by placing a little oilskin between the inner and outer 
bandage. 

FJTS. 
Symptoms: The patient holds head on one side. A wildness 
about the eye is observed, the limbs are weak, and the animal 
seems to stagger in moving. When taken up, it will appar- 
ently swing about in the hand, and when placed upon the 
ground, roll over several times in the most frantic manner, 
as if suffering the most acute pain, and after several convul- 
sive struggles, lie as if perfectlj' exhausted, with one cheek on 
the ground, and the whole head distorted, so as to present 
anything but an agreeable appearance. The cause may gen- 
erally be attributed to a defect in the digestive organs, from 
which the animal becomes overweighted with food (for the 
rabbit will usually keep eating, suffering as it is). When the 
attack is treated in its early stages, it is seldom fatal, except 
in old rabbits. Does suffering for three weeks with these 
attacks have been known, after recovery, to give birth to 
litters. 

Treatment: The rabbit should be kept warm, yet not too 
close, for free circulation of air is essential to its recovery. 
Administer four grains of powdered camphor in two teaspoon- 
fuls of tepid water every day for a week, if it be necessary 
to do so for that length of time, but probably after the fourth 
day a change for the better will be noticed. The head will be 
held more in the natural position and there will be a firmness 

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in the limbs as when in health. With these favotable symp- 
toms, give the camphor every third day for a week or so more, 
and in smaller quantities, until perfect health is restored. Give 
a liberal supply of herbaceous food — as green clover, dandelion, 
turnip tops — not forgetting a little sweet hay and crushed oats. 
When the bowels are in a healthy state there will not be much 
to fear. 

HOCKS, SORENESS OF. 

Symptoms: Boils on the under part of hind legs. The di- 
sease very often arises from the hutch not being .iroperly 
cleaned, and the rabbit having to stand in damp litter. 

Treatment: Good litter in the hutch, and cleanliness. Apply 
vaseline and bandage the hind legs. These bandages the 
animal will probably tear off, so that frequent renewal may be 
necessary. If the soreness is on the upper side of the foot, 
near the claws, there is less difficulty. Another remedy is to 
bathe the sores frequently with sulphate of zinc solution, two 
grains to the ounce of water. Keep the rabbit warm and 
quiet, well supplied with nutritious food, and there is every 
possibility of an ultimate cure. If the sores run with matter, 
wash the places thoroughly with a soft sponge till they are 
well cleaned out. Then, if there is any matter remaining, put 
on a bread poultice to draw" it out. After this is done, powder 
with fuller's earth and bandage the place well up. Another 
authority says to sew a bandage around the hocks, put fuller's 
earth thickly under it, and then wet it frequently with zinc 
lotion. In the morning meal of soft food mix once or twice a 
week a small portion of flowers of sulphur, which will cool the 
blood, and at the same time clean the stomach. Give a mod- 
erate supply of dandelions or other green food. The following 
ointment will also be found a useful application: Precipitated 
chalk 2 dr., carbolic acid and glycerine 2 dr., lard one ounce. 
Mix thoroughly. 

INFLAMMATION OF THE WOMB. 

Symptoms: Fluid discharge, inflammation and soreness of 
parts. Caused by improper mating. If animals of the proper 
size and age are mated, this trouble will not occur. 

Treatment: It will take time to cure. There ai't^ several 
remedies, one of the best being one dr. sulphate of zinc and 
one dr. laudanum dissolved in a pint of distilled water. Bathe 
the parts with this lotion, lukewarm, once a day until inflam- 
mation subsides, then every other day until cured. Wipe the 
parts dry after washing, as the lotion is poisonous and the doe 

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may lick it off. 

INSECTS. 

Symptoms: Fleas and nits will not afflict Belgians if cleanli- 
ness be observed. The vermin will be found most often 
around the ears and forehead. Loss of appetite and leanness 
will follow unless the pests are removed. 

Treatment: Cut the hair short in the places most infested 
as this will facilitate the application of a sprinkling of sul- 
phur (which is alwa/s beneficial to the skin, which should be 
rubbed well down to the roots of the hair. Apply also a sprink- 
ling of white hellebore, which, if blown through a small bel- 
lows, as used for insect powders, will be forced to the roots of 
the hair, and a few applications will generally exterminate the 
insects. Hellebore is poisonous when taken internally, and 
care should be taken that the animals do not lick it off. Penny- 
royal in the bedding is a simple and sure preventive. 
LIVER DISEASE, OR ROT. 

Symptoms: The patient has difficulty in breathing, which is 
heavy, and at times accompanied by a noise. The patient eats 
well, and seems otherwise in health, and does will rear 
their litters when thus attacked; but, as may be supposed, the 
offspring are not so strong and healthy as those born under 
more favorable circumstances. If the rabbit be of little value, 
it had better be killed at once, but if a valuable one, to at- 
tempt the cure, or at least retard the progress of the disease, 
may be worth the trial. The attack on the liver is caused by a 
small parasite, called a fluke, which attaches itself to the liver, 
and causes it to decay, and eventually to become almost rotten. 
The liver of an animal which has died from this disease is 
found to be spotted. 

Treatment: If the appetite is good, and the digestive organs 
are in a healthy state, give one grain of calomel in two doses, 
at intervals of 12 hours. Give plenty of fresh air, without 
draught, and keep the hutch clean and dry. In the analogous 
disease, which proves so destructive to sheep, especially 
those fed on low and marshy laud, the following has been 
used with good effect, and may prove useful in the rabbitry: 
Take of nitre in powder 3 dr., ginger in powder 2 dr.. common 
salt one-fourth pound, boiling water three pints. Pour the 
boiling water over the ingredients, and when lukewarm, add 
three ounces of rectified spirits of turpentine, and agitate 
thoroughly. The dose of this mixture will be a teaspoonful 
given in early morning, an hour before the rabbit is fed, 

8 M 



and repeated three times, at intervals of four days. It is of 
the utmost importance that the mixture be thoroughly well 
shaken at the moment of pouring out the dose, to insure the 
equal distribution of the turpentine. Another form of 
diseased liver arises from derangement of the appetite and 
probably the digestive organs, leading to acute and chronic 
inflammation, and in such cases, one gr. of gray powder (mer- 
cury and chalk) may be given twice a day, giving, with other 
green food, a fair proportion of dandelion. 

MANGE, (SEE ALSO SCURF). 

Symptoms: Gray, scaly hard skin at the roots of the hair, 
more perceptible to the eye than to the touch, around the 
eyelids, nose and roots of the ears, and a greater or less loss 
of hair. It is infectious, and is often caused by a too habitual 
feeding upon dry food, and is generally more troublesome in 
winter, when green food and roots are not easily obtainable, 
than in summer. Another cause is the want of proper venti- 
lation and cleanliness in-the hutches. 

Treatment: Isolate the patient and sprinkle daily on the 
parts affected flowers of sulphur for a week. Should this 
prove ineffectual, use the ointment as recommended for scurf. 
Or melt four ounces hogs' lard with moderate heat, and add 
one-fourth ounce oil of vitriol. Stir well together until cold, 
and apply for three or four days in succession. If the conven- 
iences are at hand, the oil of vitriol and lard are easier and 
better mixed cold in a mortar, or on an ointment slab. As this 
ointment would prove injurious to the eyes, care must be used 
in its application. In places where the hair comes off by the 
application of the above remedies, the following restorative 
will be found of use: One-half oz. honey, one-half oz. laurel 
oil, one-half oz. linseed oil and one-half oz. onion juice; mix 
well together and apply every other day for a week. A decoc- 
tion of birch is also a simple and effectual lotion for this pur- 
pose; and if sulphur is occasionally given with the dry bran or 
oats, it will be of service; or a little sulphur may be rubbed 
around the nose, roots of ears and around the eyes, as it acts 
as a preventive to both scurf and mange, and as such is more 
effectual and far less troublesome than any cure. 
MATTED HAIR. 

Treatment: Use scissors to open all the matted hair, care- 
fully avoiding injin-y to the skin, and then, with a patient use 
of scissors and a metalcmob (which is stronger than horn) 
the coat may be rendered clean again. The skin is often laid 
9 M 



bare in places by this process, but the hair will soon grow 
again if the Belgian be kept warm and well fed, which is 
necessary after the rather painful process. 
MOULTING. 

Treatment: When from eight to ten weeks old, Belgians 
begin their first moult, which is not always passed through 
without serious results. During this process of nature, care 
should be taken to keep the young ones warm, but it is by far 
the best plan to let them remain with the doe until they are 
safe through this trying ordeal, which will generally be about 
the tenth or twelfth week, after which the chances are that 
with due care and attention the patients will pull through. 
Feed the doe well with good nutritious food. It will be 
observed that the fur at three weeks is unlike that at ten 
weeks, and this, again, is more down-like than that of the 
moulted rabbit. In the second covering there will be the per- 
manent shades and markings, from which there will be little or 
no deviation, except in a few instances. The rabbits can be 
assisted in their moult l)y giving them plenty of soaked peas 
and barley meal, with a little boiled linseed mixed with it. 
MOUTH, SORE. 

Symptoms: The patient feeds in a hesitating manner. The 
cause may be either overgrown teeth or tender gums. In the 
latter case, the gums v.dll be inflamed and swollen. 

Treatment: For sore gums, wash the mouth out with a little 
alum water. When the cause is overgrown teeth, reduce their 
length by means of a file or pair of wire-cutting pliers. These 
means should not be resorted to until absolutely necessary, as, 
the enamel being destroyed, the teeth will decay more quickly. 
PARALYSIS. 

Symptoms: The patient drags its hind legs along in the most 
pitiable manner, and remains in this state for days. When- 
ever want of activity in the extremities is observed, prompt 
measures should be taken, as every hour is of importance. 
The cause of paralysis is frequently a damp hutch. The im- 
mediate cause is said to be disease of the kidneys, which 
causes a deposit in the bladder. A thick, white matter will 
be found in the bladder on a post mortem examination being 
made. 

Treatment: Four gr. of camphor, 2 gr. of sulphate of iron, 

mixed in a little powdered liquorice and treacle, given in the 

form of a small pill every other day. Apply also along the 

spine, particularly in the region of the loins, a little turpen- 

10 M 



tine, well rubbed in twice a week. To facilitate this process, 
the hair should be cut short. It will soon grow again. A 
blister, if it can be retained in the right position, will be found 
of advantage, but, on the whole, the other remedies are nearly 
equally beneficial in results, and more convenient in their ap- 
plication. The following may be used as a mild blister: Four oz. 
lard, three-fourths oz. beeswax, three-quarters oz. powdered 
cantharides. The wax and lard are melted together, and the 
powder stirred in. This ointment should be rubbed into the 
skin, or spread upon a piece of linen, and kept in its place by 
bandages until the pistules rise. Spirits of turpentine 
sprinkled on a flnannel which has been wrung out in hot water 
makes a convenient blister. The blister should be dressed 
with olive oil, or spermaceti ointment. Rochelle salts, as 
much as will lie on a quarter, given once or twice a day in 
some soft food, has been recommended. The general health 
of the rabbit is tolerably good during its state of helplessness, 
and it will eat almost as usual, especially for the first few 
days, after which want of exercise tends to lessen its relish 
for food. The rabbit should be kept warm and well supplied 
with the best and most nutritious food. The attack lasts from 
six to ten days. 

POT BELLY, OR DROPSY. 

Symptoms: Swollen belly, good appetite followed by loss of 
relish for food, and sluggishness. It is caused by too small a 
hutch, or a hutch dark and damp, an excess of green food, 
irregularity in amount of food, or lack of exercise, 

Treatment: Separate the patient from the others, and give 
plenty of room for exercise. A run upon the dry gi'ound for 
an hour or two each day in warm weather will be found bene- 
ficial. Feed dry grain and bread toasted brown. Put a piece 
of scorched bread in the drinking water. Give dry food — as 
oats, barley, split peas, leaves of the oak tree, dried; and after 
a few days of this, a little water may be given, also a sprig or 
two of sage, parsley, thyme, or ivy leaves, if the rabbit will eat 
them. Carrots will be found advantageous if given in small 
quantities, but must be given sparingly, as the too free indul- 
gence in succulent diet is the cause of the mischief. 
SCURF. (SEE ALSO MANGE.) 

Symptoms: The skin becomes rough to the touch,and comes 
away in little white flakes. The disease especially presents 
itself in the nose, roots of ears, and eyelids, but it may be 
noticed almost all over the body. The rabbit has a rather 

11 M 



more dull and heavy appearance than usual and if the attack 
be left uncared for, the rabbit -will be sacrificed. The patient 
must be well fed and with plenty of fresh air there is not much 
to fear, provided the disease is treated in its first stages. The 
disease is contagious. 

Treatment: Isolate the patient in a clean, warm, well-venti- 
lated hutch. Tear in pieces an ounce of roll tobacco, pour 
upon it half a pint of boiling water; when cold, add six grains 
of cayenne pepper, stir well together and apply with a sponge 
to the roots of the hair where affected. Repeat this every 
other day, and on the second or third application the scurf 
will come off, and in all probability the hair will come with it, 
but the hair will soon be restored. Another remedy is sul- 
phur mixed with oil. Whale oil is the strongest, but is rather 
offensive in smell, and need seldom be used, though it is de- 
cidedly efficacious. When it is of the consistency of thin 
paste, apply it once every three days, rubbing it into the skin, 
removing the hair with a pair of scissors to facilitate the 
process. Sulphur mixed with lard is also effective as a cure, 
and more agreeable to the patient. Linseed simmered till 
soft, and thickened with barley meal or middlings, with a 
small teaspoonful of flowers of sulphur mixed in, forms a 
good food. A few dandelions may also be given. 
SLOBBERS. 

Symptoms: Flow of saliva-like fluid from the mouth. Cause 
indigestion. Prevalent among young stock where litters are 
too large. The young, failing to get nourishment from the 
overworked does, help themselves to food from the pen, and 
their stomachs are not strong enough to digest the mass. 

Treatment: Keep the patient in a cool, well-ventilated 
hutch, but sheltered from draughts, cold winds, or the direct 
rays of the sun. See that its bowels are kept open by a regu- 
lar supply of green food. For a local application, wash its 
moiith with alum and water every four hours, or rub a handful 
of powdered alum and salt, equal parts, well into the affected 
parts. Give half teaspoonful doses of syrup of figs until the 
bowels move freely. Feed mash with half a teaspoon of condi- 
tion powder to every four ounces. Give food which is easy 
to digest. See that the salt supply is regular. Ten drops of oil 
of juniper and sweet spirits of nitre mixed with the drinking 
water morning and evening is another good remedy for 
slobbers. 

12 M 



SNUFFLES. 
Symptoms: Sneezing or coughing followed by a diiicharge 
from the nose of a white, glutinous matter. This complaint 
is of two kinds. One comes from a simple cold in the head 
and it is not infectious. The other is hereditary or chronic 
and may be communicated. In its symptoms the disease bears 
a strong resemblance to influenza in the human subject, and 
is to be attributed to the same cause, namely, exposure to cold 
draughts, or sudden extremes of heat and cold. Belgians in 
damp hutches, without proper protection from cold draughts, 
are liable to this troublesome and often fatal complaint which, 
if not attended to as soon as observed, requires long and pa- 
tient treatment. The rabbit is heard sneezing, while a moisture 
is perceptible around the nostrils. Loss of appetite follows, 
and in a few days the nostrils are apparently closed with 
mucus. Inflammation of the lungs frequently supervenes, and 
death. A slight cold, if allowed to run, will develop into 
snuffles. 

Treatment: Keep the patient isolated, warm and well fed. 
Give a few boiled potatoes, with a little salt. Barley meal, 
mixed into a paste and given warm will be beneficial, and 
carrots should form at this time part of the vegetable diet. 
Wash the nose, mouth and forelegs well with carbolic soap. 
As medicine, give three grains of sulphate of copper, finely 
powdered, every day for three or four days. Then, when the 
mucus disappears, a cure is nearly certain, but care and special 
attention are required for a few days more, and it will bo 
better if a grain of the sulphate be sprinkled with the tran 
every other day until the patient is perfectly restored to 
health. The disease sometimes will continue two or three 
weeks, especially in damp, foggy weather. A useful mjde of 
treatment is to sponge the nose with vinegar and v/ater in 
equal proportions, as warm as the rabbit can well bear it. 
Give one of these powders three time a day, separate from 
food, with a teaspoon: Powdered licorice 36 grains, powdered 
nitre 24 grains, powdered ginger 12 grains, ipecacuana one 
and one-half grains. Mix thoroughly and divide into 12 
powders. In hard cases, use two drops tincture of aconite in 
the food, twice a day, and the patient will stop sneezing. Feed 
warm mash with a teaspoonful of flaxseed in it. 
TUMOR. 
Symptoms: Large hydatids, or watery tumors, appear on 
13 M 



the hindQuarters. 

Treatment: Keep the patient warm, particularly xfter any 
surgical operation has been performed. Feed well, and treat 
the case in its first stages, as the most favorable issue may 
then be hoped for. The operation ought to be performed only 
by a surgeon, after etherizing the patient. If hares thus 
afflicted die and are eaten by dogs, the dung of the dog will 
contain eggs which when dried on herbage and eaten again 
by hares, afflict the hares with tumors. Human beings are not 
affected. Neither the Belgian hare, nor any rabbit, is afflicted 
with "worm in the neck," and tapeworm. 
CAKED UDDER. 

Treatment: Feed sparingly for a few days and rub gently 
with marshmellow ointment, first sponging the udder with 
warm water and wiping dry. 

URINE, RED OR UNNATURAL COLOR OF 

Symptoms; Dark urine, red as if tinged with blood; patient 
out of sorts. 

Treatment: Place he patient in a warmer hutch, if the one 
it occupies be not comfortable, and supply it with good food 
— as oatmeal, boiled potatoes, given warm, a few oats, a little 
endive, dandelions and carrots. Garden parsley, green in sum- 
mer, dry in winter. A few drops of sweet spirits of "nitre 
occasionally. Two tablespoonfuls of water in which bran has 
been soaked 24 hours may be given every day until the urine 
presents its natural appearance, which it should do in from 
four to eight days. 



14 M 



LESSON FOURTEEN. 

Experiences in Curing Ailments 

Recipe for Mange Ointment — Bleeding from the Gums in Fits 
— Salts and Senna for Constipation — Snuffles Found 
Wherever There is Overcrowding and Filth — Is Snuffles 
Contagious and Infectious? — Injections of Warm Water 
For Constipation — Powdered Carraway for Snuffles — Bo- 
racic Acid for Snuffles and Canker in the Ear — Heredi- 
tary Snuffles — Overfeeding a Cause of Much Disease — Salt 
as a Preventive of Slobbers — Mercury for Liver Diseases 
— Alum and Borax for Slobbers — Recipe for Powder for 
Curing Lung Fever — Cold Water and Nitre for Diarrhoea 
— Recipe for Food to Prevent Convulsions in Moulting. 
No. 400 — "In cases of mange, I have found the following 
effectual in several bad cases, and which has not had the tend- 
ency to turn the animal sickly. Mix a small portion of black 
sulphur in lard until it forms a kind of salve or ointment, and 
rub the parts affected with it night and morning, taki^ig care 
that if rubs off with the scurf. The animal will lick some of 
the ointment off, but this will not be injurious, but rather the 
reverse. Give a good feed of sweet hay at least once a day. 
and a moderate supply of green food, as mange often arises 
from the want of proper succulent food. Keep the hutch well 
cleaned out, and let the rabbit have a good supply of litter 
and a drink of acid milk once or twice a week. The usual rre- 
scription for mange in dogs is the green iodide of mercyry 
ointment, made with one dr. of the iodide to seven dr. of lurd, 
and it is worth a trial with rabbits. The ointment should be 
well rubbed in every day, and any adhering to the hair should 
be carefully wiped off to prevent the animal licking it. Mange 
being infectious, the affected animal should be isolated." 

No. 401 — "In case of fits, I have found that bleeding from the 
gums above the front teeth, and doses of camphor water is the 
treatment most likely to be of permanent service, though a 
complete cure is rarely effected.'" 

No. 402 — "Salts and senna, with a few carraway seeds in it, 
is the best medicine for constipation, and I have had rabbits 
which were quite distended with wind completely cured in one 
night by this treatment." 

No. 403 — "I do not desire to pose as a final authority of this 
or any subject connected with the care and breeding of hares. I 
shall be willing at all times to give the results of my obser- 
vations and study on all subjects copnected with the Belgian. 
1 N 



Snuffles is caused either by neglect and fllthiy hutches, over- 
crowding in pens, or exposure to sudden and extreme changes 
of temperature. It can be detected in most cases in its first 
stages, by examining the nose and front feet. If the nose 
discharges a sticlty, white mucus, the proper treatment should 
be applied at once. The disease has not become snuffles at this 
stage. It is merely an indication, and if from dirt or exposure, 
the correcting of these ills will bring about a cure, but if left 
to itself will, probably, result in a genuine case of snuffles. 
Sneezing alone is not an indication of snuffles, and 
if not frequent need cause no alarm. Most all animals 
will sneeze. The best means of stopping the difflculty In the 
beginning is to take the individual and put it in a p(>n alone, 
where there is sunlight and air in plenty. Keep clean and fed 
regularly with the usual diet, and an addition occasionally of 
a quantity of fine oil meal, most cases will need no other 
treatment. If not checked, the disease will increase in sever- 
ity, the discharge from the rose becomes offensive, the odor 
like decayed cheese, and can be easily detected. No matter 
how much care is taken to overcome the smell, it is unmis- 
takable. At this stage, the subject looks du^., the fur on end, 
and though it eats well for a time, soon loses flesh. The dis- 
ease goes to the lungs, or stomach, and then to the bowels, 
causes a fetid discharge which, in a few hours, will be fatal. 
My observations, which have extended to many of the largest 
rabbitries in the country, have satisfied me that the disease 
will be found wherever overcrowding and filth abound. I 
find, also, that almost all have some of it, though among the 
older breeders I find none of that anxiety and fear about it 
that is prevalent with those newer in the business. If han- 
dled properly, the breeder has no cause for uneasiness, but 
I advise taking it up promptly, and if the subject ioes not 
show improvement after isolation and treatment for a reason- 
able time, kill it, but if be a valuable animal, I would 
not be too quick with that remedy. I believe if the subject be 
a doe. of fine strain, I would breed her promptly, and breed g, 
nurse doe at the same time, and when the young comi trans- 
fer the litter to the nurse doe, and raise them in that way. I 
do not believe that the disease is either contagious or infec- 
tious, but to be on the safe side is the best. In this way, you 
preserve her strain in your rabbitry. If she can stand an^ 
other breeding, breed her again, following the same course. 
If she dies, as he probably will. You have lost only the doe. 

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You have her young, and keep them clear of the disease." 

No. 404 — "I had a valuable rabbit that had been suffering 
from an obstinate case of constipation cured completely by 
following the prescription of a friend. The rabbit had been 
ailing for some time. It had been fed with a variety of green 
foods, and had even had doses of salts and senna tea, but 
without result. My friend advised an injection of warm 
water and castor oil, in the proportion of three tabiespoon- 
fuls of the former to one of the latter, administered with an 
injection pipe fastened to a small sheep's bladder, to be fol- 
lowed, if this failed, in three hours, by an injection of warm 
water alone. And if this did not produce the desired result, 
the water and oil to be again tried. He further recommended, 
as a last resource, that the hind legs of the rabbit should be 
placed in warm water for about ten minutes. I gave the warm 
bath, as direced, with perfect success, and have since tried 
it in other cases with equally favorable results." 

No. 405 — "For mange, take 12 ounces of cottonseed oil and 
four ounces of kerosene. Mix and then add a sufficient quan- 
tity of sulphur to bring it to the consistency of cream. Ap- 
ply with the hand, rubbing it well on all sore or mangy spots." 
No. 406 — "I have found powdered carraway, given in hot 
meal, superior to all other remedies in snuffles." 

No. 407 — "Snuffles is what is technically called ozaena, and 
after insuring perfect cleanliness and free ventilation. I find 
the most successful treatment is boracic acid blown up the 
nostrils every night and morning for a few days. This is a 
simple, safe and effectual cure for the disease. I have made 
experiments with several remedies, but the above has proved 
by far the most reliable and, I may say, a specific. It is use- 
less to expect any kind of special feeding, or irritants applied 
to the nostrils, to bring about a cure." 

No. 408 — "For canker in the ear, wash thoroughly with warm 
water and castile soap, rinse, dry, and apply once dai'y a suf- 
ficient quantity of boracic acid, working it well down into the 
ear." 

No. 409 — "In a case of snuffles, first isolate the rabbit, and 
place it in a warm, dry hutch. Second, bed it down with 
sweet hay, and for a few days wash the discharge from the 
nose with warm green-tea Iction, feeding with jiod oats, 
swede turnips or carrots. If the discharge from the nose con- 
tinues, then administer two drops of tincture of aconite in its 
food, morning and evening, until the patient gives up sneezing, 

3 N 



and then continue the medicine every day until tlie rabbit 
is restored to health. Third, should the rabbit discharge trom 
the eyes, and soreness show itself on the nostrils, then wash 
with a sponge twice a day with carbolic acid lotion (one drop 
of carbolic to ten of water), being careful not to let the rabbit 
lick the lotion and the soreness in a few days will be removed. 
Examine the fore feet of the rabbit, and should any matter 
from the nose be clotted on them, wash it off with warm 
water to prevent it from irritating the wound on 
the nose, and good results will soon be observed. Fourth, 
should the rabbit have a bad appetite, give some warm tea 
leaves, and almost dry, or any similar tonic, in the tood. I 
have known cases of hereditary or congenital snuffles result- 
ing from breeding from a sire suffering from the disease at 
the time of breeding, and such cases are generally incurable." 
No. 410 — "Experience has taught me that hares, when they 
have their little sicknesses and troubles, are very easily cured 
if taken in time, and a little judgment and care used. Parties 
say to me: 'My little hares ;ire dying. What is the matter?' 
Upon inquiry, I have ascertained in almost every case a very 
careless manner of feeding. One gentleman who had come to 
me for advice said: 'I keep food before them all the time. 
I do not know what more I can do.' The fact of the matter 
was that he had fed them to death. Hares can no more eat 
all the time than can people, or any other creature. Another 
gentleman said his little ones had the slobbers. 'Do /ou ever 
salt them?' was asked. 'No.' Therein lay one great cause of 
their having the slobbers.'' 

No. 411 — "To feed so as to prevent slobbers, take a lump of 
ordinary barrel salt, the size of a hen's egg, dissolve it in four 
quarts of water, soak the oa.ts in the solution for three hours, 
then place them on a screen to dry for at least an hour before 
feeding." 

No, 412 — "I had a fine doe die, no apparent diseise. I 
opened her and found the liver very much enlarged, and white 
spots on it. She had been dead not much over a day, and 
smelled very offensive. I think a small quantity of mercury 
given when the hare seems off its feed would be of g-eat ad- 
vantage. I have used it with great success." 

No. 413 — "Every breeder who has had experience in raising 
Belgian hares or rabbits of any variety has suffered more or 
less loss through slobbers. It is caused by the food becoming 
impacted in the stomach and forming an indigestible mass on 

4 N 



\, liich the gastric juice does not act. the result being that the 
saliva instead of passing i'lto the stomach and ai.liug the di- 
gestion, oozes out of the mouth, forming an irritating, slimy 
substance which adheres to the fur. The hare in its efforts 
to clean itself with its front legs besmears its face, neck, chest 
and front legs. After an examination of the contents of the 
stomach of several hares after death from slobbers, the same 
impacted condition of food was found in each. Knowing that 
salt was used with nuts, popcorn, etc., to act as a disintegrator 
and to aid digestion in the human stomach, I arrived at the 
conclusion that it would have the same effect on the iiare. I 
fcund that the young hares did not take enough from the 
lump salt placed in the hutch to accomplish what I desired, 
namely, the disintegration of the contents of the stomach and 
thus prevent the slobbers. Even by adding a dish ot common 
barrel salt, they would not in all cases eat enough of it to 
keep them from having the slobbers, therefore I have adopted 
this method: After they show symptoms of slobbers a tea- 
spoon of salt water administered as it would seem necessary 
from the stage of the disease will usually effect a cure un- 
less the condition is too far advanced. A rubber bulb syringe 
will be found very convenient in giving liquid medicines to 
hares." 

No. 414 — "For slobbers, wash outside the mouth and jaws 
with warm alum water twice a day. This will contract the 
glands and stop the flow of saliva. Powdered borax in water 
is also very good; give half a teaspoon of some simple laxative 
until the bowels move freely. Do not give any food hard to 
digest for a few days. Bathe their eyes with sulphate of 
zinc, about three grains to an ounce of water, and they will 
open immediately. This is a grand remedy for an eye trouble, 
but don't leave it where the rabbit can get near it, for it is 
poisonous." 

No. 415 — "In cases of lung fever, the first symptoms of a 
roaring or rattling come undoubtedly from the lungs, which 
are inflamed and sore, caused by exposure to cold, a trouble 
which is especially liable to come to breeders in a climate 
like Colorado. The reason for the animal staying quietly in 
its corner is the pain he is enduring, and his desire to remain 
quiet without moving about is in accordance with tho action 
of other animals afflicted in the same manner. Ar, a cure, 
give four times daily from five to twenty grains of acetanilid, 
a white powder, which can only be given dry by pid":ing in 

5 N 



the animal's mouth and holding the nose up until swallowed. 
The powder is a coal tar preparation recently brought out for 
the cure of lung fever, and has been found very effective. A 
few drops of pure listerine luay also be given occasionally to 
allay irritation until the patient begins to improve." 

No. 416 — "During the last few months several breeders of 
Belgian hares have written me regarding the snuffles in rab- 
bits, asking if my hutches were infected. My answer was an 
emphatic no in every case, yet the Belgian hares I have bought 
during the last 18 months have all arrived, with one excep- 
tion, running at the nose and discharging a white mar/er. To 
me it is a case of pure neglect, as rabbits, if they are properly 
housed and not allowed in draughts, or to get wet, will cer- 
tainly be free from malady. I have seen rabbits of all breeds, 
ycung and old, but so far 1 can find few as healthy as mine, 
and none more so. In Belgian hares, of which I have had 
some 250. I have never had one off its feed, and after I had 
cured the snuffles in the ones I had purchased, there was no 
return of that disease, and no youngster ever inherited it. 
I want to give credit to whom credit is due, and I will say 
that my prevention and cure has been tight hutches, no 
draughts, no wind blowing directly on the hutches, and the 
free use of Sanitas. My hutches are cleaned twice each week, 
fresh shavings, which I buy in bales, being used for bedding, 
while a handful of Sanitas sawdust is sprinkled on all damp 
spots previous to putting in ihe fresh shavings. This kills any 
bad odors, and the rabbits constantly inhale the disinfectant, 
which keeps their health much better and purifies the air of 
the rabbitry. If they are sneezing badly, I drop a little Sani- 
tas oil on the nose, not on the hair, as it is not so effective, 
but just so that a drop or two will enter the nostrils. 1 also 
wet the front feet with oil, which they rub on their face when 
washing themselves. When the discharge does not stop in a 
day or so. I inject a little Sanitas disinfecting fluid, o)ie part 
fluid to four of water, in the nostrils, and use the oil as well. 
In every case a cure has been speedily effected, and what is 
better still, there has been no return of the snuffles." 

No. 417 — "Diarrhoea is best treated, not by cold water alone, 
as I first suggested, but by nitre in solution, which is much 
more efficacious, and the rabbit drinks it more eagerly. In 
snuffles I find powdered caraway, given in hot meal, superior 
to all other remedies." 

No. 418 — "If you wish to treed a first-class show specimen, 
6 N 



refrain from giving green food, or give it only in moderate 
quantities, such food having a great tendency to make the 
blood poor. To obtain the dark- color in the points, and soft 
silky fur, you must keep the blood of the rabbits in as rich a 
state as possible. Young ones especially cannot stand much 
green food, being very subject to get relaxed in the bowels, 
which will kill them off in an extraordinarily short ti.nie; and 
it will be well to watch them after each meal, in order to 
counteract such effect as it appears. This may be done in the 
shortest space of time by giving one or two acorns, which no 
well-conducted rabbitry should ever be without. They should 
also be kept in a clean, well-ventilated hutch. A free use of 
whitewash will at all times be beneficial, and will also tend to 
keep their habitation free from vermin." 

No. 419 — "I allow the young rabbits to run with the doe until 
they are about seven weeks old, thereby ensuring them 
strength to get over their first moult. The follov/ing is a 
recipe which I have found very beneficial as a preventive 
against convulsions in moulting: Take one pound of flour, 
one pound linseed meal, one ounce ground ginger, one ounce 
salt. Mix into a very stiff batter with boiling water, then add 
one ounce camphorated spirits of wine and one ounre of es- 
sence of aniseed. The mixture should then be poured on a 
tin and baked in the oven until nicely browned, after which 
cut into squares. A piece about one inch square and half an 
inch think is sufficient to give a young rabbit once a, week. 
I have found a few small pieces of camphor placed in the 
hutch very beneficial in the first stage of this complaint. A 
little powdered sulphate of iron sprinkled among their dry 
food being a good tonic, strengthens the system to meet this, 
the most critical time of rabbit life. Paralysis almost always 
follows a severe attack of the above complaint. I have found 
that rubbing the spine and loins with camphorated spirits will 
in some cases bring the rabbit back to health, but :n most 
severe attacks the case is hopeless. Warmth and good feed- 
ing are esstential." 



7 N 



LESSON FIFTEEN. 

Exhibiting 

Show Pens Should Have Doors and Belgians Should Be Re- 
moved for Judging — Best Food for Exhibition Use — Exhib- 
itors Must Properly Label Stock, Giving Also Selling Price 
— Judges Should Disqualify Any Exhibit Which Has Been 
Tampered With — Guarantee Must Be Posted by Every 
Complainant — Always Advertise the Name of Judge or 
Judges — No Rabbit Suffering from Contagious Disease 
Ever Should Be Sent to Exhibition — Keep the Belgians at 
Home Just as They Will Be in the Show Pen — Sometimes 
White Feet of Belgians Are Dyed by Unprincipled Exhib- 
itors — Some Exhibitors Who Are Always Ready to Tamper 
with the Judges — Nothing More Dishonorable Than to Try 
and Pervert Judgment. 

IN THE matter of exhibitions, the best authority is found in 
the words of Mr. J. Jennings of London, secretary of a well 
known rabbit society, and himself a fancier and a judge. 
In the course of an exhaustive paper published in one of 
the pet stock papers in England, he gives admirable advice 
from which the following is taken : 

Having decided to hold a show, two points immediately pre- 
sent themselves for consideration — the accommodation and 
the judging. The number of entries selected will regulate the 
dimensions of the building; but, if possible, it should always 
be arranged that the specimens shall be in a single tier, for 
the convenience of visitors, and for the great advantage gained 
in light. The pens must be provided with doors, for rabbits 
can only be properly judged by removing each from each pen. 
The bottom of each pen should be liberally covered with saw- 
dust, on the top of which is a good handful of hay. but not too 
much, else the rabbit will bury itself in it. Care should be 
taken to have good, sound food for them. Nothing is more dis- 
graceful than to omit proper attention on this part. Good oats, 
carrots and swedes are the safest food to have on hand, though 
in certain parts of the country green food may be given mod- 
erately, providing it is fresh. Whenever it is possible, the 
pens should be fixed in position and arranged for the reception 
of their intended occupants before the latter arrive. The rab- 
bits are generally long enough in confinement on their journey 
without being unnecessarily detained on their arrival. 

The most important oflBicer is the secretary, and while, on 
the one hand, no one should aspire to that office till he feels 

1 



prepared to carry out to the letter such an undertaking, it 
should be borne in mind by those with whom he is associated 
that it least a hearty vote of thanks is due him at the finish. 

Exhibitors must properly label their stock. They must also 
state the prices at which they will sell. The judges appointed 
to award the prizes will be instructed to disqualify any ex- 
hibit which, in their opinion, has been tampered or improperly 
dealt with, and no appeal from their decision will be enter- 
tained on any ground whatever, the entrance fees in each case 
being forfeited. In the event of any one lodging a protest 
against an award, the individual so protesting shall be re- 
quired to deposit $5 as security for its bona fide character. 
It shall then be examined by judge or judges, committee, and 
a nominee of protestor. The amount is to be forfeited if the 
protest turns out to be frivolous, but returned in full, and the 
exhibit or exhibits disqualified, where protest is found correct. 
No person will be admitted to the exhibition room during the 
judging, under any pretence whatever, except those actually 
engaged in the arrangements; and during the whole of the 
show all the specimens will be in the custody of the commit- 
tee (who are non-exhibitors) and may not be touched or han- 
dled by the owners, or any unauthorized persons, under any 
circumstances. 

Rabbit exhibitors have just as much claim to have their 
specimens judged by those who have made rabbits their study 
as poultry or pigeon exhibitors have the right of refusing to 
submit their exhibits to rabbit judges. 

Several weeks before he show takes place, it should be ad- 
vertised, and the advertising continued until the show takes 
place. Another point — always advertise the judge or judges 
selected. 

No specimen should ever be sent to an exhibition suffering 
from a contagious disease which, although not perceptible to 
the general public, is nevertheless known to its owner. Re- 
verse the case, and suppose that a valuable rabbit of yours 
caught a complaint at a show, and died therefrom, what would 
you say or think? 

The great point is to keep your rabbits when they are at 
home in as nearly the same conditions as they will be subject 
to in the show pen. This is highly important, and there is a 
great deal more in it than many credit. Of two evils, that of 
high temperature is the worst. It is apt to throw them into 
moult and produce loose coats. A medium course is the best 

2 O 



to adopt. 

Duly appointed judges, who for years have made rabbits 
their iStudy, should always be engaged. The combination of 
natural gift and study that makes the judge, embraces a 
knowledge of the special features and points. 

Mr. W. Heath, another capable English authority, gives the 
following points: Be on the watch for tampered specimens. 
Sometimes the white feet of Belgians are dyed by unprincipled 
exhibitors. The first and greatest point in judging is to look 
at the specimens without any fear of offending or pleasing, and 
always to judge the specimens and never the owners. It is a 
known fact that there are many who are not very particular 
as to how they tamper with the judges, as long as they can 
get prizes. Exhibitors go around the pens and drop a little 
chaff, or grass, or green food, or anything of a particular na- 
ture, to mark their pens. Nothing is more dishonorable than 
for any one to try and pervert judgment. 



3 O 



LESSON SIXTEEN. 

Judging 

Judges Are Not Infallible — Uncertainty of Judging Gives Zest 
to Exhibitions — Hard to Influence a Judge with One Speci- 
men — Show Him That Good Quality is Characteristic of 
Several Exhibits — Qualities Which Judge Crabtree Has 
Found to Be Most Generally Overlooked by Breeders — 
Judge Schuman on the Details of Scoring — Body Should 
Be Long and Lean — Stylish Carriage Has Much to Do 
with Racy Appearance and Beauty — Good Ticking — How 
the Ears Should Be Scored — Eyes, Feet, Legs and Dewlap 
— Importance of Being Up to Weight — Flesh Should Be 
Hard and Firm — Fault of Diverse Scoring Does Not Lie in 
Any Particular Card, but in the Application Thereof. 

THE beginner will save himself a good many heartaches if 
he will bear in mind that judges are not infallible, and 
that one pair of eyes will see differently than another, 
no matter how skillful, and in spite of the best of inten- 
tions. 

The uncertainty of judging in no small degree gives zest to 
exhibitions, for if it were certain that the famous, well-adver- 
tised animals would take all the przies, the small exhibitors 
would stay away. 

It is hard to influence a judge with one specimen. You 
should hammer away at him with all the good ones you have 
in stock. If you make a good sized exhibit, in attractive 
hutches, and your stock shows that it is well fed and well han- 
dled, you ought to fare well, that is, of course, if you have good 
blood. Breeding to the standard is absolutely essential, but 
it should not be forgotten that careful handling and training of 
your pets will mean a great deal, and in case of doubt will 
turn the scale in your favor. 

Judge P. E. Crabtree says that his experience has led him 
to believe that the matters most generally overlooked, and 
consequently neglected in breeding, are shape of eye, quality 
of ear, as regards thinness, fineness of bone in front legs, lac- 
ing of ears, waviness of ticking and color of jaw and belly. 
He advises that special attention should be given the pro- 
duction of choice red feet and legs, and a beautiful jet black 
lacing confined closely to the edge of a pure golden red ear is 
perhaps the crowning feature of a well bred specimen. 

Judge W .C. Schuman, one of the most successful of prize 
winning breeders, says some of our hare judges recklessly 
1 P 



stamp the word perfection in the color column. A pale-col- 
ored hare will be cut one-quarter of a point, and a chocolate 
specimen will receive the esame punishments then when we 
strike the medium and secure a tan rabbit, we are surprised at 
seeing the ame old cut. Again, there is a vast difference be- 
tween dull color and fiery tan. Brghtness is everything in the 
color line, yet the efforts of the fancier are discounted by hav- 
ing his hare punished the same in the color column as the one 
that possesses color without life. These mistakes probably 
are due to the fact that the industry is a new one and that the 
rough edges have not as yet been rounded. 

The color of the Belgian, continues Mr. Schuman, should be 
a rich rufous, bright and clear. Due attention should be paid 
to the shade of color, its depth and brightness. Bright undei-- 
color is not so valuable unless it also shows bright upon the 
surface, while surface color alone should be cut unless accom- 
panied by depth and richness. Under these conditions the 
judge that pronounces the color absolutely perfect is making a 
rather broad statement. It can be found only in a few in- 
stances. The color on sides and haunches is considered as a 
possibility. Some specimens have been found that carried the 
back color evenly down the sides, breaking off sharply as the 
belly is reached. If the specimen is entirely gray upon the 
sides and haunches it is susceptible of severe punishment. If 
it possesses 75 per cent, of color in these sections, it should be 
cut the remaining 25 per cent., or one point, as four points are 
allotted to each section. The standard assumes that a light 
shade of color under the jaws will always be a part of the 
Belgian, and preference is given to those possessing a yellow- 
ish tint as against the snowy white. 

The body should be long and lean, with belly carried close 
up, and great length of couplings. A hare with such a body 
should go well ahead of the short, baggy specimens. The 
loins should be well rounded, with the flesh firmly packed. 
The back is slightly arched, the curve beginning back of the 
shoulders and sweeping gradually over the rump, avoiding any 
tendency to squareness behind. A hare that chops off abruptly 
behind is an ugly specimen as regards shape. 

Stylish carriage has much to do with the racy appearance 
and beauty of the Belgian. The specimen should stand up, 
showing daylight underneath, and should not crouch down in 
a frightened attitude. To attain this stylish carriage, the 
specimen should be frequently handled and drilled. Ticking 

2 P 



is a very important feature and should occur in waves. It be- 
gins back of the shoulders, widening as the loins are reached. 
The great tendency has been toward over ticking, giving the 
hare a dark, smudgy appearance. The ticking should contain 
lustre and not be of a grayish hue. As ten points are allot- 
ted to this section, the specimen can be severely punished if it 
falls badly. If the hare is entirely devoid of ticking, the rules 
of percentage would mean a cut of ten points. If it possesses 
50 per cent, of ticking, it should be cut the remaining 50 per 
cent, or five points, and so on, until a cut of one-quarter of a 
point is reached, which means that the specimen falls only 
one-fortieth, as there are 40 quarters in 10. A cut of one^ 
quarter in this section would require an exceedingly sharp eye 
upon the part of the judge, both as regards quantity and 
brightness. The head should be free from ticking except In 
the center of the forehead, and must also be long and lean, 
avoiding a tendency to pouchy jaws. 

Good ears present an attractive appearance when looking at 
the front of the hare. The ears should be about five inches 
long, and fine in quality. The outer surface should be covered 
with hair of a good color, and the color should also show well 
upon the inner edges. Bare ears should receive a cut sufficient 
to cover them with fur and color. The lacing is a narrow 
band of black around the upper edges of ears. It should be 
bright and well-defined, with the ear color extending close up 
to edge of lacing, and without presenting a smudgy appear- 
ance at the upper portion of ear. The ears should be carried 
erect, close together and in a slightly backward direction. 

The eyes are of hazel color, and should be large and promi- 
nent, with a bright, bold expression. A careful study of differ^ 
ent specimens will assure all that it is a difficult matter to se- 
cure a really good eye, although it has been the custom to 
pass almost all specimens in this regard. The top of the tail 
should be red— or rather, that is what we are seeking. The 
tail should also curve straight up the back, and not be carried 
to one side. The chest should be long and lean (without full- 
ness) and good specimens in the color line show the bright- 
est upon the chest. The feet and legs are an important item. 
The fore feet and legs should be long, straight and fine in qual- 
ity. They should be free from either white or black bars, and 
the color should be of a very bright tan. The hind feet should 
be evenly covered over the top with a rich, red tan, and the 
foot should be long and lean and not short and wide. If they 

3 P 



answer the above, the are correct. If snowy white and coarse, 
a cut of 100 per cent, will make them standard. If they fail 
50 per cent., they should be cut the remaining 50 per cent, (or 
two points) instead of a quarter or a half. Some Belgians pos- 
sess immense dewlaps, while others are about the size of a 
pigeon's egg. It has been the custom to cut the latter size 
one-half point, the punishment increasing in proportion to the 
size of the objectionable feature. 

Belgians should be carefully prepared in order to guard 
against cuts for underweight. The penalty for underweight 
has been generally adopted as two points per pound. A speci- 
men that lacks one-quarter should be cut one-half point; one- 
half pound receives a cut of one point, and so on. 

Condition means much. The flesh should be hard and firm, 
like that of a racehorse. The coat should be well set on, and 
the fur of a fine texture, soft and silky to the touch. Quality 
of fur passes as perfect in almost all cases, but in any rabbitry 
one specimen can be selected that possesses a coat much 
finer in quality than the others. 

There are numerous score cards, and Mr. Schuman is of the 
opinion that the industry will continue in its present chaotic 
condition until fanciers unite upon one score card and judges 
adopt a uniform system of cutting. It cannot be said that 
the fault lies in any particular card, but rather in the 
application thereof. Until the percentage system is adopted, 
comparison judging will find favor in the eyes of many, as it 
prevents serious mistakes on the part of the judges. 



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LESSON SEVENTEEN. 

How to Ship 

Shipping Tag with Directions for Feeding and Watering 
Should Be in Plain Sight — Not Necessary to Use a Largb 
Box or Hutch — Make the Crate as Light as Possible- 
Two Tin Cups Should Be Fastened to the Wire Front, One 
for Water, the Other for Oats — Bag of Oats Should Be 
Shipped "with Each Crate — How to Fasten the Tin Cups so 
They Will Always Keep in Place — How to Prevent the 
Expressman from Stifling the Hare. 

A FEW rules are to be carefully followed in shipping Bel- 
gian hares, or trouble will result. 
It is well to remember at the start that the animals 
are likely to pass through the hands of expressmen and 
others who know little or nothing about them. So on the 
shipping tag, or on another tag nearby, in plain sight, write 
or print directions for feeding and watering. 

Of course it is not necessary to use a large hutch in ship- 
ping, nor is it desirable. Use, for single hares, a small box 
or crate which may be procured from any merchant. If it is 
a right-angled box, cover the top with wire netting, and bore 
holes in the top and sides so that when the box is piled with 
other packages in an express car, the animal will not be suffo- 
cated. 

When several hares are shipped together, use one long, nar- 
row box or crate with partitions so as to keep each hare to 
itself. 

The box or crate for use in summer should be lighter and 
more open than that for winter shipment. 

Make the crate as light as possible, bearing in mind that it 
must be strong enough not to "buckle" when boxes and crates 
are piled on top of it. 

On the wire front, at the bottom, easily accessible to the 
hare on the inside, should be securely fastened two tin cups, 
one for water, the other for oats. Oats are all the food neces- 
stary for a hare in shipment, if there is plenty of good hay for 
bedding. One of the tin cups is for oats, the other for water. 
A bag of oats should be shipped with each crate, and the ex- 
pressman directed to feed and water so that the cups will 
have something in them all the time. 

For a tin cup, most shippers use the ordinary, cheap hand 
drinking cup, cutting the handle with a pair of stout shears 
and bending the pieces flat and tacking them to the woodwork 

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of the crate, thus making sure that the cups will be firmly- 
fixed, and always in place. 

If a box or crate with beveled top edges is used, the ex- 
pressman cannot surround it with other boxes so as to shut 
off light and air. 

The crate need not be much larger than the hare, for he will 
not be confined long. 

The card of instructions to the expressman should caution 
him against subjecting the animals to sudden extremes of 
heat and cold. 



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LESSON EIGHTEEN. 

How to Develop a Business 

Advertising Not Always Essential, but a Great Help — EncouiN 
age Correspondence — How to Meet Competition — Prefer- 
ment by Honest Judges in a Public Exhibition a Great 
Card for a Breeder — Book-keeping an Important Part of 
the Business — Methods for Marking Hares — Records 
Should Show Cost of Feed and Care — Money Spent on an 
Attractive Rabbitry and Hutches Usually a Good Invest- 
ment — Need of Showing Signs of Prosperity in Order to 
Convince Inquirers That They Can Make Money by Buy- 
ing of You. 
ADVERTISING is not always essential to the development 
of a business, but it is a great help, and in some sec- 
tions it is absolutely necessary. A very good business 
is sometimes built up, however, by breeders who secure 
such good specimens that their fame is spread by word of 
mouth. 

The advertisement reaches a great many at the same time, 
and if the advertiser's story is intelligently and sensibly told, 
and he has something which is wanted, he is bound to interest 
people and begin to make sales. 

It should be possible for the beginner to write an interesting, 
readable letter about what he has for sale, and encourage cor- 
respondence. 

If the beginner is first in his neighborhood, he will be able 
to make a good many sales, and perhaps reap a great harvest, 
before competition sets in. When competition comes, he 
must remember that his stock and prices are to be judged by 
comparison, and he will be obliged to develop his business 
acumen. 

The best way to get a reputation for handling good stock is 
to send it to an exhibition and there "beat the field." Prefer- 
ment by honest and reliable judges is a great thing for a 
breeder. He will find the buying public turning to him with a 
rush to get stock able to take prizes, and therefore of un-i 
questioned grade. 

Do not neglect the bookkeeping part of your business. Mark 
your hares so you will be able to sort them if they get mixed. 
An easy way of marking is to twist a small piece of Ger- 
man silver wire into one of the ears, close to the edges. You 
may use the right ear for females, the left for males, or vice 
versa, and by placing the wire at a certain portion of either 

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ear, you have a system of marking which may be varied in- 
definitely. 

Another method of marking is to notch the ear. 

Records of breeding should be kept according to the calen- 
dar, so you will know just how your does are coming on. If 
your records are kept as they ought to be, you will not be sur- 
prised by unexpected litters. 

Blanks for recording pedigrees may be purchased of printers 
and filled in with the name of rabbitry. 

Keep adding to your stock from time to time new blood, 
either by the purchase of young bucks, or by service from a 
famous stud. Usually the money spent for service may be 
regarded as a wise investment. A judicious amount of in- 
breeding is not harmful, when the stock is worth it, but it is 
best to go outside for characteristics which your stock lack, 
and which you have tried to get without result. 

Your records ought to show how often you have to buy 
feed, and what you pay for it, and how long it lasts, so you 
can form an intelligent idea of the amount of profit you are 
making. You will be able to save a great deal by a wise 
choice of food. Learn to utilize what grows wild around you, in 
whatever part of the country you may be. 

When you begin to invite buyers to inspect your stock, you 
will find money laid out on a handsome rabbitry to be a good 
investment. Try and have the surroundings as clean and at- 
tractive as possible, for such matters will appeal to a stranger 
strongly. Unless you can make a good profit yourself, in rais- 
ing Belgians, and show signs of having made money, it will 
not be convincing for you to advise others to buy of you in 
order to make money. 



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LESSON NINETEEN. 

Useful Hints 

Do Not Lift a Belgian Hare by the Ears — A Cat Deprived ot 
Kittens Will Suckle /oung Belgians — How to Accustom a 
Cat to Belgians — Dogs Which They Know Are Not to Be 
Feared — Belgians Are Good Swimmers — How to Tell an 
Old Carcass from a Freshly Killed One — They Will De- 
fend Their Young, but Ordinarily Fight Only to Escape — 
Dung Good for the Flower Garden — One Cow Eats as 
Much as Forty Hares — When Bucks and Does Become 
Impotent — Explanations of Killing of the Young — Dura- 
tion of Natural Life — How to Tell an Old Hare from a 
Young One. 

IT IS WELL TO REMEMBER: That a Belgian should not 
be lifted by the ears. 
That their amorous nature is perhaps their strongest 
Characteristic. 

That males are, as a rule, more numerous than females. 

That they fight with their feet, and make the fur fly, but the 
fights of jackrabbits are bloodless. 

That the expression "As mad as a March hare" was coined 
by an observer, who watched them in March, their best mat- 
ing time, when they are playful and full of antics. 

That a cat deprived of her kittens will suckle a young rab- 
bit. 

That a kitten may be taken from its mother and given to a 
nursing doe. Such kittens, as they grow up, become accus- 
tomed to the Belgians and the hutches, live contentedly with 
them and guard against mice. 

That they are susceptible to atmospheric changes, being 
restless and lively before a change of weather. 

That they fraternize with dogs to which they are accus- 
tomed, but shrink from and are afraid of strange dogs. 

That they may be trained to sit up at command and hold a 
small stick in the mouth, beat a tambourine, and perform 
other simple tricks. 

That Cowper's hares, as he wrote about them, are famous 
in literature. 

That the hare is an object of superstition on the Isle of Man. 
It is said there to be the favorite form of a witch. The most 
superstitious Manx people will not eat them, it is said. 

That they are excellent swimmers when forced into the 
water either fresh or salt, but prefer to avoid wetting their 

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fur. 
That they should not be paunched until just before cooking. 
That soaking in water, after killing them, draws out the 
blood, which the epicure wishes to keep in the flesh. 

That they have no molars, or grinding teeth, but only cut- 
ting and gnawing teeth. 

That when fresh killed, their flesh will be stiff, white and 
dry. When stale, it will be limp, and will have a bluish tinge. 

That they may be made thin by a diet of acorns, which are 
rich in potash, lime and phosphoric acid, and are used as an 
astringent in cases of diarrhoea. 

That white spots on the liver signify a tuberculous condition. 

That they will defend their young fiercely, but are not fierce 
ordinarily, and do not retaliate out of vindictiveness, but only 
to escape. 

That constant rearing in hutches has caused their meat 
to lose entirely the rank, savage flavor characteristic of wild 
rabbits. 

That their skins make excellent glue. 

That their dung is good for flowers, particularly vines and 
fibrous-rooted greenhouse plants. 

That it takes forty or fifty hares to eat as much as one cow. 

That they are polygamous, one buck being able and willing 
to attend to thirty does. 

That a buck becomes impotent, as a rule, when five or six 
years old. 

That a doe becomes impotent, as a rule, when five years old. 

That the buck will kill the doe's young when they are blind 
and helpless, if allowed access to her hutch. 

That if the doe is exhausted at the time of littering, and 
feels that she can suckle successfully only a limited number, 
she will kill the remainder. Some breeders claim she kills 
them to allay her thirst. Water should be plentiful at such a 
time. 

That a doe breeding seven times a year and having eight 
young at each littering will find herself at the end of four years 
surrounded by 1,274,840, provided her offspring breed with the 
same frequency. 

That the last remark shows how ridiculous is the contrast 
between figures and facts. 

That the duration of their natural life is said to be from six 
to nine years. 

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That variety of food is essential to the production of the 
finest specimens. 

That blood will tell, and that it is impossible to get points 
which are lacking in both buck and doe. 

That starvation is something to look out for. 

That their voice is seldom heard, but when it is, it is usually 
a weak, plaintive cry. When irritated, the cry becomes pierc- 
ing. 

That in Belgium they are fattened for the market by being 
confined all their days on a shelf a few feet from the ground, 
so narrow that they cannot even turn around. Lacking any 
exercise, and being fed on meat-producing food, they attain 
large size. 

That poplar wood for the floor of the hutches endures the 
urine best. 

That an old one is told by the general solidity and thinness 
of skeleton, especially at the joints, by a fat belly and extra 
length and extra thickness of nails. Sometimes the nails are 
cut by dealers to deceive the purchaser in the matter of age. 



3 S 



LESSON TWENTY. 

Conclusion 

Watch the Market Closely for Points — A Beginner Can Make 
No Better Start Than by Buying Belgians Which Have 
Taken Prizes, or Their Direct Offspring — Many Who Ad- 
vertise as Breeders Are Also JobberSj Buying Animals 
Everywhere to Sell Again, and Frequently Representing 
Them as Their Own Product — Good Belgians Not so Plen- 
tiful as One Would Imagine from Reading the Advertise- 
ments of Breeders — Starting with a Trio the Best and 
Quickest Way for a Beginner to Get Returns — Importance 
of Imported Stock — Shipping Rates from England. 

THE rabbit fancier should watch the state of the market 
closely, and make up his mind to use his own judgment 
and not take sayso of others. He should welcome an 
exhibition, for there, if the judges are competent and 
honest, as they usually are, for no nonsense in judging is tol- 
erated, and desirable animals will be indicated by the dipo' 
sition of prizes. 

The fancier then should make up his mind to get service 
from the prize bucks, or buy the offspring. 

A beginner can make no better stai't than by buying ani- 
mals that have taken prizes, or their offspring. 

Most of the imported animals were bought in England, not 
from the original breeders, but from middlemen, or jobbers. 
The beginner should buy in the best place, where he can get 
the most for his money. Many who advertise as breeders and 
advise beginners to buy only from breeders fill up their owu 
hutches from time to time by purchases outside, and retail the 
animals after having had them in their hutches but a short 
time. Good animals are not so plentiful as one would be led to 
think if he believed the advertisements of breeders. Good 
stock is advancing, and is sure to be appreciated at high fig- 
ures when the exhibitions have weeded out "scrubs" for which 
absurd claims now are made. 

Starting with a trio of hares is probably the best and quick- 
est way to get returns without a long wait. A trio usually 
is made up of two does and a buck, and before shipping, the 
seller usually breeds the does to different bucks that are not 
related, so in a month the purchaser will have two litters, and 
with his own buck to draw on for service when needed, he is 
in a position to make quick sales. 

The idea of having imported stock is worth something. It 
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increases the value of the young when you get some for sale. 
Shipments are usually made from London or Liverpool. The 
steamship company's rate to New York is 24 cents per cubic 
foot in United States gold coin. The steward's fee for taking crae 
of hares while in transit is usually $1..50 per hutch, providing 
that the hutch does not contain more than fifteen hares. The 
shipper also is compelled to pay the cost of feed at about 
twice its value. 



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Jar - Bn ipoj 



jAN 22 1901 



